Redding s type dies

[Swarovski1]

I was setting up my 284 dies the other evening and with the seater instructions I suggests keeping a gap between the sleeve and the shell holder.forster said back the die out one full turn.i backed mine out 3/4 of a turn.what do you all do.also the instructions are not very clear to me to zero micrometer.may someone could explain how.

Also redding suggests using there shell holder.apart from selling aspect what difference would there be from rcbs one I've had for years.

Atb swaro

[The Gun Pimp]

Setting up your sizer-die should be done with reference to YOUR rifle's chamber. Ideally, you want to re-size your brass so it 'just' fits the chamber.

 

If you shorten it too much, the case will stretch on firing and you'll get case-head separation after a few firings.

 

If you under-size it, you'll have to use excessive force to close the bolt.

 

How to do it? Strip the bolt and just use the bolt-body - without the spring. When you close the bolt on a correctly sized (empty) case, you should 'just' feel the bolt lightly kiss the case as the bolt closes.

 

Any shell-holder will be OK but always use the same one - they do vary.

[Swarovski1]

As I've no 284 yet this is not possible.

The 284 will have a tight neck .315

Spud supplied the brass.expanded.turned them and resized them for me to get me up and running.since then ive got my own turning kit. (K&m).with my recent die problems I thought it would be best.

He is way more experienced in reloading than I am.i can do as you say regarding the bolt after first firing.

I have seen videos on YouTube where one said to cam over the sleeve slightly . this too was redding dies he was using.

I am trying to ask the correct questions ready to implement the answers.too many people are ready to criticise some of my threads.i am just trying to learn and don't know it all like some.there is certain people on ukv I ask advice from and not the ones who think they know it all.

[The Gun Pimp]

OK - more than likely, the new brass will be 'short' in your chamber so, when they've had one firing, set up your dies to re-size them to just fit your chamber.

 

Yup - I know you're just trying to learn and it is hard when you've only got You Tube and forums to turn to. Membership of a club with experienced shooters is usually the best way to learn. Nothing in the Bath area.

[1967spud]

as GP says or bell me still waiting ....

[andybrock]

If its your FL die your setting do it like GP says.

 

If I remember correctly to set your seater, just raise the ram to its highest, screw the die down until it wont go any further against the shell holder (this will force the sleeve back in the die against the spring) then turn it back (anticlockwise) until the graduations on the die are at the front facing you.

 

Again if I remember correctly to zero the micrometer top you set it to roughly center on the graduation with 0 lined up on the scale. You then insert an allen key in the top of the die, while keeping the 0 zeroed you turn the allen key until you get your chosen seating depth. You can then adjust the bullet depth in and out but return to your set zero.

 

Unless your loading a lot of different types of bullet micrometer tops are expensive and not really necessary.

[Swarovski1]

Thanks Andy, helpful as usual, cheers swaro

[Swarovski1]

I just read on accurate shooter that you can change the expander ball innit for a calibre specific expander ball that free floats, is this what I do or resize with the expander ball it came with, there was a black looking thing in the die set that maybe this cal specific ball, I will ask my stalker, he wont be far away lol

[andybrock]

If your neck turning your brass just use the black thing, all this does is it just holds the decapping pin in place (try it first, it should just drop through the case neck) then you'll use a bushing in the die to achieve whatever neck tension you require.

[Swarovski1]

Na wanna fl size.expander ball innit measures .282 so not much neck tension by time the brass springs back a little.i adjusted seating die.approx one whole turn back out.i zeroed the micrometer to get the feel for it.will do again when I start seating the bullets.cheers Andy

[andybrock]

Na wanna fl size.expander ball innit measures .282 so not much neck tension by time the brass springs back a little.i adjusted seating die.approx one whole turn back out.i zeroed the micrometer to get the feel for it.will do again when I start seating the bullets.cheers Andy

Your die will FL resize the brass without the expander ball!!

Gun Pimp wrote a good explanation for someone a few weeks ago about the relationship between expander balls and bushings if he reads this he might put a link to it for you.

[Swarovski1]

Hi Andy.

yes ive have read and been told about this method recently, why is the expander ball on the stem when it doesnt really need to be i wonder apart from reshaping buckled necks on there way through.

[andybrock]

I'm guessing the expander ball is there because the majority of reloaders who hunt will use SAMMI spec chambers don't worry too much about neck tension etc and also die manufactures have to make dies that will work brass to fit every gun manufactures chambers.

Don't get me wrong your die will work fine with the expander ball in, but if you've got a tight neck chamber FL resizing will go much smoother without it and it doesn't work your brass as much. Without it you will also be able to control your neck tension easier.

[Swarovski1]

Sounds good to me.i won't use the expander ball to straiten out of shape necks anymore.will get expander die and correct mandrel.