Finman Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Hi Folks, Please rest assured first and foremost that I am not asking for another slagging match about which is best etc. I have had an experience with my beloved T8, which allows me to shoot both my 6mmBR and my .204Ruger without hearing protection, very effectivelly. I keep a record for every single shot that passes these barrels, so that I know when to start looking for losses in accuracy. Everytime that I come home from the field (being range or varminting or stalking) I clean the moderator whether I shot the rifle or not (following the Jackson Rifles instruction sheet, by spraying a liberal amount of WD40 in the appertures). Last week, after 1213 shots, two little holes were blasted in the moderator, at the lower third of the casing, the bit that goes over the barrel (i.e. not the bit that contains the baffles). The holes were external. I sent the moderator back and had a new one in less than a week for a fraction of the price, were I to buy it new for the first time, so I am impressed with the service. My question is: how many rounds have you had through your T8 before it corroded through? Best wishes, Finman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wsm Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Interesting question that Finman I think the answer to that is with a Reflex you either get a good one or a bad one. I`ve personally had one that lasted for about 200 rounds before being sent back but on the other hand have got two at the moment that have probably had near 1000 rounds a piece down them and don`t show any signs of wear as of yet As you say the good thing about them is the excellent replacement service that Mr Jackson provides if you do have a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Arguably, the rolls royce of moderators is the Brugger & Thomet - it is used by most specialist military units across europe where "silence is golden" I recently tested a B&T sniper rifle system for a magazine - it came with moderator. When I looked at the spec sheet for the rifle from the manufacturer, the estimated life of the mod was 5000 rounds. Now I would expect lighter built mods to be a bit less. I'll put my head below the parapet and bugle the last post now shall I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 No handbags needed for that, they are a consumable like a barrel really. If they were made to last for thousands of rounds they would be unacceptably heavy and every one would complain about it. I would recommend a decent light gun oil rather than WD40 which is mostly silicon oil not mineral oil, its good for water displacement but doesnt prevent the sort of corrosion caused by powder residue. I had one that is a few years old now, it gets a puff of ( steady Vim ) browning gun oil each time and a flush out with paraffin every so often, seems to be still ok, now its on a friends 223 and still going, but it will pinhole eventually. Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vermincinerator Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Finman, What you need to remember is that there many overiding factors governing the rate of corrosion which we cannot possibly have control over. You could liken it to a tyre, use it hard and fast and it will wear quickly, treat it with respect and hope for a good lifespan. On the other hand only use it occasionally and it will perish before it wears out. Treating your mod with a good care and cleaning regime is about the best you can do to ensure a reasonable working life but it wont guarantee it. Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 No handbags needed for that, they are a consumable like a barrel really. If they were made to last for thousands of rounds they would be unacceptably heavy and every one would complain about it.I would recommend a decent light gun oil rather than WD40 which is mostly silicon oil not mineral oil, its good for water displacement but doesnt prevent the sort of corrosion caused by powder residue. I had one that is a few years old now, it gets a puff of ( steady Vim ) browning gun oil each time and a flush out with paraffin every so often, seems to be still ok, now its on a friends 223 and still going, but it will pinhole eventually. Redfox Redfox, a bit off the topic are you sure about wd40 containing silicon oil? That would be a disaster for all car part suppliers as they would be shut down if a can where seen on the premises. I'm asking because wd40 promises that they never have and never will use silicon oil. We even check our staffs hand creams if they contain silicone. edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 308Panther Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Along with other things WD 40 is mainly made from Stoddard solvent, fish oil, and I believe graphite.. Personally I prefer Zep 45 or Zep Triflow,or CRC 556 over WD 40 308Panther Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Pat, it was often mentioned that wd40 contains silicon and I think for that reason they printed on the can that it doesn't. I always found soapy hot water and maybe ultrasonic cleaned the moderators very well. Sometimes flushed with aceton to get the water out before wd40. Just a bugger to get all liquid out of some moderators. I'm thinking of putting a tiny drain into one. edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest varmartin Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 From what I have been told..WD40 breaks down over a period of time and become ` Hygroscopic` ie ` absorbs moister ` As I work for the largest Breakdown company in the business, I am sure they did there homework. We now only use `Duck oil` to treat damp ignition systems and to repel moister from electrical circuits. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 308Panther Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 WD 40 will/does break down after a period of time. It also will develop into a crusty like build up on polished metal over a period of time.A new application of it seems to remove the crusty build up,tho. But it will/does come back. I have had better luck with the other products I mentioned. Tho they may not be the most enviromentelly friendly....They work. I think they are also a better lubricating product than WD 40. WD 40 does work well as a Water Displacer,in fact thats what the WD stands for... I cant find anything on whether it contains silicon. Main ingredients, from the material safety data sheet, are: 50%: Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits, somewhat similar to, but not the same as, kerosene) 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant, carbon dioxide is used now to reduce considerable flammability) 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-%: Inert ingredients The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety relevant ingredients:60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated 1-5%: Carbon dioxide Edi, Is there something to silicone that is a no - no? 308Panther Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 WD40 is ok just shoot daily Just looked at my can of wd it has a sign on it saying silcone free since invented 50 years ago. Pat, the problem is if you manufacture anything that gets close to paint baths. The automotive industrie is hyper sensitive and say that if a silicone contaminated part gets into the the bath it could mean that that bath is useless and could be closed for good. For example we would also make the plastic bits for lock nuts. These nuts are welded onto the chasis and go into the bath. The silicone free rule applies for any part going into a car. (don't know if it applies to silicon glues) edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finman Posted December 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Guys, how did the thread go from how many rounds does it take for a T8 or similar reflex moderator to corrode to the chemical properties of WD40? I remember once seeing a website (surprise surprise: www.wd40.com) that outlined all its applications and it run for pages and pages. This notwithstanding, and recognising that WD40 is the gun enthusiast's crumpet, and me using it in quantities that made my wife think that I am drinking it, my moderator still got corroded through. Perhaps for the benefit for others who may seek information to allow them to make an informed choice (or smell a rat in the performance of their moderator), it may be useful to go down to numbers and conduct a survey of sorts (sorry it is my research background, can't help it!), meaning that everyone that ever had a moderator pinhole lets the rest of us know how many rounds they put through it and the time it took them to do so, as it is rather irrelevant to say 'I've had mine for years and have had no problems with it' as it may have seen 100 rounds through it. Here's my submission: 1213 in 2 years. Incidentally, and being also guilty of following the WD40 thread, does anyone take any special precautions when, for example, they come in from a wet outing and use WD40 on their gun, not to spray any on the wooden parts? I sometimes do and sometimes don't but I am worried now and then that the liquid may soak into the wood grain or even the bedding and soften it or worse loosen it. Perhaps I should start another thread... Finman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 308Panther Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 WD40 is ok just shoot daily Just looked at my can of wd it has a sign on it saying silcone free since invented 50 years ago. Pat, the problem is if you manufacture anything that gets close to paint baths. The automotive industrie is hyper sensitive and say that if a silicone contaminated part gets into the the bath it could mean that that bath is useless and could be closed for good. For example we would also make the plastic bits for lock nuts. These nuts are welded onto the chasis and go into the bath. The silicone free rule applies for any part going into a car. (don't know if it applies to silicon glues) edi Edi, I got it now.... Yeah,I see your point....then the same can be said for Teflon as well too? Both the Zep products I mentioned earlier are Teflon based protectents/lubricants. Might be on the dont touch list for ya also. 308Panther Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 WD40 I stand corrected it is mostly hydrocarbon in as much as paraffin / P wax, still not the best anticorrosion medium and it does become hygroscopic with age which was known donkeys years ago as Martin mentions it fixes ht leads this week and a week or two later actually causes the shorting due to moisture ( nice little earner, more and more tins of Wd40 ) I use gun oil as it is designed to not turn to varnish with heat and the paraffin just flushes powder residue and old oil out befor re-oiling. I also like the Contect Duck Oil and find it better than WD. Silicon molecules are very small and will bind to many other molecules permanently, like the glass in your car windows and there is no known method to remove it afterwards, so keep clear of these "windscreen clear" preparations and the "no need to polish your car for years" ones, the only fix is a new screen!! All good stuff though and if you give it a good clean and oil up most mods will give a pretty good life, mine has certainly had over 1k rounds through between us. Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Got about 600 rounds through my T8 over about 4 years, no problems at all, yet?. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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