Primer Pocket Cleaning

[Finman]

Hi all,

 

taking the incentive from F2N's excellent posting in reloading, and noticing the comment 'clean primer pockets', I'd like to ask what methods do members here use to clean the primer pocket?

 

I understand that those who use either stainless steel media or ultrasonic cleaning may not need to do this, but for the rest of us mortals who use the good old lyman with corncob media, we are left with a primer that still has some soot.

 

Now, in the past I used a little tool, which looked like a 2-inch screwdriver with a blade fitting the small primer pocket on one end and a blad fitting the large primer pocket on the other to 'scrape' some of that soot off, but the results left a lot to be desired (or so I thought anyway...).

 

I then had a brainwave (???) and started using the primer pocket uniformer to clean pockets after tumbling. That got me really clean pockets, but i am not sure whether the continuous use of the tool will shorten the case life.

 

So, the question is: how clean do we need to have the primer pocket prior to reloading? and, what is the best method to achieve this with hand-held (or electric drill held) tools?

 

best wishes,

 

Finman

[TonyH]

Finman, I think you'll find many people just use a primer-pocket uniformer (lightly) to clean residue from pockets - I certainly do, in conjunction with those short stubby steel brush tools sold by RCBS. Very effective though my ultrasonic cleaner is, it does not remove all the residue from pockets! I don't see why repeated use of a uniformer (I have the K&M) should reduce case life, since it cannot cut deeper than intended - one has to be careful to use it square, I think, and I prefer to do this job by hand (the K&M has an excellent handle) rather than under power.

HTH - Tony

[Finman]

thanks for the quick response TonyH! This was my thinking as well (i.e. that the uniformer won't harm the case), but I have never seen it being mentioned anywhere or have heard anyone else discuss the issue.

 

it'll be useful to see whether we are the only two folks who do this, or it is more common than I thought!

 

 

best wishes,

 

Finman

[The_Dogge]

The only advice I've seen against using the uniformer is that the residue blunts it and it will reduce the life of the uniforming tool.

 

I just use the lee tool, which is like a correctly fitting screwdriver blade, gets them as clean as I think they have any need to be in one back and forth twist, and costs virtually nothing.

[1967spud]

k&m for me as well then stainless media cleaned to make doubly sure and to get in to all the tight spots

[6.5shooter]

+1 aswell

[Finman]

Well, glad to see everyone sitting on the fence with this one

Cheers fellas, good to have one's practice reaffirmed!

 

best wishes,

 

Finman

[fizzbangwhallop]

K&M for me too, although I have started using the airgun on the compressor which seems to blow a lot of it out, more so if I've just annealed and quenched some once-fired cases and using the air to blow the excess water out of the cases.

 

atb

FBW

[1967spud]

K&M for me too, although I have started using the airgun on the compressor which seems to blow a lot of it out, more so if I've just annealed and quenched some once-fired cases and using the air to blow the excess water out of the cases.

 

atb

FBW

 

you would be better to clean the cases before annealing as you will get better result indication

[forbie]

get a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and use sea green i think its called spotless inside and out pockets as well.