skany Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Hi guys loaded up some .308 in lapua brass yesterday i was compleatly out & i had a batch of 50cases on its 3rd firing & a batch on its 5th I neck sized em all at the same time Now when i came to push the heads in I could tell it was alot easyer with the 5th fired cases wich im guessin is due to the more work hardened brass having more spring back??? so i guess its time to think about anealing maybe ive read a few simple ways of doing it & wonder what you guys do! ive no intrest in buying a expensive gadget to do this so whts a cost efective way to do this or should i just A.... catch up with the 3rd fired brass (to 5 firings) & as long it shoots drive on! B..... have a go at anealing C..... think about new brass intrested to hear wht u guys do cheers Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarinePMI Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Time to anneal. I use the "bowl in a bowl" method with a propane torch. A small bowl inverted upside down in a larger bowl, with water added to bring it above the top of the smaller bowl. The case is set on top of the smaller bowl, with water covering the case head (about 2/3 up). Heat the case neck to a dull cherry red color (best if doen in a dim/dark room). Once color is reached, flick it to the side into the water. Dry cases and resize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxshooter Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Saw this tonight and am considering speculating a little cash http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/14054/s Works out at about £35 plus postage from the US Quote from sinclair article I decided to anneal 50 pieces of Nosler Custom .308 cases with four firings on the odometer, and re-anneal after every two firings for the duration of this year’s shooting season. At the end of the year, I will compare with the 50 non-annealed sister cases, it should be interesting. I will keep you all posted on the results! So…Let’s get started! First, you want to start with clean de-primed cases. Last thing you need is a rogue live primer subjected to the effects of a propane torch. (remember Murphy’s Law). Also, with the primers removed, when the hot annealed brass is dropped into our cold water it will circulate through the flash hole and primer pocket for better cooling. Next, if your cases are dirty, drop them in a tumbler for thirty minutes or polish with Flitz or some sort of brass polish. You want the necks to be nice and shiny, so it is easier to see them change color during annealing. Brush out the inside of the case necks and you are ready to apply the Tempilaq paint. You need to put an 1/8” mark of Tempilaq on the case body ¼” below the shoulder. After marking all cases, set them in a loading block and allow them to dry for 3 to 4 min. Next, pick the correct case holder for your brass and install into your screw driver or variable drill set at 200 rpm. If your work area has a vise, place the torch into and snug it up just enough to keep it from tipping over (again remember Mr. Murphy!). Ok, fire up your torch and adjust to produce a medium length light blue flame. With your water bucket close by, insert a case in to the holder and begin spinning. Center the spinning case neck in the middle of the flame observing the Tempilaq marking and the case neck. In roughly 6 to 8 seconds the paste will change color and the case neck will start to glow a dull maroon color. When you see that maroon color change, quickly tip your drill or screw driver over your container, and drop the annealed case into the water. Load up another case and repeat the process until you have finished all of the cases. One Quick Tip: by dimming or lowering the light in your work area, it will help you to see the maroon color change during heating on the case necks much easier. The whole procedure, start to finish for 50 pieces of brass took fifteen minutes. After cooling you can towel dry and air dry. After the cases are dry you can pop your brass into your tumbler for thirty minutes to remove any heat scale from the annealing. There you have it… Fifty annealed cartridge cases ready for reloading. Was the task at hand difficult? Not at all. Was it worth while? Yes, I feel it was. The Hornady Case Neck Annealing Kit is an inexpensive way to give new life to some old brass, and I feel the Kit is a lot of bang for the buck. So, if you have some tired brass needing a jump start, I would recommend giving the Hornady Annealing Kit a shot I wonder if it is possible to source the Tempilaq elsewhere as I guess a couple of holders could be made without too much hassle Mark Group buy anyone..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxshooter Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Ooh look here http://www.industrial-markers.co.uk/prodMa...Q&br=14_118 2oz TL475F £10.99 +VAT 2oz Thinners TQLT £4.99 +VAT Net Total £15.98 Carriage £1.99 VAT £3.14 Order Total £21.11 Where can we find some sort of suitable case holders...... I'll contact them tomorrow and see if there is any sort of discount for a quantity purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elwood Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Mark, Tempilaq can be sourced in the UK, it's where I got mine from. The 475F worked well but when I tried 650F and 750F (on the case necks) it didn't work, so I sent them back. The 450F turned from a white paste to a clear liquid on hitting the desired heat, it does need to be wiped pretty damned quick, otherwise it's a pain to remove. All in all it worked quite well spinning the cases in a cordless screw driver until the brass turned blue ish. If you get the brass cheery red then you have knackered the brass. There's no reason to quench the brass in water other than to not burn yourself. A friend has developed some kind of coil heat induction thingamabob, which really simplifies the process, I'm seeing him this weekend, I will ask how he's getting on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 A friend has developed some kind of coil heat induction thingamabob, which really simplifies the process, I'm seeing him this weekend, I will ask how he's getting on. Sounds interesting Ian, would love to hear more please. How is the Ken Light machine performing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Tempilaq is available from Tim Hannams in the correct temp range. As you know, i made a machine to do mine. Tempilaq isn,t necessary with practise, neither is water. Definatly worth doing.The difference is amazing on group size. It also removes vertical stringing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skany Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Cheers ladds I watched the ammosmith vid on youtube & it looks straight forward so ill do that i think! Ill fire off wht i made up the other day & then go thru the lot! cheers Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxshooter Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Definatly worth doing.The difference is amazing on group size. It also removes vertical stringing. I've been experiencing vertical stringing but thought it was an ignition issue. Perhaps I'll have a go and anneal the brass and see if it goes away or at least reduces. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 I have an interal stepped gauge, this has steps of .0005 to measure ID after neck sizing, I also have a series of smaller neck bushings so if I have a loose one I resize with the next bush down. I get about 1 in 6 needing further resizing after initial neck sizing. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skany Posted March 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 well i just anealed 50 lapua brass wht a peice of piss had a few practice runs with some cheap arse factory brass & went for it! followed amosmiths instructions using a drill see here (altho i used a lee case holder) now to trim em size em & shoot em cheers Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Unfortunately Elwood your not right on the water, for one the fast cooling does help with the annealing process, but also it freezes the process at that moment, if not the heat travels rapidly down the case softening it exactly where you dont want to. I'm not guessing either I have been involved with this process most of my life. Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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