Cleaning advice (TAC A1)

[Richie88]

Evening all

I’m 2 months into owning a brand new TIKKA TAC A1. I’ve been cleaning after each use BUT I feel as though I should be doing something else in my cleaning routine:

 

SHOOT!

Straight home to clean

1) Run several dry patches through the barrel with bore guide using Tipton carbon rod

2) Onto Tetra Gun copper remover, one/two patches pushed through wet

3) New bronze brush to agitate

4) Push 10+ dry patches through 

5) One/two patches of Parker Hale 009

6) Push 10+ dry patches through barrel 
 

7) One slightly wet patch of 009 to lubricate the barrel when stored 
 

8) Long stock cotton bud with a bit of 009 on to clean around crown and inside muzzle brake 

9) Copper remover on cotton bud in and around the bore to remove copper fouling

10) General wipe over rifle

 

How does this cleaning routine compare to others? Should I be doing more or using alternate solvents? I’ve been recommend ‘Bore Tech’

 

Cheers

Richie

 

[Pat Allen]

1 hour ago, Richie88 said:

Evening all

I’m 2 months into owning a brand new TIKKA TAC A1. I’ve been cleaning after each use BUT I feel as though I should be doing something else in my cleaning routine:

 

SHOOT!

Straight home to clean

1) Run several dry patches through the barrel with bore guide using Tipton carbon rod

2) Onto Tetra Gun copper remover, one/two patches pushed through wet

3) New bronze brush to agitate

4) Push 10+ dry patches through 

5) One/two patches of Parker Hale 009

6) Push 10+ dry patches through barrel 
 

7) One slightly wet patch of 009 to lubricate the barrel when stored 
 

😎 Long stock cotton bud with a bit of 009 on to clean around crown and inside muzzle brake 

9) Copper remover on cotton bud in and around the bore to remove copper fouling

10) General wipe over rifle

 

How does this cleaning routine compare to others? Should I be doing more or using alternate solvents? I’ve been recommend ‘Bore Tech’

 

Cheers

Richie

 

I have the same rifle and you have to be spot in to keep it clean and the finish is prone to rusting. I cover mine now with silicone spray. As for barrel chamber cleaning I would recommend boretec eliminator as it not only removes copper but carbon which is worse in some cases. I now run wet patches and a nylon brush ( not bronze ) and keep going till no residue is apparent on patches. That seems to work for me and using a borescope shows me it’s getting rid of the carbon build up. Many would say different but it’s all personal choice but I don’t use any ammonia based cleaners now. 

[Popsbengo]

There's far better products than 009 which has been around since Adam was a lad.  Your cleaning is (if I may say) backwards - get the powder and carbon fouling out before any attempt to remove copper (some cleaners do both)

My regime:

One patch soaked in powder residue/carbon cleaner (I use Wipe-Out Tactical Advantage) to push out the loose stuff (no point swilling it about with the brush).  Nice slow pass through.

Nylon brush with 6 or 7 passes soaked in powder residue/carbon cleaner.  I'd only use a bronze brush for one or two passes if there's some stubborn carbon (maybe once every 300 rounds - maybe, don't do it routinely).

Leave to work for 10 - 20 mins.   It's a chemical reaction, give it time.  A bit longer if it's cold. b Read the instructions 😁

Patch out with clean dry cotton until clean (about 4 patches).

One oiled patch followed by one dry patch.  This leaves just a smear of oil in the bore.

Job done.

Occasionally I may do a copper removal if required with Boretech copper remover or similar. Nylon brush.  Don't use a bronze brush, it will give you false readings and anyway it's too aggressive.  Again, allow time for the chemical reaction.

Dry, oil and patch out dry (I patch out again before firing to ensure a minimum of oil in the bore).  If the rifle is to stand for an extended period I'd leave a bit more oil in the bore (but not so much as it drains back down and makes a mess)

Some copper removal fluids will knacker the lens coatings up on your scope - keep them covered.

[Richie88]

Gentlemen thanks for the comprehensive replies. Very useful indeed! I’ve heard so many conflicting things online and after purchasing my rifle have been told conflicting things locally too! 

[Catch-22]

Ditch the Tetra...it’s awful stuff that will increase the likihood of rusting!

For rust prevention and storage, look at either CorrosionX or Eezox. Both are excellent and numerous independent tests against many others (incl Tetra) prove the aforementioned are superior. I like CorosionX as its mostly all natural.

https://youtu.be/uOB5eCReAQY

https://youtu.be/6Ntnd9kkv1M

 

[Catch-22]

And another thing, don’t leave the brake on the muzzle when going into storage. Leaving it on will corrode your crown because there’s no way you can get it clean with a qtip poked down the end.

Strip it off the muzzle, clean the carbon on the crown and threads...same for the brake. Deep clean the brake every once and a while in your ultrasonic cleaner (if you have one) or use some brake cleaner.

Before going out shooting, apply a smear of good moly grease or anti-seize grease to the muzzle threads before screwing the brake back on.

[VarmLR]

I have the same rifle.  Zero rust anywhere.  I just don't understand how others have issues....I have seen other chassis rifles (no names)  corrode and whose finish is appalling but the TAC A1, as with my other Tikka rifle, is as good as the day I bought it.  I run KG1 through and leave in 20 minutes before patching out, followed by Wipeout Tactical Advantage, then wipe the rifle with an oily rag after doing the chamber cleaning and bolt cleaning/lube.  It gets stored for weeks at a time and is still pristine.

[Popsbengo]

16 minutes ago, VarmLR said:

I have the same rifle.  Zero rust anywhere.  I just don't understand how others have issues....I have seen other chassis rifles (no names)  corrode and whose finish is appalling but the TAC A1, as with my other Tikka rifle, is as good as the day I bought it

I agree and I too have no problem on any rifle but I have a buddy who seems to have endless issues with rust spots etc.  His cabinet is in a centrally heated house, like mine, not subject to sudden cooling causing condensation, away from kitchen/bathroom moist air.

He uses good products to clean...  is it the damp demons 👺??

 

[Richie88]

Afternoon all

 

I bit the bullet and bought Bore Tech Eliminator. Any experiences with that? I posted on another Facebook group and received 8/10 replies recommending this! 

[Pat Allen]

46 minutes ago, Richie88 said:

Afternoon all

 

I bit the bullet and bought Bore Tech Eliminator. Any experiences with that? I posted on another Facebook group and received 8/10 replies recommending this! 

Yes it works well no issues with it . 

[Richie88]

1 minute ago, Pat Allen said:

Yes it works well no issues with it . 

Cheers Pat.

I’ve picked up some Bore Tech Friction Guard XP oil too. Is there anything else you use for cleaning? 

[CerebralDistortion]

Just to offer a different perspective...

Shoot then go home.

4-5 patches wet with Ed's red. A 5-10 minute pause between patch two and three.

2 dry patches and one final with Ed's for corrosion protection, not as wet as the first five.

Sweets 7.62 every thousand rounds or if/when the dry patches don't run smooth and even through the bore.

Not on a Tikka, but on a couple of Sakos and Sauers.