What modifications to go for??

[Oly]

I presently have a stock Rem 700 VLS in .243Win and am thinking about having some 'work' done to it. The million dollar question is what, and how much, to have done!!

 

I have known since before I bought the gun that, although the trigger is OK (good by many Remington standards!), I want a two stage trigger putting in - so hopefully a Jackson CG Universal trigger should do the job.

 

However, it also got me thinking that whilst it's in the shop for the new trigger, do I get some other work done to it. Funds unfortunately are not limitless at this time so blueprinting, rebarrelling etc are out of the question at present.

 

I am currently thinking that recrowning/shortening/screwcutting (& proofing) may be on the list - and possibly some type of bedding work (price dependant) - but other suggestions (with an idea of price next to each suggestion) would be greatly appreciated.

 

Also - what length to shorten the barrel to? I don't want to compromise accuracy, and am only toying with this idea at present - but your thoughts/knowledge/experience would be greatly appreciated.

[Ronin]

CG Trigger is around £180 - £200, but there is some fitting involved as its a bit wider and longer than the standard unit - simple job, but takes time, the standard inlet needs opening up in the mill thats all.

 

 

Re -crown =, I would expect that to be about £30 - to £50

 

Screw Cut - expect £40 - £70 dependant where you go.

 

Invisible cap - about £30 - £50 dependant where you go.

 

Bedding - £150 - £300 dependant on where you go.

 

 

These prices are gleaned from the various gunsmith sites in the UK that advertise their tarrifs by the way.

 

 

How short you reduce the barrel, well dependant on moderator type - if its a reflex style, you dont want it so short the can interfers with the stok when its on.

 

Neither do you want to affect MV.

 

 

I would have it around 24" personaly.

 

Hope that helps.

[Oly]

Thanks for that Ronin.

 

What thread should I go for on the screw cut? Do most mods now have the same thread? If I was to go down the mod route I would be probably be looking at either an ATEC for a Jet Z - any ideas on good prices for these at present? Like I say, I'm undecided about going down the mod route as yet, but at least if it's threaded I have that option at some point.

 

Also, how much does proofing cost - or is that included in the price?

[Ronin]

Proofing is extra (IF) you have it done as there is "discussion" over whether it is needed for a screw cut barrel or not...

 

 

 

Proof is bettween £50 - £100 again depends on which company you have the work done with.

 

 

Threads, I would suggest the largest thread possible for the diameter of the muzzle.

 

Some well used thread sizes: 1/2" UNF, 1/2" UNEF, 5/8ths UNF, 14 x 1mm, 14 x 1.5mm, 18 x 1mm, 18 x 1.5mm.

 

Cannot comment on moddy prices really other than say you can pay bettween £180 to £300 dependant on type - buy what you like, they all do the same job --- usually pretty well.

[Oly]

Thanks Ronin.

 

Spoke to the riflesmith this morning and he said he normally does it all whilst you wait - so I think I will just have the trigger done for now as he's only down the road. Hopefully that way it should be a little less painful on the wallet and if the trigger settles the gun (and me!) down on it's own I will have saved a few quid...and I'm still undecided on mod or not!!!

[Guest varmartin]

Oly...the most cost affective job you can do on your VLS is to free float the tube...emphasis on the word free....as it will cost you nothing.

 

I have the exact same basic rifle as you ( now heavily modified ).

 

When you remove the action from the stock you will notice a pressure bedding point 2 inches from the end of the barrel channel.

 

Remove this completely to float the tube. Find a steel bar and roll some glass paper round it and work it in the channel to open it up. You can re seal the bare wood after with wax or lacquer ,the accuracy of my rifle was improved two fold ie, smaller group size but more importantly consistency was improved.

 

Especially off a bi pod..

 

Note.... if it does not work ( as in a small number cases ) it is a piece of cake to replicate.

[Andrew]

God. I hate always being the one to bring up this question but: How does the rifle shoot now? and what performance increase do you expect? ~Andrew

[Guest varmartin]

Yep...forgot to ask the important question....Andrews right,

[Oly]

Thanks for that Martin - your a star!

 

Would be interested to hear what you have done with yours and where it is now accuracy wise.

 

Also, (question to all) how much of a difference does re-crowning make to a stock barrel?

[Oly]

Andrew - the rifle is shooting OK now, but it does seem to be a little tempermental. It can shoot a cloverleaf and then have two fliers Although conditions I'm using in aren't great (it's always windy!!) I don't know whether to put it down to bedding, the trigger, or me!

[Guest varmartin]

Oly...some info on mine.

 

Before any mods.

 

I mainly shot 105Amax and 87Vmax average of 0.75 MOA.

 

Sent the rifle off to Russell Gall ( RG Custom Rifles ).

It now has a Kreiger 6mmBR 1-8 twist tight neck tube, Action has been trued and a PT&G bolt with a tubb speedlock pin assembly installed. Single shot follower bonded into the action.

I installed a Jewell HV trigger and epoxy bonded/bedded the scope mounts to the action.

 

 

It looks like this now without the painted barrel, and shoots well in the stock too.

 

This group was shot at 561 yards ( odd range but that is what it pinged at.)

 

Here are some groups load testing with a 75Vmax which it loves...best load...33.5 grns R15 0.010" off the lands.

 

95 bergers...NOTE...I have had a muzzle brake made by Silentsoles and this rifle shoots even tighter groups with it fitted.

[Oly]

Nice, particularly like it at stage 2! Thanks for the info Martin, good to see what can be done.

 

With the stock 9 1/8 twist how did you find it with the lighter (down to 55gn) rounds?

[Guest varmartin]

I agree , it is very attractive at stage two....but it shoots best at stage three

 

It shot every thing I loaded accept 107match kings ...they would not stabilize at all.

 

58 vmax made a mess off quite a few bunny`s could not find most of them....just an ear and a foot most the time.

 

87 Vmax were awesome at range....but saying that , my longest shot to date was with a 58 vmax @642 yards on a bunny, and a **x @540 yards with a 95 Berger VLD.

[Oly]

Thanks Varmartin - muchly appreciated.

[mildot]

Hi

 

Re the re-crown! it can make a vast improvement. i have a .22-250 and a 7mm remmy. both were prity poor shooters from new particulary the .22-250 which would shoot 3-4" at 100yards! after a recrown and a decent stock it would shoot 3/4" and after a bit of reloading it clover leafs at 100yrds.

 

 

admitedly they are the sps's which are the bottom of the ladder.

[Oly]

Thanks for that Mildot - good to hear actual examples of experience. Like I said before, I think it's on the provisional list, but I'll see what a difference this new trigger and properly floating the rifle will make first - then if I'm still having issues take it back for a re-crown.

[Oly]

Martin - do you have any good load data for 75gn bullet heads using your old 9 1/8 twist barrel? Also what distance to the lands did you used to use?

[Guest varmartin]

Oly..not sure if you have done it yet, but its a good idea to use an old or once fired unsized case and run a dremel down the neck and just into the shoulder to create a split.

 

Clean up the cut and squeeze the neck to hold you chosen bullet.

 

Then carefully chamber a dummy round and hold the case with a finger tip when extracting .

 

Measure your over all length and note the figure , do this a few times for an average...this is your C.O.A.L

 

Some rounds will shoot there best at SAMMI( factory ) length...some 0.010 to 0.020 off the lands you will nead to experement.

 

Try SAMMI first...you may be surprised at the results. !!!

[Oly]

Thanks Martin, but yep - way down that route already! I was just interested what your best loads etc were. At the moment my best is 0.040 of the lands.

[Oly]

Well, yesterday I got the Jackson two stage trigger done, the bolt worked, the chamber worked and the barrel fully floated - VERY happy!

[Guest northernchris]

Sounds good Oly what did you actually get done to your stick???

[Oly]

Sounds good Oly what did you actually get done to your stick???

 

Well, yesterday I got the Jackson two stage trigger done, the bolt worked, the chamber worked and the barrel fully floated - VERY happy!

 

The Jackson replaced the standard Remington trigger (albeit professionally lightened & crispened previously), the bolt was taken apart, cleaned, polished, re-oiled and re-greased (smooth as ice now!), the chamber polished and the stock's pressure points taken out.

 

The Jackson, being a universal trigger, isn't quite the drop it could be - so instead of an hour for the above work (and a bit of banter ) it took nearer 4 hours for all the inletting etc!

[Oly]

Just thinking...I decided on the Jackson two stage trigger as I simply love two stage triggers, but the stock trigger removed was a very good Remington trigger lightened and crispened by a professional gunsmith. So is this worth my while selling? If so, how much would I get for it?

[Ronin]

The CG trigger is a lovely unit, ive fitted five now to my own and a few other rifles, but they all need inlet milling as the safety housing is a bit wider than the standard unit.

 

You have to do the same thing to a lesser extent with Jewels as well to avoid the safety linkages being fouled.

 

The other bit to watch out for with the CG unit is that the lower section just in front of the bar that holds the trigger blade will foul the bottom metal on the inside, it needs about .030" milling from the inside section of the bottom metal to make them an interferance free fit.

 

 

You seem to need to do this no matter what bottom metal you fit (standard Rem BDL, Badger and SYSS bottom metal), not a great deal of work but it was frsuatrating the first time having to work out which parts to relieve.

 

 

Oly, i'm not suggesting you have fitted the trigger wrong, but with an empty chamber and cocked bolt, try pulling the trigger to the end of the first stage, release and open the bolt, I have had a couple that fired when I open the bolt despite following the set up instruction leaflet to the letter. If it does let go there is a section in the instructions which explains how to ajsut this out, its after the spring weight ajust section.

 

Its just another safety check really.

 

 

 

Standard Rem trigger 2nd hand - £30 - £50 if your'e lucky mate.

[Oly]

Many thanks for the advice Ronin, I'll give it a try. It was fitted by a pro gunsmith, so it should be OK - but it's always worth checking I guess!