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inletting a synthetic stock?


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It wont be easy getting that inlet for a few reasons, firstly too get a clean cut into the stock without chipping around the barrel channels etc you will need a mill that runs at very high rpm's to cut it cleanly, possibly faster than a normal gumsmith will have also as you can imagine it is extremely messy to cut into a fibreglass stock and the dust etc from it would make real mess in a worshop. You will be best o look into getting a proper stock maker to do it like gary cane etc though I am sure there are some gunsmiths that will do it though they might not really want to, a proper stock maker would be the easier choice, maybe that guy from "staffforshire synthetic stocks" would be able and equipped to do it. ps I only know all this as I looked into getting a flat top stock inletted.

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nah, I never tried that hard though as I hadnt bought the stock yet I was just checking before I bought it.

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Milling machine and long reach router bits are what I use ;)

 

But unless I had a pattern to go off, it would be very easy to make a mistake and go too far..........ruining the intergrity of the stock. B)

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Did you not have any problems with chipping out Andy? When I went to order a flat top stock Jackson rifles told me it would be hard to get it inlet by anyone due to the problems I have stated, dont quote me on this but they said I think the mill would need to turn in the region of 8,000-10,000 rpm, again dont qoute me on those figures but thats what I think it was. I know my biggest router will do 6,000 rpm. Did you find that ok?

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Like with a laith would it not give the required finish with your max speed but reduce the cutting rate i.e. feed.

 

Dave

Not quite, the chipping I think is refered to the gel coat which has quite low tensile strength but

quite high hardness. Very brittle. Instead of cutting away a bit, a chunk comes out.

Tools need to be sharp and have small resistance while cutting. but.. cutting something mineral filled

will blunt tools quickly.

Some use diamond tipped tools.

We've moulded our own ceramic tips which also work well.

 

One could also filler and paint the chipped areas or total stock after machining.

 

edi

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Most half inch routers will run up to 20,000rpm, both of mine will. Fibreglass is normally done by grinding with abrasive discs and tubular bobs which will take as little or as much as you want off.

I normally rough out with coarse grit 60 or 80 and finish with finer stuff up to 320 grit. Dremels are brilliant at this and a pillar drill is very useful too. As Andy says great care you dont remove too much and weaken the stock is the thing, its very easy to get impatient and try to rush it. ;)

Redfox

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Craig

 

I have a set of Laminate worktop cutting bits that are for a router, but a bit longer than usual.

 

I have a straight edge cutter and a couple of different diameter radius cutters. All are razor sharp - cannot recall what brand they are but theyre orange and pointy and nasty things ;) .

 

My mill runs at 2300 rpm max, this is what I set it at when cutting inlets (or should I say reworking inlets to fit other things) :lol: such as Badger bottom metalin a BDL inlet etc.

 

I havent experienced chipping (yet)

 

Most of the work ive done has either been on laminate or Manners stock (which are carbon fibre outer skin), howver I have done a couple of Mcmillans and providing you feed sloooow and dont cut too much materiel, you do get a nice finish.

 

Spose i'm lucky to have the mill, far easier than Dremel.

 

I may have a few pics of the set up in use, if I find them I'll post em.

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