6.5Grendel Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Rup When i get home I'll send you a pic of my 'wave' washer. My ase utra kept loosening after a few shots and this sorted it Andy Doh! Just seen the date of posting !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMcC Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I read this thread with interest as I have had few mods over the years and never had a problem with any of them coming loose. I started out with the good old steel T8, no problems, then an A-Tec still no problems and now am using the recently imported Dpt mods. I read further back somebody said the alloy mods will work loose due to expansion when warm. I have still to experience such a thing and that would have been using the A-TEC alloy mods and now the Dpt mods and on ranges or zeroing after setting the correct zero and then the play mode sets in so it can get quite hot then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 If its never happened to you, then I would say your muzzle threads are "tight" to say the least. A correct muzzle thread will have a certain amount of play in it, even when cut to a guage, because thats how a muzzle thread should work. The mod IS NOT supposed to be tight on the threads, its centralised ONLY by the square shoulder behind it. Not the thread, and most defiantly not the rear bush if its a reflex mod. The Barrel shoulder only. You should be able to spin the mod freely down the thread and it "snap" onto the shoulder and lock there. Even that will come loose when the mod warms up. A moderator is unscrewed by the bullet,s gas trail passing through it, spinning in the opposite direction [ r/h ] to the thread. This is why some military rifles use a L/H mod thread. This tightens in use. Never seen any type of moderator unscrew on an Accuracy international left hand thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybrock Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 If its never happened to you, then I would say your muzzle threads are "tight" to say the least. A correct muzzle thread will have a certain amount of play in it, even when cut to a guage, because thats how a muzzle thread should work. The mod IS NOT supposed to be tight on the threads, its centralised ONLY by the square shoulder behind it. Not the thread, and most defiantly not the rear bush if its a reflex mod. The Barrel shoulder only. You should be able to spin the mod freely down the thread and it "snap" onto the shoulder and lock there. Even that will come loose when the mod warms up. A moderator is unscrewed by the bullet,s gas trail passing through it, spinning in the opposite direction [ r/h ] to the thread. This is why some military rifles use a L/H mod thread. This tightens in use. Never seen any type of moderator unscrew on an Accuracy international left hand thread. Just for interest really Dave why aren't all mods left hand thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breacher Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Ase Utra here. Never loosens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breacher Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Ase Utra here. Never loosens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.5Grendel Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Ase Utra here. Never loosens. mine does hence the wave washer and I need to clean those threads !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter686 Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 The one common denominator here is thread fit. A gunsmith has two options when threading a barrel. He can either thread the barrel to fit the moderator , or he can thread the barrel to an industry standard thread ring gauge which are certified and give exactly the correct thread depth. This means any moderator will fit that thread. This is how I cut mine. Moderator threads vary from type to type on how loose the internal thread is. I,ve never come across any brand that is tight on a gauged thread. Aluminium mods work loose quickest because they heat up and expand at a much faster rate than a steel mod. The problem is an old one. This^^ The thread on my Tikka is at the very max of tolerance so its hellish loose on any standard M18x1 thread. When making my mod i had to go to the other extreme to get any kind of reasonable fit. So much i could easily go outside tolerance in order to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bewsh Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 The new version of PES/MAE T12 mods have a spiral/vortex built into the internal wall to allegedly counter the loosening and use the gas to tighten the mod on a right hand thread I run one on my 300Win Mag after a rather embarrassing failure of the former moderator was replaced immediately and painlessly by MAE so far so good never comes loose, the old one did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1971silversurfer Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Ase Utra here. Never loosens. My SL5 in 5/8x18UNF loosens on a factory cut thread Remington, yet my 18/1 Jet Z does not on a thread cut by Baldie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nthnmunky Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 I keep looking at the sonics moderators for this reason. They have a twisted first baffle so the mod will self tighten after each shot. Much the same as some military muzzle breaks do. I keep meaning to ask if anyone has one? Do they like it and does it work? I have a Sonic 45 on my .308 and haven't had any issue with the moderator coming loose. I might just be one of the lucky ones but for me it worked straight out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 By main rifle , a std AI AW in 308 , using the factory AI tac brake ( with LH thread ) , and a steel Bugger & Thomet suppressor , always loosens with use , I usually check it every 10rds or so , this is when shooting say a 40-70rd match . And as FAR as the specially designed baffles made to tighten the suppressor ( ie the baffle is designed to impart a directional twist ) , I donot believe that Sh&% for one nano sec . Other than lock tightening a QD locking brake in place like a AU borelock , or other such design , and using a suppressor with a locking mech on that brake , I have NO expectations of any suppressor staying in place on a centerfire rifle . thats the single point muzzle type cans , I have however had a 2 point ( large can ) suppressor , stay in place without a locking mech , BUT this uses a type of tension to stop the can unscrewing , a bit like the locking washer theory . I am about to test a couple of new 3D printed cans soon , and although they use a std AI tac brake to mount on , the company has its own locking design mech , which is really neat , and I hope they make available soon as well , this uses their own design brake , and a neat multi-point locking ratchet mech , VERY nice . Also they are working on a QD mount to the std M16 flash hider , so the user does not need a special interface , ME I said , I would rather use the special brake/hider , as its a far better solution to me , even when you have to BUY a seperate flash hider/brake to make the system work . Too many compromises , when you run off the std M16 flash hider , that was never designed as a QD suppressor mount , both in design & tolerances etc . Later Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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