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The economy of modification over new build


jungle_re

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Right guys i'm after some advice. I'm having my first custom built this year by Mr Danp in 7-08 something i'm very much looking forward to as a bigger deer/boar/target fun rifle and I wish to complement it in the summer with a smaller rifle either 6BR or .223 and its this second rifle thats causing me some hard decisions.

 

I currently have my .243 remmington for sale and have had to drop the price to silly money to get interest and could now sell it to several interested peoples this is it http://www.guntrader.co.uk/Guns-For-Sale/Remington_Rifle_700-Classic-Deluxe_For-Sale_130106144814202

Now the dilemma do I sell this to my buyer at the price which won't even cover the stock cost on the 7-08 or do I use it for something else?

 

I was thinking about the possibility of just using the action for a semi custom 6BR but would the cost of of having it blue printed, bolt flutted and duracoated not save me any money than selling the whole thing and buying a custom action or modified tikka etc? I could them sell the mounts the boyds thumbhole and the original CDL stock for a couple of quid. Could the .243 barrel be flutted and re chambered for the 6BR and if so is it even worth bothering with?

 

The Bushnell scope was an inherited one and ive been quite impressed with it for a low priced piece of glass and if modify it would be transferred to the rimfire as the hawke currently on it is severely limiting my LSR shooting (it very hazy and a very narrow focus that when standing often has to be adjusted to keep the target visible.

 

I dont want to keep the .243 it too heavy for what I shoot nowadays so thats not really an option.

 

So what can be done, what would be the best economic route and what would you do if it was your and why?

Must appreciated

Will

 

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last summer i had my 223 which i did not use much due to a 204 altered .the walther tube had the chamber cut off and rechambered to 22br new bolt and the remington magazine worked on so it feeds for (if remembered correctly) less than £600 .did some load testing yesterday and put five out of six shots into half inch at 200 yards went out this morning and shot a crow at 190 yards spread him in a 12 foot radius have you considered 22br very accurate and hits hard

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last summer i had my 223 which i did not use much due to a 204 altered .the walther tube had the chamber cut off and rechambered to 22br new bolt and the remington magazine worked on so it feeds for (if remembered correctly) less than £600 .did some load testing yesterday and put five out of six shots into half inch at 200 yards went out this morning and shot a crow at 190 yards spread him in a 12 foot radius have you considered 22br very accurate and hits hard

 

I hadn't will have a read up on it s comparisons tonight though. This rifle will be used on deer (munty, CWD and Roe up North) as well as other things so will have to have a good look into it. If its compares well it might be chucked into the mix. With my fathers .223 ive shot more deer than any other rifle including my own, I know what I can do with it but not sure if the remmy SA could be used where as i'd think the conversion to 6br would be a little easier.

 

Took me long enough to decide on on 7-08 I thought this would be the easy one to sort out lol

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Will,

 

people are already onto calibres / cartridges, but that doesn't answer your basic question. Do you keep it and do a rebuild, or do you sell it and start afresh?

 

You don't say how happy you are with the 700 CDL now and how well its shoots, but I'd assume there is nothing intrinsically wrong or bad about it. At £550 for the lot, I reckon you're being robbed, but the market tells you what it'll pay. Still, I'm not surprised you've got several would-be buyers now!

 

In your shoes, I'd look to do something with the rifle, nothing phenomenally expensive, but you can almost certainly get a nice number two rifle without going down the road of blueprinting and trueing the action and the full set of works. Do that, and you might as well (better well in fact) start on a second custom job.

 

I won't enter into the cartridge / calibre debate, but I'd say ditch the factory barrel irrespective. With the 0.473" bolt-face you have a huge choice of cartridges to rebarrel the rifle to. Get a good match quality barrel put on by a good gunsmith and you'll have something that will shoot very well unless you're very unlucky with the factory action concentricity and bedding. My own prejudice here with a factory rifle rebarrel is to avoid 'over-barrelling' it. I stick to a light varmint or heavy Palma contour for everything except out and out custom single-shot actions, but others disagree.

 

The result won't be as smooth operating, or have as good a trigger as your custom build, but if you choose a good, inherently accurate cartridge such as 6BR, the CDL will likely group just or almost as well. Intially, you only have a rebarreling job outlay, a replacement trigger can come later if desired, a bedding job too maybe.

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my post was more off an example of what i did myself just to show a change does'nt have to cost a small fortune .jungle was thinking 6br or 223 just thought 22br sits nicely inbetween .but do agree with lauire keep what you have and ditch the barrel for something better in what ever takes your fancy much cheaper and quicker if you find a barrel

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Some great replies Guys thank you.

I think keeping hold of it and re barrelling, bedding and a few other minor modification is the way ahead. I get to put a better scope on the rimfire, save the cost of an action and few other little bits. The things I won't use or wan't should make a few quid sold separately to help keep the cost down the moderator, stocks and mounts could go. I imagine the barrel has no worth at all and it just gets binned?

 

Calibre choice then limited to the 0.473" bolt face - Which should still leave both BR rounds?

225 Winchester, 22/250 Remingtion, 6mm Norma BR, 243 Win, 250 Savage, 260 Rem,
6.5/284 Norma, 7/08 Rem, 284 win, 300 Savage, 308 Win, 338 Federal, 35 Rem, and
the 358 Winchester.225 Winchester, 22/250 Remingtion, 6mm Norma BR, 243 Win, 250 Savage, 260 Rem,

6.5/284 Norma, 7/08 Rem, 284 win, 300 Savage, 308 Win, 338 Federal, 35 Rem, and
the 358 Winchester.

 

A big thanks for informative replies :)

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My son is just putting his first rifle together. His goal is a very accurate semi long range ultra light rifle for deer and vermin.

We came across a Howa action (Remmy would have been almost better) and Fergal White is fitting him a 20" Bergara 1/8 fluted

sporter barrel. My son made his own carbon stock built very light but strong which will be finished under 600 grams. AICS mag system,

Alu rail on top and possibly a 6.5-20x50 for summer vermin and a 2.5-8x36 for deer in the winter. Roedale ultra light moderator.

I recon the barrel will run some of the heavier target bullets.

Never had a Bergara barrel before but hope they will shoot as I also ordered myself a 30 cal.

Many customers come to us that are sick of their heavy varmint rigs. Only so much one can do with the weight of a varmint barreled rifle.

 

If one is looking for a light rifle build one has to start with a light action and then choose every component with weight being a priority.

How about a fast twist 22-250 and aics mag all optimised for 75 a-max built on your remmy action?

edi

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My first comment is that there are no economic routes to getting a good rifle. Secondly, I would keep the 243 as is and just use it when the 7mm08 is not available. I would also reload for the 243 so I could use it for practice etc. I've currently got some 70 gr SMKs that I use for practice as well as a heavier load for stalking with my 243 AI.

 

Regards JCS

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keeping the .243 as is is a no go it just doesn't meet my requirement anymore (or for a long time). The 7-08 will/is my (as far as I can manage) money no object rifle and will be my main rifle. The rem my is oh so heavy, now I'm a big fella and and carry it but after a day on the hill its not your friend and its far to heavy to shoot free standing. When I was mainly shooting foxes and a few deer it was ideal out of the lamping wagon but I no longer have the opportunity to do this and left as is it would just sit in the cupboard when I have an alternative. I want a light(isn) smaller calibre to complement the the 7-08 something quick to shoot and low recoiling.

 

Im not trying to do anything particularly on the cheap but the most cost effective iuse of what I have e not loosing loads of cash on what I have or throwing loads of cash into improving an action that I could have bought a Borden/shillen/barnard etc for. I'm going to go down re barrelling route for certain now just need to sort out calibre, twist and barrel length.

 

ejg - Your sons build sounds interesting I look forward to reading about that when he is done, is he using one of your existing stock shapes for his carbon fibre build or a one off? 22-250 certainly fill the requirement but had previously dismissed it purely as the case would match the 7-08, the .22br looks like a good match to the 22-250 though.

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I'd shorten or fit a 22" barrel, (fluted) chamber it in 6mmbr with a twist to suit 70-90g bullets then as funds allow do the trigger and then drop it into one of the pse stocks , nice hardy gen4 mod , march scope or a nice zeiss dualyt but not so big as to overpower the handiness of the new rifle , 20moa pica tinny rail , aics mag kit ..........

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ejg - Your sons build sounds interesting I look forward to reading about that when he is done, is he using one of your existing stock shapes for his carbon fibre build or a one off? 22-250 certainly fill the requirement but had previously dismissed it purely as the case would match the 7-08, the .22br looks like a good match to the 22-250 though.

 

It is a standard Howa Hunter/Varmint. Normally we work in a team laying up a stock but in this case he made it all himself. He has a very high level of concentration and soaks every fibre with the minimum resin needed. Just very tedious and takes around 4 hours non stop. He made me an E-Tac for my new build that will be under 800grams when completed, including recoil pad and adjustable cheek. These stocks must all be tested first....loooking forward to testing.

Generally I think one can shoot very well with a light weight rifle especially with moderator fitted or a smaller calibre. Don't think one really needs a heavy barrel for vermin out to 400m maybe even more.

edi

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It is a standard Howa Hunter/Varmint. Normally we work in a team laying up a stock but in this case he made it all himself. He has a very high level of concentration and soaks every fibre with the minimum resin needed. Just very tedious and takes around 4 hours non stop. He made me an E-Tac for my new build that will be under 800grams when completed, including recoil pad and adjustable cheek. These stocks must all be tested first....loooking forward to testing.

Generally I think one can shoot very well with a light weight rifle especially with moderator fitted or a smaller calibre. Don't think one really needs a heavy barrel for vermin out to 400m maybe even more.

edi

Probably not-a good (factory)sporter should do 1/2 moa,a super build might do 1/4 moa.Under field conditions, the sporter is ok to your 400 yards.There is a case for heavy and one for light Heavy barrels came in with US varminting-often strings of shots in high temperature locations. This weather is less likely to apply in the uk,and more often opportunities for a shot come at several minute intervals,at best.Range shooting benefits from weight-in general,hence the limits on competition all up weight-though these limits are generous indeed by field standards.

The downside of weight comes if you have to carry the rifle,as you say.Many shooters clearly don't. The main reason the British big game hunters had a gun carrier for their 20lb plus black powder doubles was not primarily imperialistic,they wanted to be fit enough to actually hold and fire the thing well when really needed.Admitedly extreme,but few would be able to claim that a stalk was successful only because they had a 15 lb rifle,and few that it failed because they had a lightweight one. Moderators certainly help-recoil is never good for precision or accuracy,or seeing what happens! Nice of course to have the choice.Or both!! Not many good joiners get by with only two chisels,though DIY might.

george

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It is a standard Howa Hunter/Varmint. Normally we work in a team laying up a stock but in this case he made it all himself. He has a very high level of concentration and soaks every fibre with the minimum resin needed. Just very tedious and takes around 4 hours non stop. He made me an E-Tac for my new build that will be under 800grams when completed, including recoil pad and adjustable cheek. These stocks must all be tested first....loooking forward to testing.

Generally I think one can shoot very well with a light weight rifle especially with moderator fitted or a smaller calibre. Don't think one really needs a heavy barrel for vermin out to 400m maybe even more.

edi

Probably not-a good (factory)sporter should do 1/2 moa,a super build migh do 1/4 moa.Under field conditions, the sporter is ok to your 400 yards.There is a case for heavy and one for light Heavy barrels came in with US varminting-often strings of shots in high temperature locations. This weather is less likely to apply in the uk,and more often opportunities for a shot come at several minute intervals,at best.Range shooting benefits from weight-in general,hence the limits on competition all up weight-though these limits are generous indeed by field standards.

The downside of weight comes if you have to carry the rifle,as you say.Many shooters clearly don't. The main reason the British big game hunters had a gun carrier for their 20lb plus black powder doubles was not primarily imperialistic,they wanted to be fit enough to actually hold and fire the thing well when really needed.Admitedly extreme,but few would be able to claim that a stalk was successful only because they had a 15 lb rifle,and few that it failed because they had a lightweight one. Moderators certainly help-recoil is never good for precision or accuracy,or seeing what happens! First shot matters most,too. Nice of course to have the choice.Or both!! Not many good joiners get by with only two chisels,though DIY might.

george

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The 20" tube going on the 7-08 is a light varmint profile fluted and this is a really nice comprise for a sporting gun IMO. Not sure what I will put on the remmy will very much depend on the calibre I suppose but it wont be any heavier than that profile maybe a little lighter depending on length

 

Well the Remington is now stripped down, scope mounted on the X-ring ready to zero and mounts, moderator and stock ready for flogging

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so you going use the remmy action then jungle.had both my two rebarreled with out blue printing and they both shoot great.my sons got a 595 tikka standard weight barrel bedded into a macmillan sporter nice and lite compared to mine

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Yep mate going to use the remmy action currently thinking on .22Br ;) though may change to 6Br not completely a given yet. I'm new to reloading so quite daunting to go down this route also. Current plans will leave the action as is other than maybe a duracoat and bolt fluting to make it look sweeter, barrel and into a Mcmillian job done ha ha.

Oh and a matching trigger to the 7-08 so both feel the same(isn) to shoot.

 

Scope is already on the .22 X-ring and the moderator is winging its way up North

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know what you mean about reloading im still a bit green,thought the same about loading 22br as you but its easy just neck down in 22br die trim to length i neck turn mine and away you go .not as straight forword as the 6mm but not bad a spanner like me did it.what trigger you going to use

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CG universal 2 stage. I like 2 stage triggers as i've always shot better with them. Is a bit daunting still early days for me just setting up all the gear; measured 3 chambers all .243 today with the hornday OAL gauge and was amazed at the variation between them.

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bit harder to get in the UK apparently as Jacksons has stopped importing/making them and they have to come from the states. I think if you have a maker who can bring stuff in from america its not too much of an issue. The OAL gauge was repeatable each chamber measured the same 4 times they just were really different the remington to a Voere had a difference from 3.3150" to 3.2000". Ive not loaded up anything yet just setting up all the bits and getting ready I have 3 planks of 3" thick beech acclimatising in the conservatory ready to be made into my bench when I'm next home. 6 weeks working in Cameroon starting on thursday so that will curtail play till March hopefully in time for some better weather - yeah right

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