baldie Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Sorry if this is a stupid question but i am a mucky stalking lad after all Why not have a trigger job done on the existing Rem trigger? Nick. I do this quite regularly Nick, but only to the old unit. I have a stock of them i guard jealously. They were lovely triggers, and very easy to stone/tune to a nice clean/light trigger. I cannot understand why Remington did away with them, and replaced them with the pile of junk that is the X-mark pro, which on the whole, is unreliable, untuneable, and ends up unsafe if messed with. There are people who proffess to be able to tune these down to a pound. What they dont tell you is that they then slam fire, and after a couple of weeks use/break in, wont even male chicken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achosenman Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 This guy Click here sheds a little light into the background of the U.S arms manufacturers trigger saga…lawyers you got to love em. ATB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatzi Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 The big difference that makes jewel triggers both safe AND light while maintaining reliability is their DUAL SEAR design whereas most other triggers utilise a single sear meaning one sear controls both blade and firing pin. The jewel having two means both systems which require vastly differing engagements and resistance can be run far more effectively, triggering the first system then triggers the second system. Its a bit like using a small, light delicate hammer to trigger the release of a big gert heavy bugger that will hit the nail hard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NICK Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I do this quite regularly Nick, but only to the old unit. I have a stock of them i guard jealously. They were lovely triggers, and very easy to stone/tune to a nice clean/light trigger. I cannot understand why Remington did away with them, and replaced them with the pile of junk that is the X-mark pro, which on the whole, is unreliable, untuneable, and ends up unsafe if messed with. There are people who proffess to be able to tune these down to a pound. What they dont tell you is that they then slam fire, and after a couple of weeks use/break in, wont even male chicken. Fare enough Dave,cant argue with that. I forgot Rem changed the Trigger a while back and i heard the new one is a poor replacement. Am i correct in thnking you are not keen on Rifle Basix? Nick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRYHUMOR Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I do this quite regularly Nick, but only to the old unit. I have a stock of them i guard jealously. They were lovely triggers, and very easy to stone/tune to a nice clean/light trigger. I cannot understand why Remington did away with them, and replaced them with the pile of junk that is the X-mark pro, which on the whole, is unreliable, untuneable, and ends up unsafe if messed with. There are people who proffess to be able to tune these down to a pound. What they dont tell you is that they then slam fire, and after a couple of weeks use/break in, wont even male chicken. I'd be scared to death to tune one to 1 lb. (Not lierally mind you....) I would hate to have an unexpected surprize. Even though I've adjusted a few, there have been a couple I just had to leave alone for a couple of weeks, and then go back to them. Seems when you go a bit too far in the wrong direction, it's best to stop and take a break, before continuing. At that point, they seem to fall into place quite nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Fare enough Dave,cant argue with that. I forgot Rem changed the Trigger a while back and i heard the new one is a poor replacement. Am i correct in thnking you are not keen on Rifle Basix? Nick. Rifle basix triggers are good triggers, providing you leave them well alone, and pick the right model for the required weight of pull. They start at 4-8oz [forgive my memory here ] then you have a 4-16 oz then a 1lb to 3lb model. Providing you pick the one which broadly speaking has your desired weight somewhere midway, then they are fine. Adjusting them from their factory setting invalidates their warranty, and is not a case of just fiddling with the screws. The factory settings are safe, but just altering one incorrectly renders them out of kilter, and they will slam fire. People cant leave screws alone. You have to impress upon potential buyers that they mustn,t fiddle with them. They are also a pig to get right again once messed with. The Shilen is a similar trigger, but better made, and its only drawback is that it has quite a narrow blade. I like the CG unit, but at £275 they are ridiculously expensive now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brown dog Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 The big difference that makes jewel triggers both safe AND light while maintaining reliability is their DUAL SEAR design whereas most other triggers utilise a single sear meaning one sear controls both blade and firing pin. The jewel having two means both systems which require vastly differing engagements and resistance can be run far more effectively, triggering the first system then triggers the second system. Its a bit like using a small, light delicate hammer to trigger the release of a big gert heavy bugger that will hit the nail hard! Think it's actually only got one sear; the second part of the mechanism is a toggle strut mechanism that takes all the strain, and which collapses when the sear lets it go. Just like the short-recoil toggle in a Maxim or Luger. Bloomin clever to be the first fellow to think of applying toggles to triggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 BD Apparently Arnold got the idea looking at aircraft undercarriage Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatzi Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Mechanical release aids used in archery virtually all incorporate a dual sear or toggle design. I never weighed the ones i used but they broke like a jewell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brown dog Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Mechanical release aids used in archery virtually all incorporate a dual sear or toggle design. I never weighed the ones i used but they broke like a jewell Chris, never heard of a toggle described as a sear, any links to those triggers-be interested to have a read? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatzi Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Baldie probably still has one knocking around somewhere, Carter Just-Cuz was a good example. I see your point that the second stage is not always strictly a sear but regardless of technical description the point still stands that a primary sear triggering system is used to disengage a secondary 'selection of mechanics' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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