Pillar Bedding

[Orka Akinse]

Guys

 

In anticipation of the arrival of my McMillan A5 it will need bedding and was going to have a go at doing it myself trouble is I have never done it before and was wondering, whats involved? Is it a straight forward job?

 

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

Regards & thanks

 

O A

[col48]

Guys

 

In anticipation of the arrival of my McMillan A5 it will need bedding and was going to have a go at doing it myself trouble is I have never done it before and was wondering, whats involved? Is it a straight forward job?

 

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

Regards & thanks

 

O A

 

hi -

 

what action / barrel contour are you doing. as this could/will have a bearing on which method you should use.

 

IE if it is a very large contour barrel, it is best to extend the bedding forward of the action to help support the barrel and try to stop the weight of the barrel putting stress on the action. this is mostly done with very heavy contoured barrels.

there are a lot of different ways to skin this cat, and i would say that no one way is correct. because the rifle will tell you if it is right or not.

have a look at this.

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

ATB

Colin

[Ronin]

It depends on what action you are bedding really

 

Remington and other round actions are pretty straightforwards, flat bottomed actions like Sako and Tikka's require more work.

 

Where are you in the country?

 

If you do it yourself I suggest trimming the Pillars =.030" over size (so they protrude into the action inlet) glue with epoxy, Then bed with Devcon or similar bedding material.

 

 

if you search on the web there are a few "how to do it" pages.

 

Ive been doing bedding for several years on my own and friends rifles, if you want to PM me, I'l forward some info.

 

There are other lads here who can help too, I am sure.

[Orka Akinse]

I got the stock for my Sako 75, its a sporting profile but when I shoot this barrel out I might get it refitted with a heavier barrel

[Orka Akinse]

conatct Col48 if your thinking of having a new barrel fitted mate super fast service,unlike others we wont speak about the DVD will be posted Monday

 

 

Know what you mean FB I think it will be a while yet before it needs a new barrel but I'm tryin to plan ahead a little which may or may not make a difference to the way its bedded I guess?

 

Thanks for the DVD.

[Ronin]

Yes the Sako 75 is more work because of the "awkward" recoil lug arrangement.

 

 

This is a ROUGH GUIDE only,

 

I take no responsibility if you follow this method and it goes wrong

 

If you ask ten smiths, how to pillar bed - you'll get maybe ten different answers

 

Anyway this is how I do it (and I am NOT a Professional Gunsmith in case you were wondering)

 

Firstly you need to make pillars from 5/8th or 9/16th aluminium bar and cut them .030" over length having measured the distance bettween action base and bottom metal top with depth micrometer.

 

Cut ferrules (rings) on the outer diameter of the pillars so glue will have more surface area to hold to, then drill the internal diameter a bit over the diameter of the action bolts (I may be mistaken but I think these are 6mm in the Sako's)

 

Once you have made the pillars, mount the stock so that the action holes are at vertical and using pillar drill or similar bore out the stock holes to the pillar o/d

 

Seat the pillars so that the over length portions sit into the action inlett side and glue in place using epoxy resin (I fit the action and bottom metal in place so that all sits square at this stage MAKING SURE you dont glue everything together) and clamping the bottom metal flush with the stock so that the pillars dont slide before setting.

 

Leave for 24hrs to set.

 

Once the pillars are set, remove action and bottom metal

 

Prep the inlet area (upper) for bedding by removing 1/8th inch of stock material everywhere the action would sit - drill small holes at random spaces in this area to give bedding area more purchase.

 

Using play dough or plasticine, mask off any area in the action inlett you dont want to be bedded and cover this with release agent such as clear shoe polish of something similar.

 

Action - strip it completely, remove trigger etc and bung and voids / magazine hole, trigger inlett with play dough or plastecine to stop the bedding materiel ingressing.

 

Once again cover all the action that will come into contact with the bedding materiel with a release agent so it will be easy to remove from it when its set - THIS STEP IS VITAL. OR YOU END UP WITH GLUED IN AND USELESS RIFLE.

 

At this stage cover the recoil lug all over with release agent and seat it into its space on the action. Some I know have soldered the lug to the action others epoxy it in place, I prefer to leave it as Sako intended.

 

Mask off any area on the stock where bedding materiel may ooze out onto it.

 

Using a O ring put this on the barrel near the chamber so the barrel is "centered" in the channel when you seat it in the bedding compound.

 

Cover barrel area from the action up to o ring with release agent - and beyond so the barrel is not going to stick.

 

Cover action screws with release agent, cover bottom metal with release agent.

 

Now youre ready to fill the inlett with bedding materiel.

 

Mix as per makers instructions, take deep breath and fill stock inlett with bedding compound, where you have prepared for it.

 

Take deeper breath, seat barrelled action into compound, fit bottom metal and action screws, nip up.

 

You will notice bedding oozing out everywhere, clean this with tooth pick or whatever you choose - its easier and neater to do it now rather than when its set.

 

After 1 hr turn action screws 1/4 turn either way to make sure they are free. nip up again and leave it for 24 hrs.

 

After 24hrs, unscrew action scews, remove action from bedding, (a sharp tap with rubber hammer sometimes helps here)

 

Clean off excess and youre done.

 

Easy eh?

 

Hers some pics of Remington 700's, which I know is different inlett shape, but the principles the same:

 

 

 

 

 

 

There will probably be "critique" of messy bedding from some, but all the rifles I have done,have shot measurably better

 

 

If you look at this link, you'll see how a mate of mine does it to Sako's, haven't fathomed out how to get the finish that "glassy" yet....

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1100

[Orka Akinse]

Flippin 'eck

 

I need to read this properly.

 

Thanks Ronin............. I think

[Ronin]

Flippin 'eck

 

I need to read this properly.

 

Thanks Ronin............. I think

 

 

It is not a job to take lightly - it's "relatively" easy, so long as you are careful and methodical - rushing only gets you a glued up rifle.

[Orka Akinse]

Might try it out on my old .22RF then if I cock it up a) My FEO will be happy and I can scrap it an get a .17HMR

[ejg223]

If you look at this link, you'll see how a mate of mine does it to Sako's, haven't fathomed out how to get the finish that "glassy" yet....

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1100

 

Ronin, I presume it's your release agent.

You should get the glassy surface if you use

mould release wax and PVA release agent. (PVA alcohol based)

Wax then polish then PVA.

 

edi

[col48]

If you look at this link, you'll see how a mate of mine does it to Sako's, haven't fathomed out how to get the finish that "glassy" yet....

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1100

 

 

Ronin, I presume it's your release agent.

You should get the glassy surface if you use

mould release wax and PVA release agent. (PVA alcohol based)

Wax then polish then PVA.

 

edi

 

shoe polish (kiwi clear)gets a glass like finish, put it on and polish it off repeat the proses and you should be good to go.(don't get it on thick,make sure you Polish it of so you can not see it)

 

ATB

Colin

[Vermincinerator]

Have to agree with Col, thats how i did mine, buffed it off with paper towels, finish is super smooth and glass like, however you will only get that if the finish on your action is the same.

If its shot blasted you will get a dull mottled finish

 

Ian.

[Ronin]

He he he, old dog just learn't new trick.

 

Will try that when my 6.5x47 barreled action arrives.

 

Cheers lads

[Ronin]

Maybe Santa will provide that and some things from the AGI as well.

 

 

The 7mm/300WSM is well on the way to completion. Sounds like from your experience with this calibre I should order a spare barrel now

[Ronin]

Thanks Funky, i'll bear that in mind - I also have a straight 7mm WSM on my ticket for Target shooting but that will be an "improved" design case.

 

Ive also some larger things planned so 2008 could be an expensive year....

[Ronin]

Was thinking of a 40 degree shoulder and .312" nk throated to accomodate 180g Berger or Cartrucio VLD's

 

(still in thinking stage though mate)

 

Maybe build the 338 first.....

[Orka Akinse]

FB got the DVD thanks mate. I must have been workin to hard or some'at put it in my 'puter and spent hours trying to get it to work................ DOH!!!!

 

I'll now go try the TV