andybrock Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Anyone know where I can buy a good barrel vise and action wrench from? Many thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotch_egg Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Brownells in the USA, they ship to the UK and are good value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sako Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Try Stuart from Osprey rifles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6mmBR Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I got mine from Sinclair International. Very handy it is too. cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Depends on what you want to remove. If its a switch barrel br rig, then the lightweights from sinclair, Davidsone tc are excellent . Ronin has one for sale i believe. If its for removing factory barrels from old guns, then you need something far more substantial. I use the brownells vice with aluminium inserts, and their action wrench with an extension bar. Dont underestimate the force and grip required for some factory barrels...it can be huge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybrock Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Depends on what you want to remove. If its a switch barrel br rig, then the lightweights from sinclair, Davidsone tc are excellent . Ronin has one for sale i believe. If its for removing factory barrels from old guns, then you need something far more substantial. I use the brownells vice with aluminium inserts, and their action wrench with an extension bar. Dont underestimate the force and grip required for some factory barrels...it can be huge. It's for swapping barrels on a Stolle Kodiak action. Cheers Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Then the davidson etc would suit just fine Andy. Contact Ronin on here, he has one for sale. All you would need then is the stolle wrench, and i believe its one of the simple ones that just pushes in the raceway, and you fit a wrench to it. Also ask Vince [gun pimp ] on here, he will tell you exactly what you need for that action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Sorry mate my Davidson sold a while back. Like Baldie, I use the Brownells barrel vice and action clamp when I have to. Most of the time I use slide in fitting wrenches ive made up for actions or the manufacturers action wrench - depending on which one i'm working with. Think the Davidson would serve you well on a Kodiak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybrock Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Thanks Chaps, I've looked on Sinclair/Brownells site and they list action wrenches for Stolle actions, do I need a side wrench, which I imagine fits in the (righthand) port or the rear entry type again I presume it fits in where the bolt goes? It will be the first time I've swapped a barrel so is it as simple as unscrewing one and then screwing the other one in until it stops or are there measurements, tolerances etc I will need to heed to. (both barrels have been made for the action) Thanks again Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6mmBR Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have a Stolle Panda action and opted for the rear entry action wrench from Sinclair as I can get mine out of the stock easily. Port wrenches suite actions which are glued into the stocks. Changing barrels is as easy as unscrew clean and regrease threads and screw on spare tube and nip up. No guages or anything required I can change the barrel in 5 minutes. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybrock Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have a Stolle Panda action and opted for the rear entry action wrench from Sinclair as I can get mine out of the stock easily. Port wrenches suite actions which are glued into the stocks. Changing barrels is as easy as unscrew clean and regrease threads and screw on spare tube and nip up. No guages or anything required I can change the barrel in 5 minutes. Cheers Dave Many thanks for that Dave, I'll get my order sent off. Cheers Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Torque wrench and chamber Go / No Go guages also help (guages just to be certain all ok) I torque most barrels to 60 - 90 ft lbs depending on wether sporter or switch barrel (ie likely barrel will be removed by user) You will find that factory guns are a pig to get barrel off - or can be if you dont have a few tips... The Stolle should come off easily I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldon Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 ............... and the tips are Ronin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Factory barrels are a PITA to get off. No secrets really and widely known "on't web" if you have access to a lathe and the barrel isnt intended for anything else, it helps to make a relief cut forwards of the action face / recoil lug (a couple of thou off) this will relieve the tension on the barrel shoulder - making it easy(er) to unscrew. The other tip, if you have a barrel with threadlock, apply even heat (not getting anyweher near changing colour) till u see a puff of smoke come from the threads, the threadlock will now be burnt off and easier to remove the barrel - assuming you have vice and action wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldon Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Cheers Ronin, I knew about the heat and threadlock as I have done this many a time on other components but didnt think about the relief cut, good idea. How deep do you take it ? 1mm ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 how can you tell when the head space is correct or do you simply go by go nogo gauges for this on a switch barrel i presume once a barrel has been off then put back on and made sure headspace is ok that the bullets seating depths may vary a little from before the switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Cheers Ronin, I knew about the heat and threadlock as I have done this many a time on other components but didnt think about the relief cut, good idea. How deep do you take it ? 1mm ? I have a plunge cutting tool - circa .070" wide and .110" deep, this when "plunged" in by .070" is sufficient for Howa, Rem, Win takeoff barrels. I usualy use this method as it avoids overstraining action and also as the barrels are scrap, it doesnt matter if the shoulder is "toast" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 how can you tell when the head space is correct or do you simply go by go nogo gauges for this on a switch barrel i presume once a barrel has been off then put back on and made sure headspace is ok that the bullets seating depths may vary a little from before the switch Barrels do not always go back on the same - unless you use a decent torque wrench and have cleaned degreased / regreased the threads. (well thats what ive found - maybe others could comment on their experiences) However, I usually cut my chambers to Go-Guage +.001 - .003" depending on application. Sporting guns slightly looser than target - although to be honest all shoot well. However, to answer the question; Tighten barrel to (for example) 80ft lbs - insert clean bolt and clean Go Guage - into CLEAN chamber. Bolt should close, snugly with light pressure - without extractor or ejector fitted. Remove Go Insert No Go and attempt to close Bolt gently - it shouldnt close if chamber within SAAMI / CIP spec. Personally, I use a Go and shims of various thickness, to check my own chambers - but I try nd work (as I said) to tighter tolerances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 cheers ronin for that ive often wondered how it was done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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