KABOOM

1 hour ago, Scrumbag said:

Andrew,

there is a very long and convoluted answer to that question. The short answer is: I drank the cool aid...

Scrummy

I encountered the same thing with 90grn sierra game king vs 90grn sierra tipped game king both fit the magazine.The tipped version version had to be seated rather deeper. What the distance to lands was i haven't a clue i don't worry about such things , my only concern is mag  fit or not being jammed into the lands. Both loads shot accurately . Does the shorter cartridge shoot to your needs?

5 hours ago, JockStalk said:

Would really like to hear anyone’s experience of pushing distance (600m +) with this fine cartridge. 
I’ve a hankering to see what I can do with 162 amax in a good quality, modern actioned sporter (it’s a Varberger aka kongsberg/lakelander) 

JS

I shoot a 7x57 and you should do fine. Max loads in my experience are compressed zero issues with that. I plan to do some work with168 grn Sierra Match King this summer. Best wishes for good shooting.

2 hours ago, JockStalk said:

C-22 the primers were showing slight cratering at all charge weights, but no flattening/ blackening or piercing. No visible ejector marking/ smear on the case rim and bolt lift was fine. Its an unmodified rem firing pin and I've read that some primer cratering is not unheard of - and it was the same all charge weights. Without any other warning signs I'm putting it down as something to watch, but maybe just a 'feature' of this rifle/ primer combo.

Had not considered trying a step higher charge (but right enough it makes sense) to see if things open/ sharpen up so will do that and see what I learn from that. I'm touching the lands at about 2.840 ish with this bullet, so will try a range of seating depths back from there. I'm presuming starting with longest COAL and working back for pressure signs.

Will have to sort out a chrony - just muddling through meantime! Appreciate your ideas - thankyou!

A chrony is the best tool any hand loader can have imo. If your primers always look the same  changing charge weights while looking for the other signs of pressure is what i would do, those groups do look nice. I first seat projectiles to the magazine IF the rifle has one or to the lands if not i dont jam into the lands i leave some space. Best wishes for good shooting.

29 minutes ago, Ejcb said:

Gents,

just sorting through some 3 x fired Hornady 6.5 CM and noticed some striations on the shoulder of the cartridge.

i suspect this is from a poorly lubed case and the expander ball compressing it.

has anyone seen this before and have an idea whether these would be safe to fire?

 

Should be safe, consider Redding has a product to inside neck lube, dry mica and some ball media just dip in and if the case body is already lubed size away. Could be lube dents? Perhaps clean the die body to remove excess lube and stiff they collect. Best wishes for good shooting.

My final thought here was the primer pocket already loosened from use?

 i quit loading brass at 10 shots OR when the primer seating feel is loose enough to notice. i had one live primer fall from a loaded round at the 10th and final loading. All that lot went in the scrap bucket for later sale as scrap. And as i see above the change in primer all other things being the same can raise velocity and via pressure and exactly how much will the other primer change things? Lyman i seem to recall published pressure data once for common primers. Shocking the amount of pressure difference between the makers.

20 hours ago, baldie said:

I've seen several damaged bolts of late, with horrendous gas cutting into them. That bad, the only remedy is welding up.

The common denominator was Murom primers.....

Scotch....get some CCI450's, they are just over half the price of the BR4, and work better in 6.5 x 47 anyway. 

Only the primer was a fault? i would think over pressure was involved or the firing pin point or both. And as i see in another post possible poor seating. To date i haven't blown a primer in anything i handloaded. My blown primer experience is from com bloc 7.62x25 and in Korean surplus M-1 Ball nothing other than my M-1 stock shattered no metal damage.

On 6/28/2020 at 11:06 AM, Borisserge said:

Remington having financial bother again...

https://www.wsj.com/articles/gun-maker-remington-preps-for-bankruptcy-seeks-sale-to-navajo-nation-11593186468

 

Seems so the last owner/investor group must have had the collective head stuffed in the dark and smelly area. Maybe this time they just make a quality product and stop bleeding money.

7 hours ago, banus02 said:

good evening ,question if i may, reference federal 210 l/r primers. i have used federal primers for 40+ years and never had a problem until this week.i have just opened  opend my last box of 1000 primers which i bought two years ago they are all stored in an air tight wooden box in a locked cupboard .i bought 4000 as the last lot a gun shop had ,they have now closed/bankrupt.any way no problems with the 3000 i have used but of the new 1000 box i have used 25 and had 4 fail to fires! so far no signs of damp ,primers look same as any other primer except instead of being blue inside these are red but are the same batch number as the previous 3000,not sure where to go with this as it makes me think twice before pulling the trigger ! having loaded empty cases with ten of these primers i went up my zeroing field and pointing into my back stop fire all 10 with no problems.so did i just get unlucky a have four duds in my 4000 or should i only load these primers for target practice and buy some more primers for field us.?

All the 210M primers I have used are red inside,  Is it possible the shoulder was set back a bit far? I last bought fed210M primers in 2009 and zero issues with duds unless I set the shoulder a bit more than I should. Perhaps contact Federal? 

22 minutes ago, Popsbengo said:

In general UK prices are similar to US dollar  ie 1to 1 so we're paying about 30% more.  A box of Berger 30cal 185 Juggernauts are £71 per 100 at the moment.

Euro stuff is dependant on exchange rates and our VAT (sort of national sales tax at 20% for manufactured goods etc).

A question for you guys in the States:  when a price is shown on a US website, is there State tax to add to that, or is the listed price the total price you pay for the goods?

My brother lives in Maine so it may work out for him to buy small items (non-controlled) and ship to me.

Yes state tax is now added on mail order thanks to our (wonderful) congress. As I despise taxes any how it rankles me. However freight tends to  be cheaper than fuel when the closest outlet is 25 miles one way. If that has nothing add 30 more miles one way. I don't go just for shooting supplies. Best wishes for good shooting.

Just a side bar, I just located .224 90grn  A-Tip for 73 cents a per in USD I wonder just how expensive they are over there.

Perhaps im missing something with this Positive Compensation seems harmonics would be exclusive to the load and if the slower load groups better you did it? I maybe really off base and hope I may learn something here. As I don't shoot at 1k yards for any reason I defer to the knowledge of those who do. As for reworking met plats if the tipped projectile wont do what's needed I sure would reform met plats and see what changes I would hope the newer ELD isn't deforming as I have read the older A -Max did, haven't seen a thing on the newer TMK deforming in flight. The idea of handmade projectiles costing less than A-tip shatters my mind. Cost has to be a huge factor in the shooting sports over there. 

6 hours ago, Biathlonjimmy said:

Thanks to all for your replies.

After some thought, and realising I cannot get a stock with bottom metal for a mag on my .260, I will be putting in for a 6mm. I love my .260 as a deer rifle and don't want to chop it in. I also don't really want two 6.5s.  Not sure yet on 6CM or 6XC. Ballistically almost identical but availability of brass etc will factor.

If I'm looking at the 103-115gr bullets I assume I'll need a 1-7.5 twist as a minimum.

Just getting a quote for a re-barrel, blueprint and new stock on my Rem700 VS .308 . I have also looked at The Savage Model 10 Evolution which I can get via Edgar Bros in a factory left hand 6mm CM. Other factory rifles to consider are Tikka TAC A1 LH but only 6.5CM. 

Am I missing any decent and suitable factory rifles available LH?

I understand most offerings will only be in .243win which won't be ideal due to twist rate.

Thanks again,

James 

If cost isn't a huge factor you can re-barrel any 243 with whatever twist rate suits your need. I think a factory 6 CM would be a great choice in a suitable rifle.

On 5/23/2020 at 2:43 PM, RobertH said:

Hullo.

I was perusing some old load data and targets this evening over a delicious Malt, when I came across this particular half inch grid target (nothing spectacular) which made me pause and lead me to ask this (I hope not embarrassing) question; As all the rounds are roughly in the bottom right quadrant making it pretty much a half a minute group: Does this mean that a half minute group is four times better than a 1 minute group, or do we have to start getting Pi involved and diluting things further?  You can tell I'm bored!

 

 

 

 

Good shooting with by any measure ,my self  I prefer Irish or Bourbon

On 6/29/2020 at 4:11 PM, The Gun Pimp said:

I would say that almost every competitive 6PPC benchrest shooter on the planet is using something between 28.5 and 29.5 grains of Vit 133 behind a 66 - 68gn FB bullet. It just works.

Ah yes reality shooters share info and not much new in 6 PPC world is there?

IMO its just another whiz bang wonder cartridge that has some promise IF you shoot the AR. If not why bother? The uses are rather specialized and data hahah haven't seen much ( haven't looked often either). With that said I hope thousands are sold says the capitalist in me. I seem to recall some AR in .243 win, far more useful imo.

I dont chase the lands. Nor do I reform met plats. Tipped projectiles make that un needed.  If I used a hp design and the met plats were deformed in some way I would maybe. Or replace the projectile. The adage dont screw with "it" its working seems to apply. Parts of this subject tbh im still wrapping my brain around. The ability of the shooter to remain consistent has a huge impact on results no matter the course of fire. Great topic gents I will need to revisit it and ponder.

27 minutes ago, Paul Cat said:

 

(Apologies Kaboom, it's a meme based on an old UK series called Yes (Prime) Minister)

No worries here sir.

The theory was the expanding gasses had less surface to be trapped behind so less erosion? Idk for sure. Having shot 2 groove barrels they do clean up faster for sure,

Thinkin my next barrel will be a 3 groove 12 inch twist for 22-250 suggestions welcome. 3.4.5 5R all considered.

A great bunch of dogs, all of them need a steak and ears scratched. 

8 hours ago, SMLE said:

Government minions?

A some what disparaging term for those "public servants" who seem to work when they wish and make life more problematic by doing so.

After reading and thinking I wonder, when you get the permissions to own a rifle is there any rhyme reason or whim to what calibre you may own?

IMO I have doubts any logic is involved. Just my observation. Im blessed to have pretty much whatever I can afford and that includes full auto if I pay the fee and do the paperwork.

Same with moderators. Some things I simply don't want others I cant find a niche for the item in question. If I didn't interpet my reading correctly please enlighten me.

I spent the afternoon with my Savage 110 heavy barrel .223. To my delight my windage is exactly the same as with my 55grn V-max loads. Elevation at 100 was about a .75 inch higher. At 200 2 inches higher. My load was 25.8 grns CFE223 under the 69grn TMK, Starline brass br4 primers. with some guesswork I was ringing steel at 500 yds at least 20 inches hold over. The bc gain over the lighter bullets was easy to observe, wind was 3/4 value gusts to 15 or steady 10mph. I have zero idea how to post pics the problem being getting them of my flip phone to my lap top. When I master this I will document my verbose ramblings.

4 hours ago, No i deer said:

I had a stunning cold bore shot yesterday evening. 405yds headshot on a crow 😋. Wind half value dialled in 1 minute right 🤠.

Well done sir! Good things come  to those who take notes and observe conditions.

1 hour ago, Paul Cat said:

Last year I bought what was supposed to be 1000 x .17hmr. Having worked my way through some of it and not rotated my stock when topping up (I know, I know) I've only now discovered that the last 500 rounds are in fact .17 Mach 2.

 

I've tried selling it, no takers.

I've tried swapping it, no takers.

I can't return it as it's been too long (and I got it in the US so there's not much chance of a return trip in the foreseeable future).

I don't want to buy another rifle just to use it up and anyway the cabinets are full.

I briefly thought about the 'light a bonfire and run away' method but I'm not really that daft.

 

Apart from giving it to a RFD what can I do with it?

Grab some tools pull the bullets, spread the powder on the grass (think fertilizer) kill the primer compound with oil and bin

the brass. However if this isnt legal in the UK I haven't a clue. Good luck. Odd thought came in, they headspace on the rim so

why not shoot them and really clean the HMR chamber after I see no real reason why this would harm anything. Accuracy wont be great but hey at least you have fun shooting!