KABOOM

CFE223, RL15, IMR 8208XBR I hope some of those are reach compliant. Used all of them with great results.

Not to be found in the USA either, I don't look very often but seen none for at least a year. Wonder where they all went, for that matter the other reloading supplies claimed to be made at record pace.

Very nice rifle. The Ruger no1 has a place in my heart, currently 4 reside with me. There is something to be said for hunting with a single shot rifle and ammunition you loaded at the bench.🙂

20mm or 50BMG perhaps bigger

I have had both and sold the P-14 after a year of not shooting it. Both are fine rifles and other than non windage adjustable rear sight I love the US1917. For those who compete get good stripper clips in stainless steel. then be quick of hand. I did this in Service Rifle matches and kept up with AR shooters.

7 minutes ago, Happy plinker said:

I dont believe the rifle is at fault. I think its the snidey ammunition as its the only brand tried so far. I'll need to invest in more expensive factory ammunition but ultimately its going to be hand loading 

What you have is a example of one. Not at all useful really to figure the trouble. It may take a few brands or as you say handloading, and that may not solve the problem. Before buy the supplies I would try at least 3 other brands of factory ammo. 

10 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

I've just "annealed" 200 .308 Lapua cases using molten salt method.  4sec at 520C.  As usual I expect excellent performance as previously achieved.  Cheap and (more importantly) extremely consistent process every time.

Not wanting to get into yet another round of arguments about this subject, using whatever process floats your boat,  I just offer the thought that (as Catch-22 says above) it's about the results.  I would add it's NOT about some variable hardness test or other such indirect measure of performance value.  For some it's also about case life.

I "anneal" .308 after shooting every 4th reload.  I full-length size about 2thou knock back, and I use a mandrel bullet press so I can feel the pressure of insertion - and it's very consistent. This is born out by results at the range (only place it matters).  Whether "annealing" is achieved is a moot point - I couldn't careless about the grain structure or some other quality measured in a lab (or not).

I routinely get sub 1/2 moa performance at +500yds.  The cases last until the primer pockets are too loose and I've never seen a hint of a neck crack.  Generally I get 12 ~14 reloads from a LRP Lapua case before I judge the primer pockets too loose.  I may get more from SRP cases - time will tell.

Not sure what else needs to be achieved ?

 

I think you got it right, brass life matters, not grain structure.

I have worked with Barnes Bullets in 5 barrels all were cleaned to bare steel from the start. All shot very well none worse than 5 shot group at 100yds being .75 inch. Most were better. If nothing else is amiss and results with the same load vary

perhaps consider the nut behind the bolt. I would love to say all my shots are perfectly directed as desired but no, error happens.😀

Having shot for qualification from the equator in Guyana South America, , Cuba, and California to Canada in winter, Never  have fired a shot in shorts or bare feet. Uniform of the day to include thermal gear and wet weather clothes. I am just not tough enough for frozen toes or sunburned feet. 🙂

The last 2 new rifles purchased I ran several patches with JB compound before firing a shot. Both grouped extremely well and do so today. I spoke with a tech rep at Sinclair/Brownell's about this after the fact and the premis being I had removed the minute burrs and polished the lands. He agreed. So if you really want to do break in do so, this is another way of getting the same results with less time and shots fired.  Best wishes for good shooting.

I use the 750 degree tempilac and when it melts the case hits a bucket of water,  as for case prep , de prime anneal fl size, trim , deburr, chamfer. Not having checked velocity in annealed vs not anneal or for that matter group sizes if the process helps out great. My sole reason to anneal is brass life and wildcat case forming.🍖

5 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

Indeed I can confirm remarkable 1000yd performance with a .223.  I suspect witchcraft.

The OP mentioned 500 yds as 'long range'.  That's easily achieved.  £1k should get something reasonable especially as it's mainly for foxing so a light barrel will suffice - maybe not the best performance for repeated shots at 500yds but needs must - in fact, one of our club members was happily scoring in the 5 ring at 900yds at Bisley with a hunting barrelled CZ and budget scope.

Our minds run the same way and experience, Ruger, Savage, CZ all have fine variety of lower priced 223. My Savage 110 9 inch twist is one of the most accurate factory non modified rifles I have the pleasure to use. Optics in the 6-18x range should be fine for the ranges the OP desribes.

The one thing I haven't seen mentioned is a  good cleaning all copper removed and see how that works. IMO the causes mentioned above are on the money and it can be all of them lets hope its easy to figure out.☠️

Yes if you want get one, your money your choices. 4k barrel life lets hope so.😊

On 7/22/2021 at 6:08 PM, Andrew said:

Don't listen to these guys. If you want one in a bolt gun, get one. People tell me the same thing about the 6.5 Grendel. I shoot three bolt guns in Grendel. I don't shoot the ARC but considering its lineage it should be a good cartridge. Hornady factory ammo claims 2750 fps with a 105  grain bullet. Efficient and quick. Ballistically speaking, there doesn't look to be a spits worth of difference between the 6mm PPC and the ARC with bullets in that weight class. LIke I said, I don't shoot either but I'm guessing the accuracy potential is there.

Get one and wring it out. JMHO~ Andrew

I use tempilaq 750 in flame, it melts I dump the case in water, the case spins in a tool no longer marketed by Hornady. Works fine I saved hundreds of cases from cracking after the first lot of 400 40 or so split necks on first firing.  Could I make the process more complicated? Yes, will I? No.

Ruger simple reliable and still low priced.

On 12/5/2020 at 3:35 AM, Fox Tales said:

Big shout out to Steve Kershaw for all the smithing and Dave Wylde for the excellent Cerakoteing .

 I bought this originally for the action , purely with a build in mind as funds permitted . £75 saw me take possession of a shot out CZ527 , bargain ! 

 Barrel  - 1 in 9 twist , 22" Sassen , Remington sporter profile. 

 Bolt with extended handle ,

 Trigger - Timney (for the CZ550 , not magnum ) set at 1 1/2 lb ,

  Stock - Form Carro in ebony  , pillars and devcon bedding . 

  Cerakote by Dave,  compliments the build perfectly and the finish is flawless. 

 I know I could have bought factory and this isn't the most exotic build but who cares . 

Very nice! Should that not please you my safe has room.

On 11/10/2020 at 12:03 AM, No i deer said:

I guess the only thing to do is make sure you have some brass that is free of sizing wax and try again.

The donuts would/could of gave you more neck tension but inconsistent neck tension. 

Personally I wouldn't of used any lube to ream out donuts.

Atb NID 

yes exactly the lube plus the tension change changed things, remove the lube and see what happens

On 11/14/2020 at 12:20 AM, baldie said:

The 90's are doing 2900 fps from 26 grains of powder.

It would go harder as their is no pressure there, but I dont want to trash the primer pockets, as the starline brass has a reputation for it.

Just curious about the primer pockets number of loads before they loosen ect . I have 1 k loaded now in 223 at max loads so this is thought for my wallet.

On 10/23/2020 at 4:54 AM, meles meles said:

Attached is an electron micrograph of the throat of a carbon steel gun barrel. To our  small, simple and clearly inferior mind, the cracking does indeed seem to follow the grain boundaries rather than being transgranular and forming along those atomic planes which would represent the low resistance paths to simple thermally induced stresses. Equally, we interpreted the back scattered electrons fluorescing at the grain boundaries as being indicative of the presence of sulphides, particularly as they generated the same emissions spectra as suphur. Maybe we got that wrong too. As for the brief duration of the pressure, we foolishly assumed that the Arrhenius reaction rate applied. Aren't we silly ? For those of you who know better than us, feel free to correct us. We're open minded and eager to benefit from your wisdom. Perhaps you could explain to us why, given that the temperature duration is so small, the surface layer of the steel undergoes a transformation from ferrite to austentite  and then cools to form martensite ?  Maybe collar us at the 32nd International Ballistics Symposium on May 8 - 9th, next year ?

Something to bear in mind is that though we hobbyist shooters refer to the crazing in the throat as 'firecracking', maybe we shouldn't consider it to be the same 'firecracking' as seen in boilers, furnaces and bread ovens. The service conditions are different, thus the causal mechanics may be different too. Just a thought. Feel free to ignore it.

 

Not being expert the lines of the cracks look to be nothing more to my uneducated eye than a path of least resistance.  

22-250 and twisted for the projectile weights you chose. 1-9 with the 69TMK would be my choice however a 1-12 with the 53 VMax or the 60TMK would work too. 

On 9/27/2020 at 9:27 AM, Popsbengo said:

With regard to dry vibratory cleaning does anyone else have concerns about the potential for airborne lead exposure? 

I avoid dry vibration cleaning of fired brass without first ultrasonic cleaning as primers are lead styphnate so there's the potential for a build-up of lead in the media and the dust that gets created.  My vibratory polisher is in a well ventilated shed and I dump the polishing media regularly (it's dirt cheap from industrial blast-cleaning suppliers).  When decanting the brass and separating it from the media quite a lot of dust can be airborne so I pop on a dust mask.

I think these are sensible actions to take.   For sure, people who do dry-vibration clean fired brass in their house should really think again about breathing in the dust.

Any other thoughts?

Yes right on track, I separate media with a rotary basket covered, from Cabela's  taking care to allow the internal dust to settle before opening. Return to tumbler I turn the tumbler on and the media flows pretty much dust free to the bowl.

4 hours ago, Bangbangman said:

My T3 groups well with Sierra Gameking, Prohunter and Speer BTSP 100gr bullets and Hornady 95gr SST.

 

However, the awful 90gr Sierra Gamechanger/Tipped Gameking were unstable at any velocity (within safe loadings).

 

Sierra screwed the pooch with the 6mm offering of this (over tough?) marketing dept bullet. They originally claimed it would stabilise in 1:10. That has quietly been revised after it became apparent it will not stabilise in many rifles with that twist (and is presumably marginal for many others, rather spoiling the high BC claims unless you have a fast twist barrel.)

 

I don't understand how Sierra got this so wrong.

I am glad to see the experiences with this projectile, will save me money not buying them. Altitude and assorted weather related things can enhance stability, but unless Im gifted some trying these wont happen.

On 9/6/2020 at 11:07 AM, AnthonyR said:

Thanks for that, that’s exactly the info I was after!

I have been using RL10X in my 20Tac for years, that rifle has now fired over 4500 rounds and the accuracy has only really started dropping off in the last few hundred rounds so it can’t be that bad surely!!!

 

Yes I have 4200 through a 22-250 RL15 and IMR8208XBR shoots fine just not quite as fast. Imo lots of the barrel burnout talk is over stated. each use ie bench rest has its needs but for vermin it really don't matter. The 1k yard shooters have another standard Im sure.

On 9/14/2020 at 9:34 AM, Gavhowe said:

Looking at buying a new set of scales and not sure which to get. Using a set of gem pro 250’s at the minute with a powder thrower and tricker. Are the charge masters etc reliable or would you go beam and auto trickle? 

Just dont buy Pact if they are still around mine have been home to the factory twice and failed again