outlanda

Shame it isn't Carlsberg. Then it would probably be the best range in the world. Heineken reaches parts others don't reach if I remember correctly.

I have some used ones here I could sell.

Good to know they are so valuable as I have one somewhere.

3 hours ago, Sportshooter said:

DId it sell in the end?

Hello Sharpshooter

I still have this for sale

Thank you

Steve

5 hours ago, AnthonyR said:

 

Fits perfectly and the original CTR mag works as it should, so it turns out there is a lot of duff info about this on the net.

 

Well done Anthony you must have a good one. The problems are real just not every rifle and more to do with the .223 CTR mags.

It helps knowing the MDT mags fit thank you.

Steve

I would be interested if available as a .22ARC which would be much the same as the 224 Grendel wildcat and that looks like it will perform well?

Steve

I am thinking about changing my floor plate now so I could sell my Tikka T3X CTR floor plate?

Steve 

12 hours ago, ejg223 said:

Why not buy a T3 Varmint/Lite etc in 223, get the Atlasworx AICS/CTR floorplate and stick with MDT AICS 223. Flog the CTR mag.

My T3 Lite 223 with Atlasworx, I could just as well put an original CTR mag into the rifle, both have the same footprint.

edi

Thank you Edi for confirming this. Switching from CTR mag  to MDT AICS is the way to go for reliability. Do you know if the mdt mags fit the tikka ctr floorplate or do I need the atlasworx floorplate? 

All the best

Steve

I have a .223 CTR stainless and I think its worth just waiting until October as not that far away really. I don't know why the CTR action wouldn't fit a normal T3X stock using Tikka mags or AI mags with appropriate floor plate. I have had problems with CTR .223 mag and seams to be a common problem, I have read that an MDT mag will fit and going to try one day. Or MDT chassis with MDT/AI mags in preference to Tikka CTR mags. I like the look of TAC1 chassis and I think they would be great on the range but I was put off by the weight and didn't fancy lugging it around. I have 24" barrel and wanted 20" but none were available. Rather than a 10 month wait I bought the 24" with a plan to shorten the barrel. However it shoots so well I dare not hack the barrel and ruin it.   

Hi Lee

I just seen your post and it is similar to my post. Worth having a look particularly the last comments and might help you as well as we share same problem.

Cheers

Steve 

4 hours ago, baldie said:

Now we are getting somewhere.

With new brass, the bolt, minus firing pin assembly will close tightly.

The bolt , minus firing pin and extractor, will close freely, with new brass.

The extractor is definately a 223 model ?

If so, its simply, incorrectly fitted. The 223 extractors can be a right pig to fit correctly, and usually get damaged in fitting, unless you do them regularly. A good tip is to drown the bolt head in oil, as you are wiggling them in.

The slightest bit of undue force, and they bend out of shape, and won't go back properly. Bend them too far, and they wont "spring out" and follow the rebate inside the bolt head.

Good evening Dave.

Picking up from earlier. New brass fresh formed and checked in case gauge will fit in the chamber. With extractor fitted, with or without firing pin the bolt needs force to close and removes brass from case head side of groove (case laying down at front of photo)

With extractor removed then with or without firing pin the bolt will close freely without and just right with.

This has been an ongoing problem and have fitted many of these extractors now so aware how tricky it is. This one was a good fit but they haven't always been and I know some have been my fault but have questioned quality of brownells extractors. This one I got from ebay haha and yes it was for .223 and fitted well. I like the tip thank you. Not heard of this before and will certainly try it with the replacement.

So to confirm it is the extractor after all and really my thoughts are just how many times do I have to keep changing these bloody extractors and is it time to upgrade to something better or give up on the rem 700 because of this?

Thank you Sir

With the greatest of respect

Steve       

3 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

the stripped bolt closes on a chambered round with ease when the extraction claw is removed?  That's progress!

You're not the only one to have this issue, it appears to be a known problem with small cases on Rem 700.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/rem-700-extractor-giving-the-rims-of-cases-a-hard-time.3971437/

 

 

 

Hi Popsbengo. Yes to confirm that the bolt will close with ease on a chambered round with ease when the extractor claw is removed and that is with or without firing pin assembly. Massive thank you for the link. This is exactly spot on and its as if I am K22 on that post as I have the identical problem and I see the solution there is to upgrade the extractor hence where I started this thread.

All the very best and thank you.

Steve 

Hello gents.

Thank you for help. I have dedicated this morning to fixing this once and for all.

I have removed ejector, cleaned out crud and re fitted. I have removed firing pin assembly and have a nice slack bolt operation. I have checked neck to shoulder and no different to how they have been for 10 years. I have sized new brass and check they fit in a 223 case gauge which wouldn't show a problem with a .204 neck. I chamber them and the bolt needs force to close and damages case rim. I have just removed new extraction claw so will need another but without it the bolt closes with ease just as it should. I will have to leave it before I grab the angle grinder as i cannot spare any more time for this. Thank you all.

Steve

9 minutes ago, baldie said:

Think i know what's wrong.

have you checked the ejector ?

If you've been shaving brass, i'll bet some has found its way down the ejector hole.

Tap out the pin and remove the ejector. Take the firing pin assembly out, and flush the whole bolt with lighter fluid and compressed air. I'll bet the ejector hasn't been bottoming properly, which will make it feel tight on closing, and will also scrub rims.

If your not confident, send it up to me, and i'll do it.

Thank you Dave I will have a look later on today.

22 hours ago, Scooby-93 said:

Steve, 

I would buy BRAND NEW brass and start again. 
 

As Dave has said it does sound like your reloading method.

with brand new cases run them through your correctly set up FL die ONLY to neck them down. 
 

Without seating bullets etc run them Through the chamber. If all is good load a couple up fire them off and see how your extraction is.

if extraction is hard, measure your headspace with the primer removed on the fired case and then correctly set your die up to bump the shoulder back 1-2 thou, then cycle through the chamber to make sure they chamber and extract easily.

if they don’t and you end up bumping the shoulder back say 5thou then it’s not the shoulder that’s the issue it’s most likely the body or web of the case.

try dropping your charge weight 10% and work back up but keeping within easy extraction 

 

Good morning Scooby-93. I have sized new cases that drop straight into the new Hornady case gauge. They also fit the chamber and i'm not expecting any stuck cases? I still have a tight bolt on closing only but only a little tight and have a big bolt handle to help. No problems bolt lift on extraction but there is damage to the rims from the extractor claw. Its been doing this for a while and can continue.

My charge is already low as I no longer run on full throttle so I don't think I would gain anything dropping the charge.

I happy to agree its my reloading and I need to improve but puzzled as to what?

Thank you

Steve  

23 hours ago, baldie said:

If the gun hasn't been apart for repaint or anything, since it was proofed, then its headspace will be correct, it certainly can't shrink.

It hasn't got a "tight" chamber either, that's a SAAMI spec reamer, that hasn't cut more than a dozen barrels now, certainly not in 2010.

Its your reloading set up.

Good morning Dave. The gun has not been taken apart or repainted or any change since proof. It was 2010 you chambered this barrel. 

I have not thought there was anything wrong with the barrel and have been looking at the bolt in particular the extractor. No doubt my reloading needs some attention, I have little time for it and its necessary a means to an end. Time will tell if I have sorted stuck case issues and go from there.

Thank you

Steve

On 6/4/2020 at 10:55 PM, Bob57 said:

Hi Steve, I don't understand why you're getting variations in your case prep if you have your Redding s bushing die set up properly to achieve bolt close without being tight on a fl sized case, are you still putting the cases through a body die after fl sizing ? Have you got cartridge headspace gauges and callipers to check head space?

You shouldn't be happy with a tight bolt close, you need to get that sorted out.

Good morning Bob. I have only used the redding s bushing die and not the form die. As the cases have already been fired in this rifle and also have same problem with new cases that both fit into the case gauge - I also don't understand. Variations as in some cases fit the gauge and some don't. I have found some variation in case length. I was using a Lee trim die in a Lee turret press. Now I have ditched the Lee trim die and will change the press as well eventually. I have also changed Lee shell holder to Redding. Also started to doubt my digital caliper.  I will try Popsbengo suggestion. I have spent a fair amount of time on this and think it would be easier to live with a tight bolt and some scruffy case rims. There are no local gunsmiths. I have reached a point where I need to upgrade the extractor or change the rifle. 

Steve

Good evening Gents.

Thank you for all the advice and here's a quick update.

First I must thank Bob57,Remmy308, Treetop and Scooby-93 for their help.

Briefly I have polished the chamber and I probably need a bore scope to see the results. I have purchased a Hornady .223 case gauge and checked the cases I run through the action before installing a new extractor. It shown some variation.  I selected cases that dropped straight in to the gauge and run them through the action empty. Same result - the bolt is hard to close, easy to open and score mark on case rim with brass fragments in bolt face after a few. I also tried new cases that dropped straight into gauge and same result. 

The Gauge has been useful for highlighting variations in my case preparation and I would think this has solved any more stuck cases? The new extractor is extracting so I am going to settle for that for now. I will have to live with chewed cases and hard bolt closing I think. I don't know what's causing it and I think the redding shell holder set to set case to headspace might help but bit expensive if i'm wrong!

I tried case gauge on my lake city .223 cases and again some variation. However all these cases fit/extract from my T3X CTR.

Thank you everyone on the post and best wishes

Steve 

Good evening and thank you for comments gents. Dave this is the rem 20 practical. I have changed stock but might recognize colour if anything. Marine PMI I am using full length type s die.

Today the bolt is heavy on closing (more so with lapua than imi cases), no stuck cases and easy to lift bolt. Some scoring on rims but not taking chunks out so an improvement with new extractor.

There will be a delay now whilst I follow up advice and check cases.

Thank you everyone.

Steve

8 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

I don't think the extractor is the problem and you may well be wasting money on an M16 extractor.  Redding to a small base die, I don't know if that's available in 20Prc but it may help.

Good morning Popsbengo. Thank you the extractor idea is shelved until I have investigated case issues. I am a bit fed up with chewed rims and thought extractor upgrade to be the answer hence op. I thought the redding body die will do same job as small base die and possibly could be same thing although I could well be wrong. Only needs a .223 die however.

Steve

39 minutes ago, baldie said:

I believe we spoke at length on the phone about this gun ?

If you still want a day out, it can be looked over.

You are oversizing the brass.

I do remember the gun, it was in a bell and carlson tactical, with a Flecktarn pattern. 

Good morning Dave. That wasn't me sir. Its been a long time and many projects since so unlikely to remember. I will take a photo later but mine was in an H-S precision stock and you painted it a grey colour. Thank you for offer but too far for a day out im afraid. I no longer go beyond Bristol (No country for old men). Oversizing brass is very likely - logical response to stuck cases I suppose.

Thank you for advice. I am very grateful.

Steve

10 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

Hard bolt closing ?  This doesn't sound like an ejector problem at all to me.

This is not right, you should be able to chamber the round with an almost 'drop' into position bolt on closing.  It sounds like your brass is over size for your custom chamber,  ie 'fat' across not long in the neck.  I have had a similar problem with .338.  My Redding Type S die was sizing towards top limit and my chamber is towards bottom limit so the brass was tight going in.  A Hornady die sorted that out.  It may be also made worse by only knocking back the shoulder 2thou as the body isn't going completely into the die.  Try F/L sizing with the shoulder going back to wherever the die takes it.  See if that will chamber easily.

I'm not familiar with 20prac  so I assume you neck down standard .223 ?  Can you compare a brand new .223 to one of your F/L knock-back sized cases?

Maybe have a chat with whoever chambered the barrel if possible?

Good evening and thank you again. I have read your comments and I am beginning to think I still have a problem with the cases. I first use the redding type s fl die and then I used the redding forming die which is only working on the case at the bottom close to the rim.

I will look at case size again - I have now run my resized empty cases through the action before installing the new extractor and rejected any that stuck so I know the loads I shall try tomorrow shouldn't get stuck. If no joy I think I need to get some new Lapua cases and start again.

I think Bob57 has explained the 20 Practical is a .223 that is necked down to .204 with Redding type S die and home load only. And yes Baldie Dave put my 20 Practical together in 2010 when with SYSS so unlikely to remember it.

I have been looking for info on M16 extractor and still consider it an option after trying everything else; really trying to avoid sending rifle anywhere at the moment as no gunsmiths here.    

Thank you

Steve 

Good evening and thank you for your comments gents. The brass has only ever been used in this barrel. I only run mild loads now(18gr IMR 4198 behind 40gr berger hpbt or Hornady v max and CCi400 primers). Velocity is 3200fps approx., and no signs of over pressure. Hard bolt lift/closing has been a problem and the redding body former die has helped fix this 98%. Closing bolt is easier now with custom JR bolt handle. I have changed the extractor a few times now and wondered if there is a problem with Brownell extractors. All sizing has been with a redding s type full length die. I thought the brass might be worn out so have just tried some new PPU and once fired IMI and still marking the rims.  Thank you Ian I will investigate the M16 extractor option 

Steve

8 minutes ago, Bob57 said:

There you go outlanda 👍

Thank you Bob57. 20 practical has been an excellent little round, I like your rifle build particularly the bolt work. It looks expensive and worth it - the only worry would be that I could have bought an clone action by the time I finish spending so I will have to investigate. Essentially I would like to fix issues with the rem extractor. I have just read the post and remember it now from last year. Also a reminder of Bradders when reading his contribution. Thank you.

Steve 

Hi hope you can help. I have a Remington 700 sa 20 Practical and have a problem with the Remington extractor chewing the rim of the .223 brass. I have just replaced the extractor again and still happening. I used the same Lapua brass cases since new and started to get sticking cases that I have improved with redding body die and sorting brass. I have been looking at upgrading extractor to Sako extractor and not sure if worthwhile or who to ask to do the work. So I would be grateful for advice and anyone wiling to share their experience. Thank you.