Miseryguts

Hi, Clearing out the loading room: 44Magnum/44special 400+ 200gn LNRFP bullet £20.00 +£6.50 postage 44 Special 44 Special Factory Crimp Die and 44 Special Powder thru and neck expander die £15 incl. postage 94 once fired 44 Special cases tumbled and sized FOC with Dies Or the whole lot (bullets, dies, and cases) for £30 + £6.50 postage 223 brass cases all tumbled, sized, trimmed and bevelled. All ready to prime and load Mainly once fired, some(few) twice fired 100 Remington OAL 1.756-1.758 100 Winchester OAL 1.755-1.759 100 mixed Remington(80) and Winchester(20) Individually: per 100 £12 incl. postage. Whole lot: £28 incl. postage 223 BRASS NOW SOLD Ammunition boxes 3 MTM Case guard flip top rifle case. Green. RS-50 £6 + £4 postage 2 MTM Case Guard flip top rifle case. Green. RS-100 £6 + £4 postage Whole lot £12 + £4 postage THESE NOW SOLD Postage at cost without a packing charge – don’t moan at me, moan at Royal Mail Or if anyone passing near Usk, can arrange collection PM if interested M

Hi, the extractor plungers do full depress when manually activated, but as I said before, the springs are pretty strong. As you say, the marks on the cases are caused by said plungers. Having lubricated the bolt, things are getting better, so I am happy (if that is the word!) that the problem has been caused by binding of the extractor plungers and extractor claw. I have now been able to check head space and all that seems ok. So now off to range to let some rounds off Thanks again to all who have taken the trouble to make suggestions M (slightly less miserable in wet S Wales)

Mea culpa ejector pins/ ejector springs it is then M duly chastised in cloudy south Wales

OK starting to see the light Rifle and bolt have both got the relevant proof marks As per advice above, large dollop of gun grease (well I think it is, I have had it 20 years and the writing has rubbed off) on the lugs, extractor pins and the extractor claw and it is stating to load a lot easier - but nothing like my TX3. I think that the problem is a) very strong extractor springs, b) a slightly off extractor claw, and c) you have to have exactly the right technique The extractor pins are still scratching the case as the bolt rotates into the closed position. Any one recommend a good grease? M ( a little happier, but still not satisfied in still wet S Wales)

Thanks for all the suggestions., and thanks to all who took the time to make said suggestions to answer some of the questions above, as in my previous posts The empty cases are brand new and sized in a brand new F/L sizing die I have tried standard ammunition - Winchester I will be returning the rifle as soon as the owner returns I agree that Sauer are crap at QC and how the hell did the proof house test it without chambering a cartridge!! - or doesn't proof require firing a proof load any more? M (pretty pissed off in wet S wales)

I am rapidly coming round to that - but how does one stand on the exchange - this rifle is now on my ticket - do I have to get another variation?

Yes, before I took it to the range I cleaned it and had a look down the bore with bore light. The ammo is winchester and the cases are PPU sized in a F/L die. Have ordered a Head Space bushing but they are out of stock at 1967 Spud. When I push the bolt forward on the case, the bolt stops about 2mm short. If I then exert straight line force on the bolt, it goes fully home, and closes fairly easily. If I then raise the handle, it goes back down easily, but if I extract and start again, then force is again required. This leads me to think it is a problem with the extractor not sliding under the rim? Or am I completely wrong and its all down to the chamber headspace being wrongly machined? Yes, its the light and lack of pixels. Sadly the dealer (also a friend) has gone on Holiday til next Saturday M (still pretty miserable in S Wales)

Brand new factory rifle - Sauer 100 Field shoot 308 win calibre, and yes both the rifle, brass and cartridges all say 380 win the two ejectors have very strong springs but seem ok movement wise, it takes a bit of effort to depress them, but if I remove the bolt and use a case I can depress them and clip under the extractor fairly easily. The bolt chambers the case, but unless I whack the bolt down, the case stays in the chamber when I withdraw the bolt. If I whack it down, then it all extracts. It is the whacking down that is giving the brass damage, but why I am at a loss

Hi, this one is outside my experience. New rifle, took to range with some shop ammo, unable to close bolt. Came home inserted bran new full sized case, could close bolt if I whacked it with heel of hand (loth to do that with live cartridge!!) Attached are photos of brass transfer to bolt face, and scratches to cartridge bases. Head space problem would surely just knock the shoulder back? M (even more miserable now)

Now Sold M

PM sent Cam Thanks Tony

Surplus to requirements Hornady Custom Grade 2 Die set. No shell holder, but complete with instruction leaflet. 223 Rem Calibre Sizer never been used, Bullet Seater used once Bought on a whim and never used in anger. More photos by e mail if required. PM for questions £35 posted in UK

Thanks for the info chaps, all good stuff and I now have a starting point on the Journey Great Stuff M still grinning in Sunny South Wales

Hi, starting a new project - decided to have a go at the longer range stuff (have shot my 223 up to 300 yards for a few years ) and take delivery of a new rifle in 308 Win tomorrow. Any recommendations for a good starting point for bullet weight for 600 to 800 yard stuff? Have only got H335 powder in stock at the moment, but will be sourcing something more suitable soon(N140, N150? or N540, N550?). Rifle is Sauer 100 Field shoot with 24 inch barrel. got a die set, brass, and some 150gn FMJBT on the way, so looking forward to having a play shortly! Any pointers, recommendations etc welcomed M grinning in sunny South Wales

Hi, I have one in an M&P 15-22. What Can I say? - its better than the factory trigger (6lbs+), but not as good as some after market triggers. Its cheaper than the other after market units, I think the old adage might be true here - "you get what you pay for" M

Hi, any one any experience of this rifle? I have had a brand new gen 2 24 inch barrelled one in 308Win offered at a knockdown price. Any one know the difference between Gen 2 and Gen 3? or is it like Tikka with T3 and T3X? My application would be medium distance shooting(up to 800 yards or so) M

Hi any one know if Colin is still in the Moderator business or has that gone too M

Hi plus 1 for the Hawke range of scopes - Hawke have improved greatly over recent years. I have an Endurance 6-24 illuminated with LC reticle, and at x20 the reticle fits the trajectory of my M&P exactly. No dialing just use the reticle lines for the range you are shooting at. Ideal in the field M

Hawke Airmax - cheap as chips, does the job, and is illuminated. Readily available retail and second hand. Mine is an old one with MoA turrets and a mil dot recticle(!) but they may have seen the light by now. I swap mine twixt air rifle and rimfire (QD rings) M