Catch-22

Anyone?

19 hours ago, ds1 said:

If you do it I would Vapor blast (aka wet blasting) as it leaves a higher quality surface than sand or bead blasting. I have only had DLC (which is hard) Vapor blasted from stainless surfaces.

Thanks, looking into it that does seem to be the best option. 
There’s a really good vapour blasting place not far from me, so I’ll speak to them.

thanks again!

Firstly, this is a pure vanity question. All my actions are nitrided but fancy a change.

Secondly, I understand that nitriding (and I’m assume the actions have been Salt Bath Nitrided QPQ) is a heat treatment which alters the metallurgical structure several microns deep. It is not a top coating. But the very top layer (the black you see) is the oxidised byproduct of the nitriding process.

With the above in mind, does anyone know if it’s possible to sand or bead blast the action to remove the top black oxidisation layer, hopefully to reveal the silver steel underneath? 
And I am aware the steel, even if it goes ‘silver’ is still nitrided.

Any experience with the above?

Cheers

23 hours ago, No i deer said:

Twelve thousandths neck wall is fine..

neckwall thickness really depends on what size the tight necked reamer cuts the chamber neck.

.307 bushing will be just fine..

personally I'd use a .306 bushing

Bushing down an extra 1 thousandths will work well for running it over a 1.5 thousandths neck tensions mandrel.. 

I run the mandrel through the case twice. 

Great, thank you for the advice, that’s super helpful! 

14 hours ago, Elwood said:

I've been shooting a .313 neck Shehane for years. I use a 6.5 expander on Lapua brass and then a 7mm, I use a coated expander and Imperial sizing wax applied on the inside of the neck with a cotton bud, less force is good.

If you going to use a PMA cutter then get their expander to match the pilot they supply, the PMA tool is very good, again it's what I use.

I turn to 12.5 and use a .307 or .308 bushing and then use a expander, this gives me a loaded round of .309

Dies, I use Newlon blanks, ask who ever is doing the work if they have the resize reamer.

They are extremely accurate fire forming, one of the most accurate rifles I have ever seen was someone fire forming Shehane brass. I used to fire form using cheap PPU ammo and Trail boss powder, unfortunately now unavailable. If I'm just shooting into a back stop I jam them, if I'm using them for practice I sit the bullet where it wants to be. Run a mild load as you're not doing much to fire form the case just blowing the side walls out 10 thou, look for 2850 fps.

Thanks very much Elwood for all the info and advice. I’ll take that into consideration, perhaps 12 thou necks is just a little too thin?!

One question, after fire forming and FL sizing brass from then on, do you continue to use the same 0.307 / 0.308 bushing, or do you go a size up?

I will look to the 2850fps range.

14 hours ago, Elwood said:

Get several bottles of the PMA neck turning lube, it's good.

Yes I’ve heard this too, will do.

11 hours ago, dorg said:

Make sure you trim all necks to a uniform length after expanding to get a consistent cut into the neck / shoulder junction.

yes that’s also really good advice, I won’t forget - thank you. 

I would be grateful for some advice please.

Ive got a .284 Shehane build in progress. But I’m new to neck turning. I think I’ve got what I need but would appreciate someone checking my logic/process please.

Reamer: .284 Shehane 0.313” neck

Process;

- Start with new 284 Lapua brass 
- Expand brass with 7mm/284 expander mandrel (Sinclair)
- Lube and turn necks to a 0.012” neck wall thickness. This should give a 0.004” clearance in a chamber cut with a 0.313” neck
- Anneal neck turned brass
- FL size brass with .305” bushing
- Load bullets to jam in throat (eg 0.015” jam). Use starting/mid range load (eg 54gn N165)
- Go shoot and fire form 
- Then usual deprime, tumble, anneal, expand necks, FL Size (should I use the same 0.305” bushing or perhaps go up to a 0.306 or 0.307” bushing??). 

For neck turning, I was thinking of the PMA cutting tool. There aren’t many die options, Whidden is the obvious. Otherwise I was thinking of a Cortina 284 Shehane and for seating a FCP Shehane arbor die.

Thoughts and advice anyone please??

Thank you.

Now SOLD.

Cheers

15 hours ago, david harvey said:

Would you take £120 posted

Sure. I’ll send you a PM. Cheers

Bump.

Bump.

Bump.

Any stock finishers out there?

Bump.

Price drop;

£45 per bag of 106x cases

or £120 for the lot (318x cases)

P&P at buyers cost.

It’s a shame you’re selling…the MPA comp chassis is infinitely more comfortable / ergonomic to use than the AI chassis…definitely more so than the AW thumb hole stocks.

Good luck with the sale!

I’m looking for a pro who will finish an F class wooden laminate stock.

I’m absolutely no expert, but I’ve heard mixed regarding Automotive clear coat finishes as I’m told they can shrink/chip/crack.

A 2 part Epoxy or Urethane finish (eg Simtec) with multiple sandings between coats, and final poly coat I’ve been told is the way to go. But again, I’m no expert.

Does anyone know of someone who does stock finishing like this? Ideally someone S Wales, Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, Somerset areas, but will happily send the stock further if needed.

Cheers 👍

Thanks for the question. 
I had bought the raw brass and prepped with the intention of using in a build which didn’t happen.

I did actually find the inside flash hole deburring helpful as a fair bit of burrs were indeed removed.

Anyway, for anyone actually wanting to buy the brass, it’s good quality and all the prep has been done.

Thanks!

I’ve got 318x cases of once fired RUAG 5.56mm NATO brass.

I have done the following to it;

- swaged primer pockets to remove Mil crimp. It is now reloadable/reprimable

- cleaned up primer pockets and deburred flash hole internally (from down inside case)

- wet tumbled

- annealed with my AMP

brass is NOT resized yet, but it’s ready to be FL sized, trimmed, primed and loaded.

Due to odd count, I’ll sell as the following;

ALL SOLD!

My .338 Norma Magnum wears an Area 419 Sidewinder brake. 4 ports, all varying degrees of reward rake.

It has as much recoil as my 6.5x47 without brake.

Also, you just need to learn how to handle an increase in recoil, like preloading the bipod etc. Just something you need to get used too.

Thank you again to all for the encouragements and links + advice re coming along and giving it a go. Thank you also for the Phoenix dates/details.

Unfortunately I won’t be able to attend the training course in March as I’ll be away with the kids in Florida during that time. But I’m going to reach out to the organisers and see if they can put me on the list for the next course.

But I think I’ll try and give the Phoenix in May a go. I won’t hold my breath for anything but last place, but it’s the learning experience that counts. 
If anyone else is considering doing the 300, 500, 600, 800, 900 & 1,000 Phoenix shoots for the first time in May as well, I’d happily pair up in the hope we could bumble through it together. 😂

Many thanks again…greatly appreciated!

12 hours ago, furrybean said:

 

GBFCA TRAINING WEEKEND 2024 (revised version).pdf 385.17 kB · 5 downloads

Many thanks for this Furrybean. It might need to be the next one that I visit as my build won’t be ready in time for March. But I very much appreciate it. I’d definitely like to attend this in future.

3 hours ago, No i deer said:

Go on have a go..

It's great fun and great competition 

Ha…thanks, I will do. I like a bit of competition to push you forward. Thanks again.

Thanks to all.

Sorry, I hadn’t meant to imply I’d be tempted to enter F class with the 6.5x47 with light 123gn bullets or the current setup I have at all. That would be a bit pointless.

i know I’d likely need to be shooting some flavour of 7mm with a 30-32” barrel, some sort of high magnification SFP scope. All the usual stuff.

I was merely wondering what level of accuracy and consistency one should have if wanting to start out in f class. I simply have no idea how my current shooting compares to what I should be aiming for / achieving if starting in f class. I guess the answer is the ability to hold about 1/4moa. 

Thanks again - especially the suggestion of a class. I’d definitely be interested in an f class training day. I’m unsure what ‘the phoenix’ is (is that a postal shoot? Or a club?) but I’d be tempted to learn more about that too.

Cheers

Thanks Elwood, really helpful info. Don’t worry, no bubble to be burst.

I didn’t realise about the difference in target - tbh I don’t really know which is the correct target to choose from the list in the Intasaro.

Thanks for the info re load. I can see what f class shooters talk about holding the waterline.

I think the load is ok, but could perhaps do with some tweaking for long range. The 123gn scenar are good but do start to float around when at 1,000. It seems pretty flat out to 600m previously but obviously not all loads that shoot well at short/midrange will do well at distance.

I think what’s really hurting is the 25x power scope, I just can’t see enough, and also shooting off the old bipod and bag. I can never truly get comfortable enough.

Maybe one day I’ll get setup for f class properly.

thanks again!

Hello Effers,

I am no F class shooter, never having tried it nor having the right rifle/setup etc.

But after a few trips to Bisley, where I can actually see how I’m shooting (thanks electronic targets!) I was wondering just how good do you need to be to be competitive if starting out in F class (F open).

Below are some typical targets at 1,000 at Bisley. Gun is my 6.5x47 Impact, 26” barrel and shooting off bipod and rear bag.

The target which opened up at the end was a sudden shift in both direction and strength of wind which caught me out. The other clean target was a very calm, if wet day about 4 weeks ago.

I’m crap at reading the wind, which is possibly the biggest limiting by factor. But maybe one day I’ll get myself a .284w or similar flavour with all the proper rests, which all should help.

But just wondering what sort of group size/consistency I should be aiming for if wanting to dip my toe in F Open?

Cheers!