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chaz

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Posts posted by chaz

  1. I have a Daystate Air Ranger FAC in .25 running at around 45 ft/lb's. It's a work of art. The trigger is a beautiful 2 stage, and it has a lovely walnut stock. But I'd like to try and get hold of some hammer spring guides with a different thickness to lower the power down to around 35 ft/lb's. I must admit, I would love a Bullpup like the FX Impact, but can't be arsed to go through the hassle of selling my Air Ranger.

     

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  2. Hi folks,

    As above, I'm thinking of fitting a regulator to my Daystate Air Ranger FAC in .25 calibre. At the moment I only fill to the sweet spot to get as many accurate shots as I can before the velocity drops and accuracy also drops. Which isn't a lot in a 44 ft/lbs gun... Although I forget how many to be honest, apart from I'd like a few more.... I know I can lower the power with lighter slugs/pellets and bushings, to ease the load on the spring....

    What I'd like to know is, If I fitted, or had fitted, a regulator, would I get many more shots, and would I get a really good flat (ish) power curve until the air dropped dramatically, compared to now at 35 ft/lbs....??

    Bearing in mind, that it's a .25 calibre, would I end up with a poor flat trajectory, If I went ahead with a regulator, but dropped the power to around 35 ft/lbs?

    Any constructive device appreciated,

    Cheers.

    Chaz.

  3. I did use Remington Subs a long time ago. But I found that every now and then there will be a high velocity round amongst the subs. Maybe 5 or 6 out of every 50 round box. If I'm plinking, I use the Remington's. I'll have the subs in well under an inch at a 50 yard zero. Then I hear a loud crack and always found that shot to be on target horizontally, but consistently an inch higher. But they were very cheap at the time, and thankfully I only bought 200. My preferred round is the black box 42 grain hollow point Winchester Subs. I've never had a "crack" with one of those and they're very accurate in my CZ 452. They seem to hit hard, and have a deep hollow point which drops your prey instantly If I do my bit. The box says 1065 fps, but I've never put one through my Chronograph. Not cheap, but in my opinion nothing ever is at Bromsgrove Shooting Supplies....

  4. Hi folks,

    I've had a letter from the West Mercia Police Firearms Dept, reminding me of my up and coming renewal in September.

    But there is also an attached letter stating I have to pay for a medical report. (I expected that)

    However, also in the letter is an odd vague (No doubt deliberately vague) section that states they will need me, "to provide a factual medical report" from my GP.  I have spoken with my GP today, (Top bloke) and he states there is a new policy, and he can do it in a way that gets around paying for it, but he basically thinks they want a copy of the whole of my medical history. Is that right? Surely they are only entitled to anything relevant since my last Certificates were issued?? I did call West Mercia Firearms Dept, but as usual the phones are only manned 2 hours a day. BASC were busy so I had to leave a message for them to call me back.

    I'm frustrated as hell! It get's a little harder every time I have to renew my Certificates.

    Any constructive replies would be welcome, especially from anyone who has recently renewed and gone through this process....

    Cheers

    Chaz.

  5. Hi Popsbengo.

    The X4 M5 fixing bolts are actually threaded grub screws of the same width from top to bottom, and do not screw into the rifle's action rail at all. The Apex rail has to slide over and under the actions picatinny rail. Then by tightening the grub screws up on the Apex riser rail, they then can either be screwed down onto the top or bottom of the actions o/e rail system. This then forces the Apex rail to pull up tighter underneath the more you screw down. If that makes sense?

    And embarrassingly I didn't look on the Tikka site, just the Apex UK site today.... I suppose as I'm not 100% sure the grub screws are steel, although thinking about it, they're highly likely to be.

    And thanks for the tip on not much oil and use a dab of thread-lock.

  6. Hi folks,

    I am in the process of swapping scopes about. And for various reasons I ended up having an APEX UK steel picatinny Riser on my Tikka TAC1 . I've have the rifle a few years but I've not used it that much. Anyway, this morning I had to remove the riser and put it back on, but I can't recall what the torque force should be. Could anyone enlighten me with the torque? I was thinking around 35 - 40 LBS. ???

    Any constructive advice appreciated.

    Just to add, I've made several calls to Apex UK with no reply....

    Cheers.

    Chaz.

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