Adamdavi3s

Just now, Scotch_egg said:

It’s really good to know the rim thickness is so consistent now days. 

Yeah I was really surprised to be honest, I was also hoping it might count for some of my fliers! 

23 hours ago, Scotch_egg said:

Do you still measure “rim” thickness?

I tested my SK long range match and it was all within one thou so IMHO not worth the additional effort, the “seating depth” is worth persisting with IMHO.

So I tested 300 Eley Match and it had less variation than the SK LRM with only 5thou difference rather than the 8 observed with the SK.
However IMHO it did not shoot as well through the rifle once sorted as the SK did, more vertical deviation, but the seating depth was much less, averaging 0.015 vs the SK 0.025. I didn’t get the failures to fire like I did with the team.

80 Shots of match over the chrono gave an ES of 57, the 30 SK I tried gave me 34.

Interestingly using the PITA single shot sled for the RPRR was actually a PITA with match, to the point I was going to bin it as I assumed it was knackered. But then I decided to shoot the 30 SK and every round went in silky smooth.

Don’t get me wrong, match shot well (and it should for the price) but I’ll be sticking with SK on this rifle if the batches prove to be consistent. 

Message sent regarding grips 👍

On 7/10/2021 at 2:33 PM, terryh said:

 

the 50 yards range might not be 'up' for sorting the tuner , think I'll use the local indoor 100yard as this will amplify differences?

 

 

Is there much point in tuning those? 🤣

My understanding is that you tune to a range, it never made a lot of sense to me but apparently a 50y tune can be different to a 100y tune with the same rifle and ammo 

7 hours ago, No i deer said:

Just buy half a dozen different makes and try them and see which shoots best.. that's what I did and the eley match were superb..

That's the best my CZ452 has shot in 20 years of owning it

Yep that was the starting point! I think my list was 

Team, Match, SK Standard Plus, SK Long Range Match, Contact, RWS R100, Action, RWS HP subs 

9 hours ago, terryh said:

The concentricity gauge is for the munitions, the tuner is for the rifle, think they are mutually exclusive. 
 

 

I hadn’t considered that actually, I just assumed that sorting ammo could only make x difference and the tuner might not improve that, but you’re right of course and the two working together should be the best outcome.
I’m just not sure if I’m throwing good money after bad with the RPRR, it’s hardly a top grade rifle, but it’s fun finding out! 

1 hour ago, terryh said:

Ad3

Tuner once setup should make the groups ‘rounder’, least that has been my previous experience.

Thank you re Neco, might try to sort one?

Have you looked at concentricity gauging using something like the Nielsen tool? Having measured some reasonable quality ammo found a good few that were outliers.

T

I had considered the hornady concentricity tool…. But I’ve got enough variables at the moment! 
 

I can recommend the gauge, it doesn’t take long to sort the ammo and I’m pretty sure it’s an improvement, but it’s not cheap.
I’m wondering if the gauge and tuner are kind of overkill and you don’t need both… but let’s see! 
 

On 6/26/2021 at 6:47 AM, terryh said:

Ad3

Nice efforts re testing. Think the 22rf needs a bit more attention to deliver the best out of it.

Be interesting to see your results at 100, if your initial findings follow thru 🤔

have you decided on what method to set up your tuner, just about to set up a new rifle a d tuner myself, have used the Purdey Rx  previously but think the Hopewell looks more ‘solid’?

Can I ask where you obtained the the G3 rim to ogive tool?

Good luck

Terry

 

I agree, I spend time working up loads for my centre fires so why not for the rimfire which I spend more time shooting at the moment! The gauge was an import from Neconos who just happened to have a new batch of them. 

I had a very quick fiddle with the tuner just to see if it made any difference, I definitely detuned the rifle just fine!! I need more time to play as I’m throwing too many variables around at once now! 
Really I need to reconfirm the sorting results again at 50 and then at 100 and then introduce the tuner.
 

I shot some groups at 100, but there are still rounds going where they shouldn’t, if you know what I mean, you hear it and you just know it’s going to be off. 

One group was .6” at 100 but that was a one off, most are around the inch.

I shot the mini f-class targets in a bit of a rush which gave me 10shot groups in the 1.3” region, we did have some very light gusts which could account for some of the lateral movement, plus human factors (i.e me flinching etc)

My next steps are

1- measure up a new batch and tighten up my tolerances, previously I’d take anything from say 0.0245 to 0.254 and call that “0.025”. I’m then going to sort these by rim thickness by using a hornady gauge as well. 

2- shoot these at both 50 and 100 along with control groups on the stillest possible day I can get

3- see if I can make a consistent difference with the tuner at 50 (I’ll be using hopewell) 

4- see if the tuned rifle can handle a wider variation of seating depths 

I’m aiming for consistent 1 MOA results, maybe I am dreaming with the RPRR

Sold thank you 

All,

Decided to go with 6mm Creed instead so I have a set of brand new unopened dies in 6mm ARC 

£40 posted 

All,

Been out of touch with PRL during covid but apparently it seems it’s all change in the  running of PRL in the UK.

Does anyone know if .22PRL is still being planned? Quite fancied a crack at it 

My RPRR used to love Edge, but I’ve had horrible problems with TEAM since the switch, I’d say about 1:5 fliers and supersonics as well as probably at least 1:10 not firing at all (some only on the 3rd try) , as people have said before.

so I switched to SK Long Range Match after testing a load of ammo at 50 and 100 and I’ve gone proper “Norbert” on it with a G3 rim to “ogive” gauge. Mostlybecause I like data and I spend the time with my full bore reloading so why not with this.

This was my test rig and results from Sat at 50y, I did have 0-5mph winds but it was good as I was going to get. 
 

Anyone who says these aren’t accurate….. I’ve spent an hour or so getting mine right, put a JARD trigger in as the action fell off a bench and snapped the factory one (which was a dog anyway, compared to other RPRs I’ve shot), I’ve aluminium foil bedded it and torqued the action screws, nothing else. It still shoots about 10MOA left (with whatever scope / rings) but nothing some Burris Signature rings hasn’t solved. 

To be fair the SK only had a variance of about 8thou across the whole 350 I measured so I am not sure its made a huge difference, but the 0.025/6 length seems to be best and grouping them into lengths has defo improved consistency 

These are all (except the second 32) five shot groups and that one group with the 0.026” “OAL” measures about 0.275” edge to edge

I warmed up with 10 shots then I shot the control group, then a bunch of the others, then a control and a final batch of 0.025 as it seemed the best. 

I was seeing "Split groups" with SK as I can see from some other photos in this thread, and I think I've proved that the length of the round could be causing it as I did get minor POI shift in my tests as the length changed and it seemed to be on elevation. The take away seems to be that they're all accurate if they're shot in groups of length.  

I also learned that after only a few mins of cool down (literally enough time to walk to the target and back) the first shot was 2MOA left, each of the three times. Good data to know. 

Next test is out to 100 with an ADT TUNER 

Oh it’s all helpful, but I’ll true it up from real world. Good catch though, I’ve got a G1 figure for an RA4 curve there which is incorrectly giving me an extra 4MOA

At the moment I’m only going on what Strelok tells me, but I’ve only verified it to 100y so far 

At 20x the ret gives me plenty so hopefully it’ll be ok, it’s only a couple of times a year so it’s no great loss if it doesn’t work! 

Thank you, it’s about 60MOA and the vortex has 50 on the turret and 10 on the ret at 40x so it’ll be close. Being SFP though I can dial it back to get more out of the ret. shooting 400 with the .22 is a “handful of times a year thing” most of my shooting with the .22 will be 100y and I want a benchrest scope. I miss the x36 sightron I used to have on it 

ive gone with a used GE and I am glad I did, it’s absolutely incredible for the weight! 
 

I already shoot LR and ELR with full bore and run scopes in the 24-36 range 👍

Yes please 

I am swaying towards the vortex for the weight saving to be honest, it’s going on a ruger precision rimfire which isn’t a heavyweight at all. 

I prefer the Stryker DLS-1 ret from what I can see but the ECR-1 looks like it would just about have enough Subtensions to do the maths required. 
 

I know it’s subjective but has anyone looked through both and can offer a glass comparison?
I’ll be honest I have an Althlon Ares, a IOR 40mm 9-36 and a Element Helix and I can barely tell the difference in good light. They’re all much better than my old sightron siii were, which looked muddy in comparison to me 

Hi All,

Has anyone compared the Stryker 5-50 next to the golden eagle? 
I am toying with something benchresty for my .22, mostly for 100y mini F class but will be used out to 400.

 The only thing I’ve used with that kind of mag range before was a sightron siii 10-50 but I’m guessing either of these will be a step up. 

I like the rets in both (floating dot), I’m not convinced about the weight of the Stryker but the 34mm tube might be worth it? 
 

I’m currently using a 6-24 which is OK, but I miss the reach of the sightron 36x I had before, BUT that didn’t have anywhere near the adjustment to get to 400

Sold.

Up

Black dog magazines

What you see is what you get, I have a bunch and my AR just prefers the steel lip ones so getting rid of these spares.

The shorter mag is a cut down longer mag from what I can tell.

£65 posted the lot? 
 

16 hours ago, brown dog said:

Is the extractor clipping over the rim of the round? Or struggling to get over it and holding the bolt open by a fraction of a mm?

I think it'll be an extractor issue.   Pop it out. Clean it. Check the extractor spring.  Look to see if it slips easily over a chambered round's rim to grab it.

 

Cool thank you, I’ve not delved into the bolt in a lot of detail yet, I’m aware it’s very different to the .223 one. 
 It looks like it’s fully closing but I think you could be correct and it’s just not quite closing enough for the firing pin to engage

Proper delve into it this weekend so I can understand how it works. I also have some 22 snap caps to assist 

Just now, TC said:

Try to ascertain if the underside of the bolt is dragging on the mag lips - a swipe with a sharpie maybe...

Does the bolt cycle differently with and without a mag?

I had a similar problem with a spikes upper on my existing lower and it just needed a tad taking off the top of each mag.  The slight drag was slowing the bolt just enough to cause an issue.

It doesn’t feel different but that is a good shout, I’ll sharpie the mag up and see how it goes thank you! 
 

Ok tried it with the metal lip mags and got no FTF during cycling, but still the first round never seated properly. 

Trade agreed with the man above