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Bangbangman

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Posts posted by Bangbangman

  1. 1 hour ago, Popsbengo said:

    all you need now is some Hornady LEVERevolution full power zombie stoppers,  give yer' shoulder a work out 😁

    Watch the eyebrow!

    I cast my own zombie slayers, 300-460gr. 

    Gets your attention when you squeeze the trigger (makes eyebrow nervous!)

    2-BA525-A8-7-DF1-4-A6-F-87-FF-AE5-BB8693

    The green with red tips in these batches were my favourite novelty zombie boolits!

    E5-E4-A641-84-C0-466-E-9-E24-CE3-BB2279-
     
    39-B61890-5-D63-47-AC-9801-020-CB3866938

     

     

  2. Traditionalists, have a bucket handy...

     

    As much as I love my Marlin GSBL 1895 lever-action in 45-70Govt, I had an itch to scratch and EVERYTHING has to be tactical, right?!

     

    Before:

     

    46-BE4743-71-BD-47-E3-BEAC-F1850-A7-F556

    During:

     

    Old forearm tenon:

    E0-F7227-A-D70-B-4-DC2-A61-A-B22-C232-B3

     

    New forearm tenon (needed lapping to fit):

     

    90-B937-F8-04-D2-437-A-A9-AB-D171181-D7-

    F6-C275-DB-ABC9-4-F4-C-97-E4-3-FE0616027

     

    After:

     

    E8365698-18-EF-463-B-AA8-B-A14-C9011540-

    518-BD45-B-3715-4834-8197-4-A8-DF85-FA34

    F74-F7092-2-D17-43-EE-946-D-ED78101-CD0-

     

    M-Lok compatible handguard with 3 round holder (mag tube holds 6), blemished laminate stock into which I've fitted a QD flush cup for sling mount.

     

    There's another part on the way, hopefully, and I want to fit a red-dot sight or smaller 1-6x scope instead of this 4.5-14x40 Leupold.

    It will be interesting to see if the new forend will improve the thermal drift I encounter (rifle is very accurate for a lever gun if I let it cool between shots) 

     

    Traditionalists won't like it but I think it'll fit in better with future post-apocalyptic fashions. 

  3. I've been using the gen 1 Delta Stryker 4.5-30x56 and 5-50x56 on my PRS and ELR rifles, respectively.

     

    They have served me well: couple of first place ELR trophies (in minor comps). Same can't be said for PRS: mid-table placings. Scope is absolutely fine but it can't compensate for wobble! 

     

    Did Tall tests and box tests: tracking is true/repeatable and reticles not canted.

     

    My only complaint is the parallax adjustment could be less stiff and finer at long range. It doesn't affect performance, though. 

  4. 12 hours ago, thekeeper said:

    I like the look of the bushtool 

    first time I have looked at these and hey look really good

     

    (Warning- gratuitous, pic-heavy, knife-bore ramble! Some hunting pics/dead animals)

     

    That design is indeed good: I had a Skookum Bushtool in CPM-3V (my all-time favourite carbon steel for knives; almost stainless, v tough, takes a great, stable edge.)

    IMG_5874.jpg

    I once reviewed an identical knife by Rob J EVs, which had a hex drive socket incorporated into a central hole in the handle and tang. It was a good knife: not too big,  like some bushcraft knife offerings.

    My daughter modelling it with a bbq'd pigeon:

    IMG-5402.jpg

    IMG_8058.jpg

    While I like the design, which is very close to Mors Kochanski's idea of the ideal bushcraft knife, I find I prefer a slightly longer, less upswept blade (a slight drop point.)

     

    My most comfortable, carbon steel bushcraft knife which fits that description is the Spyderco one designed by Chris Claycomb. 

    IMG_5882.jpg

    IMG_5883.jpg

     

    On the other hand, this is my preferred style for carving/wood work: a simple scandi style I made with some beautiful, stabilised maple that has fantastic chattoyance, (blade by JPieterson?):

    IMG-5301.jpg

    IMG-5298.jpg

    IMG_8006.jpg

     

    However this type of handle is not so good for wet-work; nasty tendency for one's hand to slip forward onto the blade if the tip snags. I also feel nervous, probably unnecessarily, about battoning hidden-tang/scandi-style knives.

    My favourite all round stainless knife is a Stuart Mitchell "NAFOK" in SF100. I've been down the rabbit-hole of hyper-steels (I still have a Farid in CPM-Rex 121) and realised they don't  make for good REAL-WORLD use fixed blades. SF100, with its basic chemistry, is the perfect blend of corrosion resistance, edge-stability, ease of sharpening and toughness. This one has tapered tang with red vulcanised-fibre liners and looks much better than my pics show. Perfect balance, too.

    3-A79-BB2-D-FC2-E-4071-892-F-BE47-EA2-DB

    In case you are wondering, "NAFOK" stands for "Not Another F**king Outdoors Knife".

     

    My most carried non-stainless bushcraft knife is this small, simple O1, cocobolo tool. It's the first knife I made from scratch and has the heads from the rounds i used to take my first two deer set  in the handle (I reprimed with oil-soaked primers because I thought it would look better, I regret this for two reasons...) Might be a bit small for a large-handed adult but can do most tasks, fits in a pocket and doesn't catch on things when sheathed on the belt.

    IMG_5794.jpg

    IMG_5519.jpg

    IMG_8031.jpg

     

    I've heard it said that the best knife for the job is the one you have on you. This is very true- I've used a UK legal penknife to gralloch and later process a fallow that unwisely appeared when I'd just packed up after a field zeroing.  Not the best tool for the job but it worked. 

    In a similar vein, I once took a Stu Mitchell integral steak knife out with me and used that for gralloch, skin and butcher. Why? Just because. Because I wanted to try it out and maybe learn something (I learnt that you can do it but there are better tools for the job!)

    IMG_5837.jpg

    IMG_5848.jpg

    Ironically, I find the combat-oriented Spyderco Warrior in H1 makes an excellent Stalking knife and, once you're used to it, a perfectly useable bushcraft knife! 

    734AA103-71D9-4324-8D10-346EEF1B522C.jpg

    The pronounced belly of the blade doesn't favour whittling, but the point is still almost on the axis of the handle. This makes the tip controllable and much more useful than the blade shape would suggest. The guard and finger grooves are a mixed blessing- limit grip options but very secure. The serrated section of the spine is good for cutting cordage, de-legging/heading but not stripping bark etc.
     

    497-F8337-524-E-486-F-8-DAB-A582-D598-F3

    53384-FF1-FFD2-4-E13-9478-E41-AE7-C519-B

    8-FBA0-E16-E869-4731-99-DD-407-F20-EB0-B

    973-BBF3-A-1-D69-4-A56-A001-6387-CDEB959

    Pretty versatile for such a "focused" knife and led me to challenge what I thought I knew about good designs for bushcraft. Totally impervious to rust, too.

    So, oddities like the Warrior aside, I reckon my perfect bushcraft knife would be either the Chris Claycomb designed Spyderco Bushcraft or the Stuart Mitchell NAFOK in either CPM3V or SF100. 

    Or just get a Mora.

     

    Idle rambling over. 

     

     

  5. 32 minutes ago, Roy W said:

    with 77 TMKs, mine Chrono at 2730 out of an 18" barrel at 24.5 grains of RS52, with no obvious pressure signs. 

    I suppose there are bound to be variations in different rifles, so the OP should build up etc etc

     

    Aye. Not doubting you: you know your onions and don't seem to be fighting stiff extractions on the firing point!

  6. On 2/11/2022 at 8:37 PM, banus02 said:

    good evening, could one of the crs shooters pass me the contact details and some more information as to what is involved,cost etc is this something for some one my age ,64 this year is is it more a younger persons sport? thank you

    While some movement is involved, age is certainly not a barrier: there are many competitors older than you. 

    Some have new hips and knees, some are waiting (one has just had a new hip in the last week or so.) 

    Definitely not exclusively a "young person's" sport!

     

     

  7. 4 hours ago, terryh said:

    My club ran a 100 yard target comp yesterday on a local range. Unlimited sighters and 5 x 10 round targets. Front rest allowed but no rear support ( butt in shoulder clear of ground/ bench. Not too much wind around but time limit put pressure on.

    Rifles was in all down to operator interference I’m afraid 😱 

    7832D01A-EDBC-4914-B803-1E6E7BFF6575.thumb.jpeg.07f8dc3e13cedb6ce695545df3558f97.jpeg

    I'd say the operator interference worked out very nicely!

  8. Welcome to CSR, I hope. It's a hoot and will improve your skills into the bargain.

     

    For starting out, just use what you've got. I started out with my 243Win deer rifle.

    Don't need expensive ammo, it's a waste. 

    Muzzle brake can help tame recoil for positional shooting without much weight, assuming muzzle is threaded. Mod works but usually heavier, longer, expensive consumable and heat=mirage.

    Practice deploying your bipod for practical class (has to be folded at start of practice unless starting prone.

     

    Broadly speaking, lower mag scope is better than higher. It's tempting to crank mag up for prone stages but this can lead to cross lane shooting, particularly on "moving" target stages.

    NRA can rent out a suitable firearm, I believe.

    You'll find your fellow competitors will be glad to help you along. 

  9.  

    I picked up a Bergara B14R 22LR rifle from C2Precision a couple of weeks ago.

     

    9832F871-5329-470E-AF84-B8328449B09C.jpg

     

    It's intended to mimic my PRS rifle (see pic above), as a "trainer" and for PRS22 comps. Might get used for the odd rabbit. Has same chassis, rail, grip and trigger as its bigger brother.

     

    Had a chance to stretch its legs out to 262m. Have to say I'm impressed with it. Bolt closure was a bit stiff/notchy but has been smoothed-out with some gentle fettling and break-in.

     

    Anyone else like to shoot rimfire at "long range"? Do you think the concept of a 22LR "trainer" is valid or flawed to the point of useless? (Either way, it's good, cheap fun!)

    Video of the antics.

    https://youtu.be/X_Oxv9o2RbM

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