srvet Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 It feed dummy rounds impeccably. I anticipate it may shoot ok... I have screw cut it - you may have spotted the thread cap.. I won't be using a moderator though. Still awaiting dies, so no range testing yet, it will be unfettered by bipod too, strictly front bag or rolled up coat only... Not 100% sure on the scope at moment, undecided on keeping the 3-13 Classik or changing to a simpler Leup or a 42mm objective of some sort. Think the current scope make it look a little "top heavy" Can lend you a deerstalker hat to add to the ambience of the maiden voyage should you wish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Will be having maiden voyage this weekend now I have sourced the replacement bolt slide spring. New scope fits a treat thank you Simon - the 42 mm objective is far fitting to such classic lines. I may ask you to accompany me if you have time, I feel the need for a bearer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srvet Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Will be having maiden voyage this weekend now I have sourced the replacement bolt slide spring. New scope fits a treat thank you Simon - the 42 mm objective is far fitting to such classic lines. I may ask you to accompany me if you have time, I feel the need for a bearer Yes Bwana! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 So after nearly 5 months of not finding the time to shoot the Rigby, I took it out yesterday - I changed the scope from a S&B 3-12 x 50 to a 3-12 x 42 (both Klassiks and both 30 mm tubes) I felt that the 42mm objective looked better on the gun than the larger (bulky) 50mm model. Rings are Sako Optilock by the way with old style double dovetail. Sadly out of focus, but a reminder why I love this stock so much: Anyway, I boresighted - or tried to at 100 mfrs. Problem 1 - not enough windage on the S7B to bring the ret into the centre of the target…... I stripped off the scope and rings to check all was correct and nothing moving the scope off line - nothing interfering.. Re mounted the rings (these are one piece dovetailed bases and only go one way on the gun. Re-fitted the scope in the optilock plastic rings turing the ring 180 degrees to see if that helped (though the rings are new).. Boresighted again. Same problem, run out of windage. It looked like on full magnification that the crosshairs were 12 inches of windage missing.. Nothing I can do to correct that and I didn't have any suitable material to shim the scope across - not something I really way to do either. So I set up a false target on the right of the main target and fired a couple of rounds to see how the "old girl" shoots I was using 140g Prohunters, 42.5g Accurate 2520 ball powder and Fed Match primer…Once fired full length resized Federal Brass Guess she shoots well enough, now I have to try and resolve the scope / mount alignment issue. The simplest idea would be to use a shim - but I don't want to stress the scope tube. Second idea is change the mounts - anyone know if windage adjustable mounts are available for Sako Av actions? Thirdly is re machine the standard mount and make them windage adjustable….. Fourth is buy another scope with more windage... Regardless of this problem, I'm more than happy with how it shoots. First three rounds after proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Offroad Gary Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Try a set of 2 piece optilocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW58 Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Some EAW fixed mounts have windage adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17 Rem Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 You have the mounts in the wrong place. That is definitely causing your windage issue. The rear one needs to be further back- the arrestor stud is clearly missing from the rear one, but that rear mount needs to be right at the back. The front one needs to be around the centre of the forward part of the rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotch_egg Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 The one piece mounts suit the rifle. Get the tools out and make it work, you certainly have the skill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 You have the mounts in the wrong place. That is definitely causing your windage issue. The rear one needs to be further back- the arrestor stud is clearly missing from the rear one, but that rear mount needs to be right at the back. The front one needs to be around the centre of the forward part of the rail. Thanks for the advice, i'll try spacing them as you say - there was no arrestor stud, i'll make one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalua Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 You have the mounts in the wrong place. That is definitely causing your windage issue. The rear one needs to be further back- the arrestor stud is clearly missing from the rear one, but that rear mount needs to be right at the back. The front one needs to be around the centre of the forward part of the rail. The mounts certainly look odd-spaced. My first thought is that you might have two front-mounts, rather than a front and a rear - but that would probably be fairly obvious... The rear mount should have an arrestor-stud, as 17 Rem says. The taper goes from about 12mm at the back to 12.5mm at the front. measured from the bottom lip of the dovetailed bit to the flat bits next to the moving dovetail bit. The same measurements on the front mount are about 16.5mm and 17.4mm. The instruction with the set I've got suggest that one should start with the front mount in the middle of the mounting. Moving forward 1mm from there alters the POI about 1" right at 100yds. 1mm back does the same to the left. This is suggested as a method of solving the run-out-of-windage problem. The rear mount, again as 17Rem says, should be flush with the back of the action, which is where it would be if the stud were in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ive machined an arrestor stud and moved the rear (which is correct) into the right place. There is no available movement on the forward mount due to the objective and ocular spacing and the now set position of the rear mount. I still have no available windage. I'll make something that will work - either shimming the tube or i'll split the rear mount and make it into a windage adjustable…. (or just buy newer optilocks) Rifle still shoots well though Older rifles are frustrating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalua Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ha! Looking at the pics again, I see what you mean re. the lack of room to move the forward mount. Are there 'scopes with longer tubes? How about a nice plain 1" 6x42? Sometimes, less is more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Long action receiver - 6 x 42 not an option nor will ever be I could fit my March FX 5 - 40 x 56 on it…that would set the purists aflame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalua Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Is not the parallel bit of tube on a 1" S&B 6x42 Klassik a little longer than that on your variable? I've got one sitting happily on my 75 IV - but perhaps that action is a little shorter than the L61? My old SAKO .308 has a similarly-old S&B 6X42 (pre-Klassik) on, and that has a parallel tube over 150mm long. One of those would certainly look the part... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17 Rem Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ive machined an arrestor stud and moved the rear (which is correct) into the right place. There is no available movement on the forward mount due to the objective and ocular spacing and the now set position of the rear mount. I still have no available windage. I'll make something that will work - either shimming the tube or i'll split the rear mount and make it into a windage adjustable…. (or just buy newer optilocks) Rifle still shoots well though Older rifles are frustrating! I doubt that newer mounts are going to help you. Why not just put a scope with a longer body on it so that you can put the mounts where they're supposed to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 The mounts are now where they are supposed to be - the rear is fitted with an arrestor stud and in the correct position. The front mount is fitted to the dovetail as far forwards as it will go and the scope is in the correct position for eye relief (as it was initially) This has made no difference to windage at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalua Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I forgot to ask: which side of the POA is the POI currently, and how far? I've also forgotten to say how much I admire the rifle - which to my eye is very appealing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17 Rem Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 The mounts are now where they are supposed to be - the rear is fitted with an arrestor stud and in the correct position. The front mount is fitted to the dovetail as far forwards as it will go and the scope is in the correct position for eye relief (as it was initially) This has made no difference to windage at all. So how far forward of the port have you managed to get that front mount? Is it anywhere near the centre of the forward portion of the rail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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