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Hi all

 

Simple question with regard to Bedding a Remmy Action into a McMillan stock.

 

Is it advisable to bed the first inch or so of the Barrel in front of the Recoil lug or should the barrel just hang free from a Bedded Action?

 

The Barrel in question has a 3 inch shank with a straight taper down to .750 at 26 inch.

 

Its a meaty one but not like a scaffolding pole :)

 

Any advice will be gratefully received.

 

Thank You

 

Nick.

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Thank you very much for the replies lads. It would seem that an inch or so is the way to go.

 

If the action is already bedded is it ok to just bedd that section of the barrel or should i machine the existing bedding out and start the whole job from scratch?

 

Thanks Gents.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Glen

Thank you for the link. Very interesting and i note that the Author free floated in front of the recoil lug.

I think, having read several articles and posts, that there is more than one way to do a correct and successfull Bedding job.

 

Cheers.

 

Nick.

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Its pretty standard to add .010" of tape to the front and side edges of the lug, especially on Remingtons with standard (factory lugs), due to them not being square.

 

Also the only part of the lug that is doing any work is the rearward face.

 

Rifles with surface ground lugs dont in general require taping.

 

Neil (Dasherman) makes Rem replacement lugs with an angle on the forward face which assists tremendoulsy when removing actions from bedded stocks - similar to the Tikka shape in style, it allows immediate release. (I know what I mean)

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Ronin

I often wondered why they taped the sides of the recoil lug. My way of thinking is that as a bullet travels down a barrel it produces a torque effect that tries to twist the barrelled action in the bedding. Surely a lug fully bedded on its sides will resist this better???

Is this train of thought flawed in anyway?

 

Nick.

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Very often on american forums, one popular named riflesmith shows a method and everyone

copies it without thinking.

Never understood the theorie behind "half-bedding". maybe for a "half-smith"

 

edi

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Very often on american forums, one popular named riflesmith shows a method and everyone

copies it without thinking.

Never understood the theorie behind "half-bedding". maybe for a "half-smith"

 

edi

 

Ain't that the truth! B)

 

I suppose the side to side torque effect would exist, but then again, as long as its consistent, it really doesn't matter.

 

As to the angled recoil lugs, that makes really good common sense (like a 10/22 or Howa action), the bevel on the front side of the lug does greatly aid in getting the receiver out of the stock, while still having a firmly bedded and solid stock fit. I too, like most here, prefer a completely bedded action. If the recoil lug is warped (and it is affecting accuracy) then I would think it needs to be replaced, not lived with. Like most engineering solutions, a "work around" generally causes more work (and frustration) in the long run than just fixing the core problem...

 

JMTCW...

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Ronin

I often wondered why they taped the sides of the recoil lug. My way of thinking is that as a bullet travels down a barrel it produces a torque effect that tries to twist the barrelled action in the bedding. Surely a lug fully bedded on its sides will resist this better???

Is this train of thought flawed in anyway?

 

Nick.

 

 

The taping of the forward and side of the lug was really to give some tolerance for removing the action from bedded stocks (in the case of rifles without surface ground lugs, which may not be straight - this leads to problems getting the action out of the stock if you dont do it....

 

I personally do not tape lugs on anything other than rifles that are rebarrelled or bedded with the standard factory lug.

 

(read into this Rem 700's)

 

Torque twist - yes sure it does have some effect, but, the effect is minimal IMO, with most calibres.

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