Redding S type Dies

[redding]

Hi

A bit of advice please, Do I need to use the expander button that comes with a Redding Type "S" Die I intend ordering

I do not, and have no intention of neck turning, I am just trying to get consistent neck tension without having to crimp reloads.

The reason I ask is that the expander button on the standard die seems a bit brutal and I suspect it distorts the case dimensions.

Thanks in advance

[jcampbellsmith]

As in many aspects of reloading there a variety of possible approaches. I have the expander ball installed on all my bushing dies, however I know some folk remove the expander ball.

I suggest you try both options and see what works best for you.

Good luck.

JCS

[redding]

OK thanks, I,ll load a few with & without and see what grouping is like then

[Popsbengo]

I use a Redding "S" die for .338, I remove the expander ball but I use a separate expander die after knocking back the shoulders 2' and resizing the neck.  That gives me excellent repeatable neck tension (annealed Lapua brass only).  I have lapped the mandrel to achieve a polished finish at a dimension that works for me.

[baldie]

What you have to remember with any bush, is that it will only size and push around the neck material that is there. The inside, and outside of a case neck are never concentric to each other. Bushes work good, they work even better when a clean up skim, simply to remove high spots off the neck, is done.

I love , and use the redding full length S type die. You can set the minimum amount of shoulder bump easily, and have whatever neck tension you wish, via the bush.

[Popsbengo]

30 minutes ago, baldie said:

What you have to remember with any bush, is that it will only size and push around the neck material that is there. The inside, and outside of a case neck are never concentric to each other. Bushes work good, they work even better when a clean up skim, simply to remove high spots off the neck, is done.

I love , and use the redding full length S type die. You can set the minimum amount of shoulder bump easily, and have whatever neck tension you wish, via the bush.

I agree, I have found a benefit to just 'cleaning up' the outside of the case on .308.  From new, I neck turn just sufficient to equalise the neck thickness, about .001" removed from typically 0.015" neck thickness, (I use a Redding gauge).

I'm not sold on the need to bump back the case every time on a .308 and as I use only one .308 rifle I only need to chamber that.  I neck-size (not trendy these days).

I've cycled through 100 Lapua cases 12 times: (after 3 reloading cycles I'll anneal and then F/L with minimum bump) - , I've seen no chambering issues at all.  Because I neck size with a collet die I don't move the brass around much by drawing up material as in a F/L operation and I get excellent low run-outs from assembled rounds.

For .338 I anneal everytime and use a bushing die to bump back as if I try to neck-size only I get a tight bolt on closing.  As said earlier I use a mandrel to set neck tension.