tikka mounts

[lambsey]

just trying to zero my t3, with factory optilock mounts and rings,but i'm running out of elevation??? I dont really want to shim the scope. Any ideas??

[ejg223]

I've fixed two sets of optilocks that where not even in height.

One I just split the top and bottom half of optilock and made a shim.

I think it was about 0.5mm

Second set I just milled the long one down a bit.

 

edi

[stag1933]

I must have been lucky, got this S/H T3 .243 from a local dealer, low Optiloc mounts off a chap on this site, and a Besonder 8-32x50 scope off E.Bay.

Roughed it in with the collimator and after 5 shots on the range it was on song and active.

Have shot numerous Carrions and Bunnies with it in the last few weeks.

Pic. of 120 yard Bunnie today.

 

HWH.

[huntsman]

Hi lambsey,

 

ejg223 fixed my t3 and S&B combination, mine is a 6.5x55 it could not shoot the lighter bullets <140 gr as I ran out of elevation.

1. initally had a problem with the pin in the front, the base would not sit flush on the rail so I miilled off a little.

Edi resolved the problem by making a shim for the front (fits between base and mount).

 

I would firstly check that the optilocs you have are the right base/mounts combination for your t3. As there are lots of different types.

(2) recheck how the bases sit on the rail.

Is the front pin too long ? sometimes people knock it out completely!

(3) zero you scope (count the clicks from top to bottom and set it somewhere mid way).

(4) try a different scope.

(5) return the mounts for another set.

(6) I have three rifles tikka /sako all with optilocs and once set up they are no trouble and good to hold zero but this problem drove me nuts and I couldn't sort it until Edi got at it. I would never have thought of shimming the front. If like me your not an engineer leave it to those that know best.

Good luck and if you have any questions send me a pm

 

Dave

[Redfox]

Since I presume Sako, and GMK have decided to market the sako/tikka rings and bases seperately I have heard of one ( now2) instances of mixed up rings, when they came as a set, never heard of any problems.

Take or send them back and ask for replacements. they are not dirt cheap and should be right first time, mine certainly were for the T3 and and 8 x 56 scope.

Redfox

[stag1933]

Redfox may be right about sets versus separates.

I have 3 sets in use at the moment, on a Sako HB Varminter .308 , a Sako HB Varminter .243 and now the Tikka Hunter .243 and none of them have given me a problem.

The Optiloc system is the best I have ever used during a loooong shooting life, unlike some which damage the scope body.

 

If I were you and wanted a QWIKFIX I would centre the scopes reticule by counting the clicks from one end to the other and then coming half-way back.

Then insert a collimator to get an idea of extent of error and then as `edi` has suggested split the two halves of one mount and by trial and error put shimming material between the two halves of the mount until the error is corrected.

 

Another alternative would be of course to take it to a riflesmith who will sort it out in short time.

The problem with exchanging the mounts is that there is no guarantee that it is the mounts that are causing the problem.

 

HWH.

[ejg223]

I don't blame Sako, at least in my case the 30mm top halfs where

bought second hand. They could have been mixed up.

 

My rifle would zero with the scope having used most of it's elevation already.

This meant max 350m. I wanted the scope to be zeroed at the clicks being on

the low side. I just calculated how much I need to take off the front mount and

milled that amount off. Bang on.

One can see the milled surface in the pic.

edi

[lambsey]

stripped the mounts down, measured them, swopped them round, put them back together, and all is fine now??????

still confused??

many thanks for all your help