Switch Barrels

[onehole]

When the time comes for a rebarrel most of us suffer some down time whilst your rifle is away being smithed etc and depending on availability of barrels make,weight,spec etc etc you could be waiting quite a few months.If you have other rifles to play with then this would not normally be an issue

.My question then,,,is it possible to have two or even three new barrels machined, chamber reamed,test fitted,proofed etc etc for that one rifle.Then given that the shooter has "ability",,, an action wrench/tools and equipment to hold the work can he not just switch to a new barrel when needed or is it not as simple as I am thinking??

I understand you would have to justify why you would need to keep a spare barrel or two but seems reasonable to me.Presume the barrel/s would have to be proof stamped to match action number as well?? would proof house even want to bother screwing and unscrewing actions to test?? probably not ,,,,?

 

Any comments from our more learned amongst us,,,thanks ,,,,O

[The Gun Pimp]

You are absolutely correct BUT it's much easier to switch barrels if you have a pinned recoil-lug or better still an action with a built-in lug.

 

You would have to supply the Proof House with an action to proof each barrel but you could do it on one visit with just the one action - or at least your 'smith could.

 

The barrels are not stamped with anything that ties them to a particular action.

[onehole]

Thanks for that,,,,GP ,,,This may be something I shall consider on my next need to rebarrel.will have a chat with my Smithy to see what hassle if any there might be,,,,,regds ,,,O

[hunter87]

All the cost added up in spare barrels proof fees ect wouldn't it just be cheaper to buy a second rifle

[Grouse]

Dave Wylde did me a switch barrel on a pinned lug Lawton action - 260 rem, and 6mmbr

 

Haven't got around to switching barrel yet.

 

Would be very interested in any techniques needed to do the switch correctly! Any tips etc?

 

I have datum marks marked on the barrels for torquing them correctly.

[onehole]

All the cost added up in spare barrels proof fees ect wouldn't it just be cheaper to buy a second rifle

All sorts of ways to look at this but if I only had one rifle a rebarrel means downtime for shooting,,,,If I had a second rifle I would need another scope and justify a second rifle in same format,,,What I am thinking is purely to keep "a" rifle shooting without the need to send it away everytime it needs a rebarrel.I don't mind the high initial cost that just evens out over time,,,,,,My Rifles and calibre are keepers they just need rebarreling from time to time and it would be good to sort of do this myself,,,,just an idea,,,,,,I feel I have the "ability",,given the right tool/s ,,,etc

[mikeroz]

I have a Barnard SM and had a 243 & 308 barrel plus action wrench when I bought it. I got a cheep barrel vice which I got off USA ebay which came with a handful of alloy collars or bushes. I mounted this on a length of wood about 18 inches long that I can stand on whilst I torque it up.

I can change barrels without dropping my pm2 off the picattiny but do have to take it out of the stock. I have a PB Swiss Tools screwdriver torque wrench for the stock bolts, and I use a big torque wrench for the barrel. I used to torwue the barrel up to 100 ft/ lbs but more recently I've only done it to 65 ft/lbs with no noticeable difference. Changing barrels is a 5 to 10 minute job and zero is consistently repeatable every time (by that I mean 243 to 308 and vice versa is the same number of click up every time). I've now been doing this for 8 or 9 years.

[jcampbellsmith]

I'm not sure I follow the another scope logic. I have a number of rifles, but only one dedicated stalking scope and one dedicated target scope. My objective for next season is to shoot one rifle with the target scope all season.

 

Regards

 

JCS

[mikeroz]

I agree with JCS, I only use one scope, a PM2 is expensive enough to justify having a second one. I spent some time getting to know repeatability click values and have recorded them.

One thing I would say though is if you want more than one barrel in the same calibre you will have to justify this with your local constabulary.

[onehole]

It,s getting late,,,doh!!Say I have one rifle one calibre and just want to rebarrel when "I WANT or NEED" does a switch barrel set up make sense,,,,,

[onehole]

I agree with JCS, I only use one scope, a PM2 is expensive enough to justify having a second one. I spent some time getting to know repeatability click values and have recorded them.

One thing I would say though is if you want more than one barrel in the same calibre you will have to justify this with your local constabulary.

The second or third barrel is a spare locked away for when required,,,,rebarreling,,,,"need"

[jcampbellsmith]

I agree with JCS, I only use one scope, a PM2 is expensive enough to justify having a second one. I spent some time getting to know repeatability click values and have recorded them.

One thing I would say though is if you want more than one barrel in the same calibre you will have to justify this with your local constabulary.

Not sure I follow that, given I've 2 x 260 Rem in the gun cupboard just now. Regards JCS

[mikeroz]

To me yes, that's why I did it. It's just basic mechanical engineering. Action wrench is likely to cost you £70 ish, about the same gor my barrel wrench plus cost of a couple of torque wrenches, but as I have mended my own cars for years I had these already.

As I said above though if you want two or more barrels of same calibre you might need to convince your local constabulary of the need for 2 barrels. When I put a Kidd on my 10/22 they did not want me to kep my old 22RF barrel, I didn't challenge them over the issue.

[onehole]

Not sure I follow that, given I've 2 x 260 Rem in the gun cupboard just now. Regards JCS

Same here,,,,I have 3 6BR,s but all in different twists to suit different applications and bullet type/weight,,,no problem with "plod" either.

[mikeroz]

Not sure I follow that, given I've 2 x 260 Rem in the gun cupboard just now. Regards JCS

Very interesting. I'm only going with my own experiences with Avon & Somerset, that said I've never challenged them on the issue.

[onehole]

Very interesting. I'm only going with my own experiences with Avon & Somerset, that said I've never challenged them on the issue.

Not a 22RF buff but probably glad to get rid of a stock Ruger 22lr barrel ??akin to a shot out CF perhaps,,,,bin there done it,,,, must be 20 years ago

[mikeroz]

Onehole, I would be happy to video my barrel change setup if you're interested. Id rather email it to you if possible. I would recommend a stainless uncoated barrel if you go this route and wish to swap barrels fairly regularly otherwise you run the risk of marking the finish. My matt blasted barrels can be wire-wooled if they get marked in the vice bushing.

[JSC]

I have 4 barrels in total for my FTR rifle and swap them very regularly. Justification for the additional slots on my FAC wasn't too much of a problem. It's just a matter of educating your FEO...

A lot of match barrels are on a 6 month lead time and when you add in the time taken to 'smith and prove them, it's not always an option to wait until one barrel gets shot out before ordering a new one.

The job of swapping them takes a few minutes and can be done on the range as long as you've got a couple of g-clamps and a firm table/bench to clamp the vice to.

 

If you leave the same scope on all the time you need to be prepared to adjust the zero on it for each barrel, but other than that there's nothing much to worry about as long as you don't cross-thread them.

[gazzar15]

Not being a smith myself.... is the reason for a pinned recoil lug for repeatability between barrel swaps ? Does it remove the need for head spacing every time you swap a barrel relying instead on a torque value to ensure repeatability ?

[onehole]

Not being a smith myself.... is the reason for a pinned recoil lug for repeatability between barrel swaps ? Does it remove the need for head spacing every time you swap a barrel relying instead on a torque value to ensure repeatability ?

Pretty sure that's part of it as well as correct torqueing and also if action is removed from a tight bedded stock it should go back exactly same place.

[NoEntry]

I have just rebarred my Remy 308 to 6.5x47 lapua using a Bergara self fit barrel.

 

Job wasn't to onerous as I had an action wrench and headspace gauges and my friend had a barrel vice.

 

The job took an hour or so to do.

 

Incidentally the new barrel shoots at around 0.4" at 100 yds.

 

 

More than please with it and would not hesitate in recommending the system.

 

MIke

[onehole]

I have just rebarred my Remy 308 to 6.5x47 lapua using a Bergara self fit barrel.

 

Job wasn't to onerous as I had an action wrench and headspace gauges and my friend had a barrel vice.

 

The job took an hour or so to do.

 

Incidentally the new barrel shoots at around 0.4" at 100 yds.

 

 

More than please with it and would not hesitate in recommending the system.

 

MIke

Thanks Mike,,,O

[onehole]

Onehole, I would be happy to video my barrel change setup if you're interested. Id rather email it to you if possible. I would recommend a stainless uncoated barrel if you go this route and wish to swap barrels fairly regularly otherwise you run the risk of marking the finish. My matt blasted barrels can be wire-wooled if they get marked in the vice bushing.

will PM you thanks,,,,O

[The Gun Pimp]

I have just rebarred my Remy 308 to 6.5x47 lapua using a Bergara self fit barrel.

 

Job wasn't to onerous as I had an action wrench and headspace gauges and my friend had a barrel vice.

 

The job took an hour or so to do.

 

Incidentally the new barrel shoots at around 0.4" at 100 yds.

 

 

More than please with it and would not hesitate in recommending the system.

 

MIke

Of course, you were using the 'barrel-nut' system - similar to the Savage. With a 'straight' switch barrel it's literally a 5 minute job - no head-spacing to do as with the barrel-nut system.

[ChrisF]

If its not pinned , it will maybe move as you tighten the barrel , so unless you have a jig to posn the lug & stop it moving while you torque the barrel down , thats why the pin in the lug , the better solution , is a action that does not use a seperate recoil lug at all .