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Sako TRG trigger adjustment/repair - Anyone work on them?


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I've now given up trying to adjust my TRG 42 trigger. It has been fully stripped, cleaned, reassembled and adjusted in every which way - yet still will not break much above 50 grams on the second stage! Not ideal on a field .338...I also have forum member PCals .308 trigger here, that is doing basically the same thing on his rifle & mine - so two TRG triggers that need work.

 

GMK said before Christmas I could post the trigger groups to them and they would be repaired in-house for a small charge (they're out of warranty having had a custom barrels put on it or s/h...). However I called today and they will now only accept the whole rifle to work on! Apparently the trg triggers are all interchangeable, yet need to be worked on with the individual rifle to check sear engagement??? So that's an easy £100 gone with insured tnt/local RFD charges before any works done....work which could cost anything, since GMK will only quote a price to my RFD once the rifle is received and do not have an hourly workshop rate!

 

The new TRG (the only type GMK now stock) is retailing around £375+ and I really don't want to pay this for a trigger unit! Yet they will send one out tomorrow if my dealer orders it and that I can just fit myself since they are all interchangeable.... PCal managed to get the last old style unit as a replacement and that came in under £200, bolted it on and it works perfectly as it should. Twice this price for the new model that corrects 'issues' of the old one seems excessive to me.

 

So is there anyone on here that can adjust/repair them and has a TRG to work with, so wouldn't require my rifle?

 

Cheers,

 

Tiff

 

N.b. Soon to be selling everything and buying a single dependable AI if this isn't fixed....

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It's not looking promising - I was really hoping there would be someone, apart from GMK, that could fix this.

 

I'm don't want to post the rifle to GMK without any indication of cost or even how long it would take - especially if they send anything back to Sako! Unfotunately GMK won't just send out a replacement set of internals.....Equally I'm not that keen on spending £375+ on a trigger, but this is looking more & more likely!

 

Any other ideas greatly appreciated.

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Ok a long shot, but does anyone have a spare Sako TRG trigger they want to sell?

 

Equally does anyone want to upgrade to a new TRG trigger and sell their current one? (obviously must be in A1 condition). I can get a new TRG trigger supplied at a very reasonable price.....I just can't afford it right now.

 

Cheers,

 

Tiff

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Apologies, just re-read and your second stage is too light, inverse of below. I'd still look at the relationship between first and second stage weights, try decreasing the first stage weight significantly and see if it affects the second stage weight. I'm sorry without a trigger in front of me i can't recall the levers.

 

 

 

 

Tiff,

 

Just something to try/investigate yourself - I sold my TRG's when I switched to DTA so I'm working from memory.

 

As i recall there was an issue with TRG triggers that if you set the pull of the first and second stages too close together (ie backed them both right off to go light...) it would cause binding and result in a very heavy pull/lock up. Try reducing your first stage weight and increasing the second and see if there is any difference.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Hi Tony,

 

Thanks, unfortunately I've systematically tried every combination of first to second stage ratios's and on my unit I simply cannot get the second stage pull weight very heavy. I'm beginning to think the previous owner of my rifle removed/fitted the trigger group with the bolt in place - apparently this can damage the internal sears of the unit. It has then progressively worn through use, resulting in the ever decreasing second stage trigger weight and would explain why I cannot seem to increase it again.

 

From sleeping on it, I've decided I'm going to have to spend £350+ on a new trigger unit, since even if I get a spare old style trigger unit, it's always going to be in the back of my mind that it could go wrong...not ideal on any rifle, especially a .338! The new unit is a different design and a lot more robust in construction, solving the weaknesses of the older unit. I'll just have to sell some kit to fund its purchase.

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Sorry Tiff, painful.

 

One other random thought....

 

Sportsman's jumped on all the spares from the fabled Jordanian cancellation - I bought a folder, mags and a .338 barrel very cheaply. I wonder if there were any trigger units in the pile..... may be worth a call.

 

Tony

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Ok a long shot, but does anyone have a spare Sako TRG trigger they want to sell?

Equally does anyone want to upgrade to a new TRG trigger and sell their current one? (obviously must be in A1 condition). I can get a new TRG trigger supplied at a very reasonable price.....I just can't afford it right now.

Cheers,

Tiff

What's the price on a new one and do you mean the new 2013 upgrade trigger

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Yes the 2013 model, it's the only one GMK now stock - price is as above really £350 ish - Sportmans were after £415, which is still under RRP!

 

Either way, I've talked myself into one and will therefore keep the TRG, instead of trading up to an AI AXMC - for a while at least anyway….The older TRG trigger is the main thing that can/will let them down. So with that fixed, there is really no point in me changing to the AI.

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  • 1 month later...

Proper adjustment procedures

 

1. Check that the weapon is free from cartridges and remove the bolt

 

2. Remove trigger unit as described in the user manual and clean it thoroughly.

 

3. Pull the safety on and adjust first stage pull weight against the safety to approx. 0.5-0.6 kg (small hex screw behind the trigger). Use loktite (222, 243 etc.)to prevent accidental loosening of the screw.

When you have the safety pulled on you can feel the actual first stage movement of the trigger before it comes in contact with the connector inside the trigger unit.

 

4. Assemble the trigger unit to the weapon. Never have the bolt in the weapon when assembling and tightening the trigger unit in place. If you have it in place it will immediately cause damage to the trigger unit when sear is forced down against the connector by the cocking piece of the firing pin and cocking surfaces/ corners on the sear and connector will break/crack.

 

5. Adjust the final pull weight to minimum of 1.0kg (hex screw in front of the trigger). Use loktite on the screw.

Always have sufficient gap in between first and second stage pull, first stage should be approx. half of the final pull weight (0.5/1.0kg, 0.6/1.2kg etc.). If the two weights are set too close the cocking corners will get rounded and the weapon will not stay properly cocked causing hard and long single stage pull like you described.

 

6. After adjusting the pull weight check the functioning of the safety.

Cock the rifle and pull safety on ->bolt handle will not come up and trigger will only move the first stage travel.

Push the safety off and dry fire the rifle. Try pulling the safety on -> safety should bounce back to the front position and not stay on. If the safety engages when rifle is not cocked the safety lever inside the trigger unit is worn or too loose and should be re-tightened properly. Have trained gunsmith do this!

 

Do not over lubricate the internal parts of the trigger unit; small amount of very thin synthetic oil or dry lube will do the trick. Two of the most common mistakes causing problems:

Improper adjustment of the first and second stage pull set too close to each other will wear the internal parts.

Assembling of the trigger unit to the rifle with the bolt in place will immediately break the internal parts.

 

Hope this helps and you'll get the trigger operational again?

If you're not able to adjust the trigger properly have the cocking corners in the trigger unit checked, they may be damaged already and the pull weight will not adjust properly...

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Hi DutchTRG22, yep I too followed those instructions from the hide, but still couldn't get it right and no signs of obvious damage inside….

 

Anyway all sorted now since I've brought the new upgraded TRG trigger unit. It appears to be a big improvement over the old model, with a re-design of the internals, a full metal trigger guard and externally accessible safety catch. Best of all is the one adjustment screw that sets both the first and second stages simultaneously :)

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Hi Tiff,

Thats realy bad that you had to buy a new trigger unit. I spoke to a guy of sako at the IWA last year and he told the new trigger would be better than the old one. The only thing would be that the adjustment has a real minimum triggerpullweight of 1 kg. Mine is 900 grams at the moment

I'm really curious what you experience is with the new trigger unit

 

Grtz Wiljan

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Hi Tiff,

Thats realy bad that you had to buy a new trigger unit. I spoke to a guy of sako at the IWA last year and he told the new trigger would be better than the old one. The only thing would be that the adjustment has a real minimum triggerpullweight of 1 kg. Mine is 900 grams at the moment

I'm really curious what you experience is with the new trigger unit

Grtz Wiljan

Me too. :)

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Hi Tiff,

Thats realy bad that you had to buy a new trigger unit. I spoke to a guy of sako at the IWA last year and he told the new trigger would be better than the old one. The only thing would be that the adjustment has a real minimum triggerpullweight of 1 kg. Mine is 900 grams at the moment

I'm really curious what you experience is with the new trigger unit

 

Grtz Wiljan

 

Due to our terrible weather I haven't had a chance to properly test it yet - 13 rounds isn't really a comprehensive test…That being said, it is reassuringly positive in use, the break is clean and the safety catch is a lot 'safer' in use than the older model. I will update this thread with further information once I've properly used it in the next few weeks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Due to our terrible weather I haven't had a chance to properly test it yet - 13 rounds isn't really a comprehensive test…That being said, it is reassuringly positive in use, the break is clean and the safety catch is a lot 'safer' in use than the older model. I will update this thread with further information once I've properly used it in the next few weeks.

 

Would be great to read your review !

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Due to our terrible weather I haven't had a chance to properly test it yet - 13 rounds isn't really a comprehensive test…That being said, it is reassuringly positive in use, the break is clean and the safety catch is a lot 'safer' in use than the older model. I will update this thread with further information once I've properly used it in the next few weeks.

Thank you, looking forward to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tiff,

 

I have the same problem with my TRG (2013 model) & posted the following last August

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/topic/19801-sako-trg-22-trigger-problems/

 

Spoke to GMK, couldn't contact Sako direct.

 

Trigger weight is still around 2.5lbs (2nd stage) so I'm just having to deal with it.

 

Have you sorted the problem with a new unit?

 

Thanks

 

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyway all sorted now since I've brought the new upgraded TRG trigger unit. It appears to be a big improvement over the old model, with a re-design of the internals, a full metal trigger guard and externally accessible safety catch. Best of all is the one adjustment screw that sets both the first and second stages simultaneously :)

 

Well I've now put 90+ rounds through the rifle with this trigger and it is a considerable improvement over the older model. The adjustment is easy, although I have left it reassuringly heavy, yet at the same time the second stage break is consistent and 'glass rod' crisp. The externally accessible safety catch is a good addition and with gloves on helps make it that bit 'safer'.

 

In short, Sako have certainly addressed the shortcomings of the older model trigger and I now have full confidence in the firing mech. again. If your old unit works fine then great, but if it is on the way out or you are going to be using it in places where you really don't want it to go south, I would recommend this newer unit.

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