Offroad Gary Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Question about relieving a tikka t3 factory lite stock. Ive just changed the stock from a hunter I bought for foxing to a lite stock I had going spare and have noticed that the barrel is not now free floating all the way to the action, about 1.5 from the action the stock grips the barrel. Has anyone removed material from this area and gained accuracy/consistency? The hunter stock was free floating all the way to the action. Might also add some weight/stiffness to the stock bay adding epoxy resing or similar to all the hollow bits.. ive done a prohunter and t595 before but never a tikkaware t3. Any comments/advice appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagged 77 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 I would definitely free float that portion, otherwise your point of aim could shift with any change of pressure to the bottom of the stock (such as a bipod) as in this case there is only a small portion of contact on the sides of the barrel. With that particular stock there should be plenty of relief underneath the barrel so you should only need to remove a couple of mil from the sides. You don't need power tools - simple sand paper will do the trick on that particular plastic (finish with fine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palo Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 My mate recently bought a new tikka t3 lite in 223. Accuracy was poor and we noticed the barrel was not free floated so he removed some material to free float the barrel. It made a huge improvement and accuracy is great now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Not sure about adding resin. Doesn't a rifle have a centre of gravity somewhere along the stock?? If it was me, I would find out about the CG or "balance point" before going ahead with that part. Although I'm sure one of the more knowledgeable members on here can advise you on that.... As for the free floating, I agree with Jagged 77 and Palo. Remove just enough of the material to allow the barrel to still be free floating when you've fire a few rounds through it. Not sure how accurate this method is..... But, I was told to wrap a bank note, (I'm sure a bit of A4 paper would be fine) around the underside of a "warm expanded" barrel holding the 2 ends together at the top and see if I could slide it along the underside of the barrel, (without any resistance) all the way up along the forend to the receiver to see if it's properly floated. That's always worked for me, and increased accuracy, to varying degrees. When I remove some forend material, I always wrap the sand paper around a bit of wooden broom stick handle or similar, to avoid "wavey" lines. I also, mark where I want to relieve the material to with masking tape. That's obviously a D.I.Y way of doing it, and there will no doubt be more professional ways of doing it, that others on here can advise you about. atb Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Stock should be relieved so much that it will not contact the barrel under any shooting positions. Loading bipod, shooting downhill off bipod etc. If that means a gap of 1/8" well then that is it. The stiffer the stock and less temp/moisture sensitive the smaller the barrel-stock gap could be in theory. If a stock is touching the barrel at the front and a rifle weighs say 4.5 kg the barrel will be pushed up with around 2kg if shot off a bipod. We know what a 500g moderator can do to our POI. I didn't even fire a single shot out of my T3 before opening the barrel channel, would have been a waste of ammo. in the meantime I changed the stock. edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-NZ Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Stock should be relieved so much that it will not contact the barrel under any shooting positions. Loading bipod, shooting downhill off bipod etc... Well that means you'd need 1/4" clearance on a factory Rem SPS stock Edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Well that means you'd need 1/4" clearance on a factory Rem SPS stock Edi just about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22/250 foxer Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Gsry you still got the wood stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Offroad Gary Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Gsry you still got the wood stock Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22/250 foxer Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Would you consider selling it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Offroad Gary Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Yea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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