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Annealing another dumb question!!


pcon

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I'm looking to start annealing my brass and as I have three different batches at different stages of work hardening, my question is...

if I hand anneal them, will it bring the three batches back to the same spec??

 

Also what blow torch is best??

 

cheers,

 

pcon

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Thanks Spud,

 

 

 

so then how long to anneal 600 cases... at the one time :(

 

will any butane torch do??

 

send them over i can anneal them in an hour or just little over

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so then how long to anneal 600 cases... at the one time :(

 

will any butane torch do??

 

 

 

600 will take several hours, and yes a butane touch with adjustable nozzle will do the trick nicely.

 

Here is a link to a video from a very repeatable reloading guy on how to do it.

 

 

Steve.

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Sorry but I would not call that 'repeatable' as the cases were not in the flame for the exact same time and also were not exactly the same distance from the flame. Repeatability for me is using an annealing machine with a timer on it (Benchsource in my case or any other type).

I am sure that the cases were annealed and the shoulders did not collapse, and that the headstamp end of the case did not reach a dangerously high temperature that could cause a serious accident. But I would not risk my eyesight using cases annealed like that.

Just my twopennorth that's all.

 

 

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That is pretty much the way I have annealed my brass for the last five plus years with no problem. To ensure that I dont 'cook; the neck, I anneal in a dark room with only the light of the torch. This allows me to see better the colour change in the neck. With my .338Lm I anneal after each firing. This has resulted in the brass lasting for over 10 reloadings to date, a big bonus when you consider the price of that brass.

 

Geordie, I think you are being slightly precocious regarding the neck consistency. Having started some days on range areas with temps of -20C and as the day developed the temps climbing up to -0C; I have a feeling that the temp variation would have a greater impact on neck tension that that induced by this method of annealing. However, each to his own.

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To answer the OP's original question, if the brass has had different amount of firings then it'll be at different stages (wall thickness, stretch etc). However by effective annealing the neck and shoulder can be returned to an equal hardness value.

 

You want a torch with a relatively small pencil type flame. B&Q do one that's only about £12 that works well. Practice on old brass first, I find it helps to use a metronome to count (can download an app for your phone if you have one suitable).

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Sorry but I would not call that 'repeatable' as the cases were not in the flame for the exact same time and also were not exactly the same distance from the flame. Repeatability for me is using an annealing machine with a timer on it (Benchsource in my case or any other type).

 

Why does it need to be repatable? All Annealing does is sofen the brass so you can re-size it without it splitting as it become hard and brittle, the important thing is that you dont overheat it. Your die gives you the size and neck tension you want.

 

I dont really see the point in a Annealing machine etc unless it is speed you are after and you are doing 000's and 000's of cases, ok YES im sure they DO produce a real good concistent job and produce very nicley annealed brass, but at an extra added expense. 000's of people anneal brass using a blow torch as above with no problems at all and with outstanding result and accuracy.

 

Steve.

 

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To answer the OP's original question, if the brass has had different amount of firings then it'll be at different stages (wall thickness, stretch etc). However by effective annealing the neck and shoulder can be returned to an equal hardness value. You want a torch with a relatively small pencil type flame. B&Q do one that's only about £12 that works well. Practice on old brass first, I find it helps to use a metronome to count (can download an app for your phone if you have one suitable).

 

Yes, well said.

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I am no expert on annealing BUT , given what I think I understand about the dangers of heat conducting down to the head end of the case if the neck /shoulder area is not heated fast enough and to a high enough temperature (dangerous if it softens down the case length to the head) I would rather pay to have it done (consistently) by machine and by someone who knows how to use it.... its not expensive enough to be worth the time it must take doing hundreds by blowtorch.

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That is pretty much the way I have annealed my brass for the last five plus years with no problem. To ensure that I dont 'cook; the neck, I anneal in a dark room with only the light of the torch. This allows me to see better the colour change in the neck. With my .338Lm I anneal after each firing. This has resulted in the brass lasting for over 10 reloadings to date, a big bonus when you consider the price of that brass.

 

Geordie, I think you are being slightly precocious regarding the neck consistency. Having started some days on range areas with temps of -20C and as the day developed the temps climbing up to -0C; I have a feeling that the temp variation would have a greater impact on neck tension that that induced by this method of annealing. However, each to his own.

Hi Missed. I do not want to get into a silly 'bitch slapping' session with anyone as that is not my style, and me/moi, precocious? Sorry that is b*ll*cks!!! The point I was coming from is I believe absolute (which is was I want) consistency is better achieved from using a machine that's all. I never said that I disagree with anyone who uses a manual system like the guy in the video. But I have seen videos of an American guy annealing in a darkened room and the brass was glowing bright orange. I would not like to be near him when he shoots. So you pay your money and take your choice. If it works then great you have saved some dosh.

Best wishes,

Precocious.

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Improper annealing has the potential to catastrophically weaken brass, no doubt. However with proper knowledge and technique effective and consistent annealing can be done by hand. I've done thousands this way (yes it s a chore and ball ache...) on brass ranging from .223 up to .338 without any issue resulting in consistent neck tension and results on target. A lot of my shooting is done over 1000 yards and improper or inconsistent neck tension is soon highlighted.

 

Having said that, the Giraud is on my shopping list for sure, if only to automate the process and take the faff out of it.

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Thanks for the replies guy's.

 

Jag77, like your timing idea, cheers.

 

Spud by the time I ship from Ireland to you and you ship back and the cost of annealing it's probably easier if I learn to do it my self.

 

It seems that I could use the Temqul stuff to get my timing right and try a few, post pic's here to get experienced peer approval.

 

when I'm seating, would incorrect annealing show up as a variance in the seating due to variance in neck hardness?????

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up to you mate but its some thing i do a lot off

 

Thanks for the replies guy's.

 

Jag77, like your timing idea, cheers.

 

Spud by the time I ship from Ireland to you and you ship back and the cost of annealing it's probably easier if I learn to do it my self.

 

It seems that I could use the Temqul stuff to get my timing right and try a few, post pic's here to get experienced peer approval.

 

when I'm seating, would incorrect annealing show up as a variance in the seating due to variance in neck hardness?????

 

it could show up as a difference in force needed to seat the said bullet

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