abolter Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 I apologise for my lack of technical nouse here. How often do people check their action screws, Scope mounts etc? Furthermore how many people have problems with them and what do they use to stop them loosening? I also was curious if there are standard torques for action scres and scope mounts, if there are then I could instigate a regime of checking mine and perhaps avoid some of the problems I have had. I have a simple Browning A bolt in 30=06 which seems to spend half its life trying to loosen the action or the scope!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achosenman Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 I apologise for my lack of technical nouse here. How often do people check their action screws, Scope mounts etc? Furthermore how many people have problems with them and what do they use to stop them loosening? I also was curious if there are standard torques for action scres and scope mounts, if there are then I could instigate a regime of checking mine and perhaps avoid some of the problems I have had. I have a simple Browning A bolt in 30=06 which seems to spend half its life trying to loosen the action or the scope!! I check mine every time I go out. Action screws are torqued at 65in lbs as is the scope ring cross bolt. The rings get 14-17in lbs. I never have a problem. Your rifle manufacturer may have torque setting on their website. ATB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcampbellsmith Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 I apologise for my lack of technical nouse here..... Once in a blue moon. Usual process is, mount scope on rifle, align it using scope aligner. Go shoot it and actually zero it. Come home, check all screws are tight. They won't be looked at again unless an issue arises. If the action screws are regularly coming loose, then I think you need to get an expert to look at the bedding etc. Good luck. JCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Abolter, The action screws should not be loosening up all the time. Once torqued after removal etc. shoot and check again. Folks sometime change out action screws withhout paying attension to the 'screw' quality or grade. Using grade 12.9 and the 'std'. 50-something in/lb will not stretch them. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbal Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Abolter, The action screws should not be loosening up all the time. Once torqued after removal etc. shoot and check again. Folks sometime change out action screws withhout paying attension to the 'screw' quality or grade. Using grade 12.9 and the 'std'. 50-something in/lb will not stretch them. Terry 'Loc tite' do a 'glue' suitable for scope screws which gives some added security,but can be removed with the right size screwdriver if need be.Check other torques with the manufacturer-better than eg UK distributor,usually. george Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 The bane of my life are people who apply loctite to scope and rail screws. Dont do it ! Take the mounts apart, and get what ever screws you are using together, and put them in a little pot of good quality degreaser. Scrub them with an old toothbrush. Do the same with the holes they are going into, and get them bone dry and grease free. Refit using the correct torque. Birchwood casey gun scrubber, or panelwipe from the car body shop are perfect for this. Nothing wrong with threadlocker, providing its the correct grade. problem is 99% of people dont know what that is, and use stuff that is far too strong. If you must put something on the threads, the tiniest amount of clear nail varnish will stop them moving. If i had a pound for every Remington rail screw i,ve had to drill out and retap, i,d be considerably richer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbal Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 The bane of my life are people who apply loctite to scope and rail screws. Dont do it ! Take the mounts apart, and get what ever screws you are using together, and put them in a little pot of good quality degreaser. Scrub them with an old toothbrush. Do the same with the holes they are going into, and get them bone dry and grease free. Refit using the correct torque. Birchwood casey gun scrubber, or panelwipe from the car body shop are perfect for this. Nothing wrong with threadlocker, providing its the correct grade. problem is 99% of people dont know what that is, and use stuff that is far too strong. If you must put something on the threads, the tiniest amount of clear nail varnish will stop them moving. If i had a pound for every Remington rail screw i,ve had to drill out and retap, i,d be considerably richer. I stand corrected and chastised,though a bit confused,as I did say the 'appropriate' loctite?What would be a'threadlocker of the correct strength',if ever I get loose screws on my scope rings.I used to use a dab of loctite blue 242(?) threadlocker,from Brownell's,which loctite described as 'a threadlocker suitable for applications where routine disassembly was required using standard hand tools'. Maybe that's naughty.So what is ok? Be gentle with me,I only have baby pink nail varnish. georgina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Thats the one George. Brownells seem to stick to old codes that people can remember. Loctite are forever changing the bloody numbers! Brownells used to do one in a tube like a pritt stick. These are great, and will hold a screw without siezing it. The very worst one on a remmy is the front mount screw which is shorter than the rest, and is sat over the barrel tenon threads. Folk lather locktite in there and f eck the lot up usually. The best method, is a bottle of clear nail varnish, and actually put a drop onto the top of the fully torqued down screw. It seals it against moisture and stops it moving. Its very easily dug back out if necessary too. The very worst mounts/bases are the 2 pice leupold ones. These will sieze onto a remmy inside 6 months with no loctite used. My heart sinks whenever a gun appears with them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbal Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Thats the one George. Brownells seem to stick to old codes that people can remember. Loctite are forever changing the bloody numbers! Brownells used to do one in a tube like a pritt stick. These are great, and will hold a screw without siezing it. The very worst one on a remmy is the front mount screw which is shorter than the rest, and is sat over the barrel tenon threads. Folk lather locktite in there and f eck the lot up usually. The best method, is a bottle of clear nail varnish, and actually put a drop onto the top of the fully torqued down screw. It seals it against moisture and stops it moving. Its very easily dug back out if necessary too. The very worst mounts/bases are the 2 pice leupold ones. These will sieze onto a remmy inside 6 months with no loctite used. My heart sinks whenever a gun appears with them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbal Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Thanks Dave,what a relief!I was beginning to fear I'd welded them up forever! It's the same with nail varnish-is Boots 'flecktern' the same as Armani 'flecktern'-of course not. g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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