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Holdover


6.5shooter

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Gooday folks,

Something I am trying to get my head around at the moment is holdover with a reticle with marks on, be it mildot or in moa.

I know that the magnification has to be set to the specified setting to range targets to calculate approx how far they are away but does the same apply for holdover?

Ie. do I have to have the mag set at a specific setting to holdover for a known drop at a known range?

The scope is second focal plane.

 

Regards

 

Garry

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Gooday folks,

Something I am trying to get my head around at the moment is holdover with a reticle with marks on, be it mildot or in moa.

I know that the magnification has to be set to the specified setting to range targets to calculate approx how far they are away but does the same apply for holdover?

Ie. do I have to have the mag set at a specific setting to holdover for a known drop at a known range?

The scope is second focal plane.

 

Regards

 

Garry

 

My understanding is that you only need to worry about a defined magnification with FPP scopes because the reticle changes size / scale with changes in magnification.

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yes the same applies for ranging and holder with a sfp. the subtensions of the ret change with the power. Holdover is less precise than dialing, you may get away with it at relatively short range but if the wind gets up you'll be holding off for wind too so unless using a horrus ret or similar you'll be holding out in space. holdoff using the ret can be useful for a fast second shot correction or

maybe if the wind changes just before the shot to add or subtract what you've already dialed.

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My understanding is that you only need to worry about a defined magnification with FPP scopes because the reticle changes size / scale with changes in magnification.

 

Please ignore this post.... blood not reached brain yet! For ranging on FPP (as you probably know anyway) you can use any magnification level as the reticle stays in relation to target size. I click' rather than holdover at anything other than typical hunting distances but I assume the same remains true about mag levels.

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I bought a nightforce scope with the npr1 reticle Instead of my usual requirement of the np2dd.

Reason being is because the reticle is in moa instead of mil so I thought this would be handf for spotting my shots and calculating how much I have missed by using the moa hashes on the ret! Then I can simply dial in the number of clicks I am out by working out in moa how far out my shot is.

Or it might even be handy for estimating a wind call by just holding off instead of dialling as I sometimes like to do that instead for wind.

I looked up the manual but all it says is to keep it at 22x mag for ranging.

Still confused.

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What you have in mind seems sound to me. I really like the np r1 ret( had one on a 223 a while back).However you DO need to be on 22 for the subtensions to be correct.ie match the turrets. you could use 11 and double the size of the subtensions. 1moa on the ret at 22 =2moa at 11 or 4moa @5.5 that is assuming the power dial is marked correctly.:)

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Garry, have a practise with it. I much prefer a ffp scope as the reticle stays true at whatever magnification you are using but the downside is the reticle is very small on low magnification. Anyway that aside I do use a sfp NSX with npr1 reticle on a .243 (too cheap to buy another pm11)If you are taking a second follow up shot I would sugest using the reticle for aiming off instead of dialling in your correction - its much quicker and therefore you are less susceptible to variations in wind speed. If for example you see the shot fall right by 2 hash marks, irrespective of scope magnification just hold off that amount for your second shot without adjusting your magnification. The 'trueness' of the reticle is only important if you are ranging, need to know the size of an object or you are holding off a specific moa value. On a NSX 22x is 'true' with 11x being double and 5.5x being quadruple the moa marks of the reticle. Hope that all made sense :wacko:

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