annealing 17 fireball brass

[22-250jock]

have noticed 3 split necks on my 17 fireball brass so guess its time to anneal them?

they have been reloaded 5 times now and guess they are starting to harden,

i'm going to give si-snipes method a go using a drill and gas torch.

 

just wondered if anyone has done any before?,

if so any idea of time for heat needed on each case?, do they have to be quenched or air cooled?,

and do they have to be deprimed before hand ?

 

cheers jock

[1967spud]

have noticed 3 split necks on my 17 fireball brass so guess its time to anneal them?

they have been reloaded 5 times now and guess they are starting to harden,

i'm going to give si-snipes method a go using a drill and gas torch.

 

just wondered if anyone has done any before?,

if so any idea of time for heat needed on each case?, do they have to be quenched or air cooled?,

and do they have to be deprimed before hand ?

 

cheers jock

I've literally done some this afternoon for a customer. Time depends on heat source and a few other variables.

They need to be deprived first and preferably tumbled so they are clean. You can either air cool or drench. With advantages and disadvantages with both methods.

Alternatively you can send them to somebody with the kit and get them done for you.

[That bald headed Geordie]

have noticed 3 split necks on my 17 fireball brass so guess its time to anneal them?

they have been reloaded 5 times now and guess they are starting to harden,

i'm going to give si-snipes method a go using a drill and gas torch.

 

just wondered if anyone has done any before?,

if so any idea of time for heat needed on each case?, do they have to be quenched or air cooled?,

and do they have to be deprimed before hand ?

 

cheers jock

 

Hi Jock.

 

Not sure about the timing, but suggest you put some tempilaq paint on the neck rated about 700f (to ensure that you do not overdo it) and then some rated at 400f on the lower part of the case (to ensure that the headstamp does not get too hot/soft, otherwise you will have a serious problem if the case is not strong enough to contain the pressure).

As for quenching, it might be a good idea because of the size of the case to stop heat transfer, but other cases like 284 Win does not need to be quenched but can be left to aircool.

Yes it is supposed to be safer to deprime any case just in case there is a live primer, but that means you may have to resize again as the case will expand with the heat.

So as I know that my cases have been fired I do not bother and anneal and then resize just the once.

Good luck

[1967spud]

I cant copy the link on the if in but if you go to my youtube channel any search for annealing there are a few uploads covering the subject.

Atb mark

[22-250jock]

spud, geordie,

 

thanks for the replies lads, have watched your videos spud, very informative

 

i would imagine reloading solutions would be the best bet for tempilaq ?

cheers jock

[MachIV]

Hi Jock

I have a 17 Mach IV which is the wildcat that was the precursor of the 17 Fireball. I make my own brass from 221 Fireball brass, neck down in 2 passes and neck turn. The brass work hardens so annealing is a must. The first ones I did with their toes in some water - about a cm or so. No problems.

 

Then I thought who needs water so a did a dozen or so using a steel tube to hold them in and hopefully act as a heat sink for the bases whilst I twiddled them around with my fingers. Wrong diddly wrong wrong wrong!!!!!

 

First firings with some very light loads had popped primers and primer pockets that primers would fall out of after one firing.

 

As someone said above it is a short case and heat transfer is very efficient. My advice is keep their toes in a bit of water and you will struggle to go wrong. Longer cases might be OK in a drill or similar but my advice is play safe.

 

Use some tempilac or dim the lights and as soon as you see dull red stop - cherry red probably too hot but if the bases are in water you will be safe.

[SteveW]

 

i would imagine reloading solutions would be the best bet for tempilaq ?

cheers jock

 

Hi Jock,

 

I use these guys, depending on how often you plan on using it, it would be worth getting some Tempilaq thinners too. As they have a tendence to dry up a little, and this will keep it usable for a long time.

 

http://waltersandwalters.co.uk/tempil-temperature-indicators/tempil-tempilaq-liquid

 

Steve

[22-250jock]

thanks for the help guy's

 

have around 170 cases to do, so will try a few different methods in batches of 10 and try them first, to find which is best.

 

tempilaq on order( thanks steve )

 

have 100 new cases, to fall back on, just in case

 

cheers jock

[garyw]

my fb cases are formed 221 brass 50 cases have been loaded 6 times and are due to be reloaded soon dont have any split necks using redding s-type dies but will take a closer look from now on -i know some one who will anneal your brass for you for a fee hes just doing some for me now .

[22-250jock]

my fb cases are formed 221 brass 50 cases have been loaded 6 times and are due to be reloaded soon dont have any split necks using redding s-type dies but will take a closer look from now on -i know some one who will anneal your brass for you for a fee hes just doing some for me now .

 

hi gary

using rcbs dies, full length resizing each time

 

i know spud offers a cheap service, tumbling and annealing, just fancy having a go myself

 

cheers jock