Mark II

On 2/26/2022 at 4:36 PM, Dellboy said:

i believe you can cut them and reproof as sec 1   contact AA gunsmiths  they have done them im sure

Thank you I will give them a shout

21 hours ago, Dr. Strangelove said:

Yep, sorry, I was wrong! My friend has a cheapish one as it was manufactured from the off with a less than 24” barrel.

He’s pretty sure Uberti do a coach gun - might be worth exploring.

I will have a look on uberti website, I believe the Wyatt Earp is made by pedersoli, 

21 hours ago, Dr. Strangelove said:

I’m not 100% on this but I think you can have a S2 shotgun cut down by an RFD then proofed as a S1. I’ll ask a mate tomorrow who should know though!

Thank you it would be a lot cheaper as old side by sides are very cheap but I don't think it's allowed

13 hours ago, Geezedtee said:

24" too long then?

It's just got to be 20" for a coach gun any longer would just be wrong 😊

11 hours ago, terryh said:

Personally I'd go for a Winchester 97 pump if you could find one, allowable for CAS (or at least they were), faster to shoot and reload.

Just my 5cents

T

The pump would be nice and there is also the Winchester level action but they are both hard to find.

Unfortunately not as it's turning a shotgun into a section one firearm which is not allowed as far as I know

I fancy trying my hand at Cowboy action shooting, I have a muzzle loading revolver and lever action but would like a 12g coach gun, I have tried online and can only find the Wyatt Earp at Henry krank and as much as I would like it £1300 seems a bit steep.

Does anyone know of something a little cheaper with 20 inch barrels non ejector.

Cheers Mark

Bump

7 hours ago, Andrew said:

It is another rabbit hole to fall into. Glad you decided to avoid it. ~Andrew

Exactly you have to know when to stop and practice rifle craft more.

17 hours ago, Andrew said:

You are bound and determined to weight sort your brass, aren't you? The tolerances are for you to choose. Are you bored?  If you are sorting brass, you might as well sort your bullets too. 

I anneal every reloading.~Andrew

 I did weight 10 but they were so close I stopped,  maybe just a bit ocd.

Thank you all for your input  especially reducing powder charge for a heavier case I hadn't thought about that. 

When batching your brass what tolerance do you use between cases

3 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

I have in the past tried to see any variation at the range between five batches of 20 selected cases from 100 batch.  I could not see any correlation between tiny weight variation and precision shooting off bipod and bag at 500yds or beyond.  Obviously field testing is prone to many variables.

With Lapua brass (6.5mm; .308; .338) I have found so small a difference that I don't bother sub-dividing a batch of brass but I do keep batches separated.  I clean scrupulously so I don't have variable amounts of carbon fouling in the cases - although unless filthy I'd be surprised if it made much difference on large volume cases.

Full on benchrest shooters may think it worth their while.

Thank you for the input I always full length resize and trim but just wandered if weight would make a  noticeable difference which it appears not  so unless a case or two are way out I will give that step a miss.

Next step annealing, how often? 

31 minutes ago, Popsbengo said:

It's case volume that's important, usually done by weighing an empty case and subtracting from a case filled with water; ballistic apps like Quickload use water volume in their calculations.  I'd agree that it's highly likely that the same manufacturer's batch of cases will weigh the same when prepped as described by Andrew, and any variance will be tiny wrt volume.  Differing manufacturers and or batches may vary due to machining difference and brass alloy specification.

It's my belief that a lot of reloading practice is based on prepping low quality brass,  Lapua brass (for example) is so good that a size and trim is all that's needed.

It will be interesting to see once cleaned, sized and trimmed what the difference in weight will be compared to the ppu.

What tolerance do you look for between cases 

Thank you that's what I do each time I reload apart from the weight but out of interest I did check some ppu brass I have been reloading and it was all within a couple of grains.

Hello all

I have been given a bag of Geco 308 brass so before I start processing it all does anyone here use it and is it good for reloading. 

Also do you batch your brass by weight and if so what tolerance do you use.

Cheers Mark 

Open to sensible offers 

Henry pump action rifle,  2 years old and had very little use so in as new condition comes with box and manual.

Selling due to needing space in the safe for next purchase.

Cost £700

Quick sale £500 ono

If you have any questions please feel free to ask. 

Cheers Mark 

On 1/2/2021 at 5:54 PM, 1066 said:

That's exactly how this one works:

Yes that would work, how was it in testing 

22 hours ago, baldie said:

Should have been a holiday today, but agreed to see a chap with some work [ who never showed up ! ]

So i thought i'd do a bit for me, for a change.

Moving the thought process on from the barrel mounted brake I made earlier, which works a treat, I realised, should a customer want one, it would entail too much work, and a re-proof, when the barrel is machined. This unit is completely self contained, and doesn't alter the rifle in any way.

Looking around the internet, I saw Harrel's did a tuner fitted to a brake, so that sent me scurrying for the micrometer.

I wanted to fit one to my 3 port brake, as its a timed unit, and locked on. 

The brake was big enough to allow a thread to be machined onto its outside, for a tuner to run on.

I allowed 4 full turns, though it won't need one, just to be sure.

Machined up the tuner to clear the barrel nicely [it fits over the barrel ] and fitted three grub screws, to lock it in position with, once the correct mark is found.

Into the dividing head on the engraver, and a lick of cerakote in the marks did the trick nicely.

This is fitted to my .224 Valkyrie, which is shooting very well now with 77g TMK's.

I want to use the 85 g RDF's too, but from previous experience, they are very length sensitive.

I think i will be able to seat them , where I want them, not the gun, and tune them in at that desired length.

Thats the theory anyway, whether it works or not, only time will tell, and the range re opens.

All good fun, and made a refreshing change !

Looks good,  just thinking for use on a .22lr instead of the break could you put a thread for a moderator so as long as the rifle has a threaded barrel the tuner can be fitted to the barrel then fit the mod to the tuner or wouldn't it work that way?

Well my Oryx chassis has arrived so I will drop the T1X in it then try the parker hale mod spaced with washers first then if that doesn't work I will try a clamp as pictured above. Thats if we ever get back to the club

10 hours ago, Ronin said:

Single digit - low vertical dispersion at 1000 yd’s for example

1/4 MOA vertical dispersion would be, I suggest the baseline standard in zero wind conditions at that distance

 

 

9 hours ago, ds1 said:

Mark, use a ballistic calculator and change your MV to match the variance  you are getting with ES and see how relevant it is at the distances you shoot. 

For example, 15fps may not be worth loosing sleep over at 200m or 300m but I know for me15fps at 1km makes a 14cm vertical spread before I start adding in other factors.

To meet Andy’s criteria of 1/4 moa I need single digit ES ( FPS) 

Thank you for the info it gives me a good starting point as I have a load that is now doing half inch at 100 metres if I pay attention, so it will be interesting to see what the es is once I can arrange to borrow the chap down the club's lab radar

On this subject what would you consider being a acceptable es for target.

I  know as low as possible but what is good 

1 minute ago, Kipper said:

Lowest load should give me about 1500fps. Its the leading thats concerning me. 

Can but shoot n look

For 25 metre get some bullseye or unique you can do a very light load and save money on powder.

My bullseye load is still accurate at 100 metres just takes a bit longer to get there.

I use ITL shooting supplies or shell house they both come pre lubed .44 240 grn flat point over blue dot powder at the moment,  runs about 1100fps which is accurate in my Henry with no leading issues.

It's a good load for 100 metres 

8 minutes ago, brown dog said:

I suspect that'd be fine. Vernier? Just a mark and by eye - close enough for government work 😉

I was being posh😀

Something simple like one or more of these might do the trick, just need a vernier to measure the distance so a bit more time consuming