Ralpharama

This is a fabulous scope and is often considered one of the best in it's price bracket. I had it on my 6.5 Creedmoor which I used at 1000yards and it has been lovely and clear. My only criticism is that it's second focal plane, which many prefer, but not me. It has the DLS-1 (Mrad) reticle which is lovely and clear and doesn't interfere with view I have had to upgrade my S&B PMII on my .338 lap mag for more elevation for the mile and have one expensive scope more than I need, so I'm moving the S&B to the Creedmoor and selling this scope. For full specs see Optics Whorehoue - https://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/delta-stryker-target-ultra-ed-5-50x56-hd-sfp-lt-illuminated-zero-stop-rifle-scope There is a small blemish on the tube as can be seen in the photos, which actually looks worse in the picture than in the flesh. I haven't had it especially long, I only got the rifle at the end of last year! The bubble and rings are not included as they have moved to the new scope. £1100 including next day carriage with DPD (Optics Whorehouse currently sell these at £1689.95)

I’ll have to bow to your superior knowledge in such matters Roy 🤣 I’m very pleased with it any am like the proverbial kitty on a tin roof waiting for A&S police to do my variation so I can trade the Barrett in for s nearly new AI AXMC and nail it on 😂

Went to the show yesterday and got raped by Optics Whorehouse for a shiny new S&B PMII 6-36x56 HP. I haggled like a man and got a reasonable desk, though I doubt my wife would see it as the bargain that I do 😂 I looked through a lot of scopes at the show, but you can’t really tell until you use them at 1000yards on a rifle. I tried a night force ATACR but hated the reticle and the fact that changing mag turns the rear eye piece is madness particularly as it ships with flip up covers. I’ve had a Schmidt for a long time and know how good they are😃

Ahh now there's the rub. I'm not going to get anything any good south of £2K, it's just how far north I can go. 🤣 The ZCO looks awesome but that probably is is slightly too far. I do like the option of high magnification and have never used anything much under 20x. After being told that 25x is plenty I have tried using my scope at 25x, but always end up cranking on more.

Thanks a lot for that

I don't currently shoot anywhere that I can get out further than a mile. The rifle currently has 30MOA rail. I do have a 45MOA mount on the Barrett, though I did think that was a tad excessive given I also want to come back to 1000yards ?

I’ve just lost the plot and thrown caution to the wind and decided to trade my Barrett 98b in for an AI AXMC with the initial barrel chambered in .338LapMag as with the Barrett. The main reason was that I have a friend with a 98B with a deep throat which needs rectifying, but unlike many rifles, it is a sphincter clenchingly expensive business and may require his gun to be sent across the Atlantic to the colonials😳. Whilst no barrels come free with a gallon of petrol, most can be exchanged for a three figure investment, not so the Yankee sniper rifle. So having bitten down on a leather strap and agreed to buy the Brit equivalent, I now realise that I could have a number of different calibres in one and therefore just invest in one super duper scope for all as it were. But here’s the rub ….. which scope to buy? Currently my best scope by a country mile is my PMII 12-50 x 56. Now more than one long range shooter tells me that big magnification is not desirable. I genuinely don’t get it. I have turned it down to 25x which is supposed to be the perfect mag, but it always ends creeping up so I can see better. I tend to find on a not massively sunny day that the very high end can lose a bit of crispness, but is perfect at say 40x, which seems eminently better than 25x. I have one second focal plane scope and definitely prefer first focal plane. As I have mentioned on here in the past I want to shoot the mile. What scope would you guys buy if you were starting from scratch?

One just straps it to the barrel with the reader about quarter of an inch below the bullet path and connect it to the little box. A few button presses and then fire. The speed of the bullet is then recorded. With a string of rounds it will calculate Standard Deviation, Maximum spread and average speed. A lot of Chronographs behave badly indoors, particularly in tunnels. My club bought a LabRadar but it will very rarely work in the tunnel range! the MagnetoSpeed has been no problem in tunnels etc

Following advice from a friend, I have replaced the rear pod with a bag runner, which I made in stainless, rather than alloy to add weight to what I see as a too light rifle. I re-zeroed last night as I have changed the rings, again! and found that this made a great improvement. I now want to add more weight and will try and make some weights to the chassis where the side pic rails attach. I never attach anything to them so they are purely decorative. Any thoughts or advice? As the brake worked so well I have had it anodised for longevity.

34mm Rings that can give cant in all directions. Can be used, as I did, to determine how much MOA I can add for long distance 5-40 MOA. The set can also be used to correct any anomalies in the rifle in the windage plane. The set is 1 1/2” high, which I needed to clear the pic rail at 40MOA. I’m only selling because I wanted a one piece mount. These have been barely used and I am taking a fair hit for my indecision 🤣 £110 delivered by DPD next working day

MagnetoSpeed Sporter. Full working order. The main complaint about the Sporter is the small screen, but if you buy the extra lead (about thirty quid or less from memory) then it will connect to a phone or in my case an iPad using the excellent free downloadable app. I’m keeping my lead to use with my V3. It has less mounting options than the V3, but I did a shed load of load development with it before I came upon a used V3 I could afford 🤣 £120 including next working day delivery with DPD or a ton in folding if collected from just south of Bristol.

I am debating whether to buy a bushing die for my .338 or just use a mandrel die after using a regular die? BUshing dies for this caliber seem to be few and far between, even for ready money 🤣 Any thoughts ? I'm not going to open up the argument between Neck and Full because the world seems to be split with excellent arguments on both sides. As an engineer, I personally feel that neck sizing has the merit of not work hardening the whole case, only the bit that is regularly annealed.

I am about to get around to experimenting with the seating depth of the ELD-Ms fro my 6.5 Creedmoor and later on the their big brothers for the .338 Lap I always do such development in an indoor 100yard range to eliminate wind issues and tend to use a bench rest to remove as move of my own incompetence from the recipe as possible. In the past I have found that group size and minimum SD haven't seemed to go hand in hand. I have had amazing groups at 100 yards but the SD hasn't been the best and the best SD hasn't equated with the tightest group. WHat I don't know is which is the most critical. Does a tiny group at 100 necessarily equate to a similarly tiny group at 1000? Or does the minimal SD have more meaning at a long distance than a miniscule group at 100?

Being very mean (poor) I knocked up a brake using my own design. I usually make them in Stainless, but given this is a big mutha I thought I make a tester in alloy first. I tested it the other night and it makes a massive difference. I'll see about anodising it next. Milling the ports on my 'ickle mill was hard work, but would be twice five times as time consuming in stainless! I could take 2.5mm depth cuts in the ports in aly, but probably pushing my luck at 0.5 in 316SS . I'm hoping anodise will protect it sufficiently to get a good life out of it 😃

He's done one lot already 😃 I'll have another pile when he gets back from his world tour 🤣

You heard right and also my RCO 😃 Seems the bush telegraph is in fine fettle 🤣

I also have a 50x Delta Stryker on my 6.5CM and I don't have to get my face right into it, not that it would matter if I did cos the STR, with another of my home brewed brakes, barely moves. I shot out to 1400yards with the S&B on the 30WM and it was fine. I don't necessarily need all the mag, but I like having it on tap. I may look at changing scopes at some point, but initially I want to try and tame the beast. I'll defo take a look at some other brakes. Maybe make one, maybe buy one. Does size make a big difference? A friend has Ruger precision which has brake that looks as though it was swiped off a tank, and to be fair it doesn't kick anything like as much as my Barrett. Is big beautiful or is it in the design?

Zeroed in my new (to me) Barrett 98B chambered in .338 Lapua last night. I was shooting on a bench using a Tier One FTR BiPod. The scope is a 12-50 x 56 S&B which has the flaw IMHO that one needs to get the Mk i eyeball pretty close to the scope to see a full picture. On my Sabatti .300WM, with my own home brewed muzzle brake, this wasn't an issue as there wasn't a whole load of recoil. I did talk to one of the sales lizards on the Schmidt stand about this oddity and asked what could be done and they seemed totally disinterested. It's my only posh scope and if funds ever permit I'm not sure I would be falling over myself to be passing my hard earned to a company with so little interest in customer issues. The Barrett however seems to want to step back outside the range rapidly every time I squeeze the trigger. My grouping was non-existent as I was trying to protect myself from a dose of 'scope eye'. The brake is stock Barrett. I was surprised how light the rifle is, which I can only conclude is going to add to the recoil. I saw a chap at a shoot once who had extra weight attached to his chassis. There do seem to weights available, for a pretty penny or three, but none see to have suitable fixings for the 98B. The ones I have seen said that they're made from nitrated mild steel, so it wouldn't be byond my wit to make some, though I would be more inclined to zinc plate with black passivate for longevity. There doesn't seem to much to the stock brake and I can't help thinking that it could be better. I have fired .338s before that did recoil anything like a strongly as this one. Any thoughts?

The twist is 1 in 10. I know guys shooting the mile with the same rifle using 250gr lock-bases, but I figured the heavier ELD-Ms would stand a better chance of bucking the wind. They reckon 90.3gr of RS70 give around 3K fps I already saw the safety recall when I was looking on their site to see how to lighten the trigger. It was only the earlier ones that had the problem, my serial number was a lot later.

I have weakened and risked the wrath of SWMBO and have bought a used Barrett 98B chambered in .338 Lapua. I have some load data for 250gr Lapua lock base and have some coming. But I could do with some data on 285gr ELD-Ms which I also have coming. I'm using RS70 powder and will be using Lapua brass. Any thoughts

Thanks, I have sent you a message.

Now sent to Matt 😃

Offers?

bump.

£25?