Richiew

.625 equals a. 5/8” thread . 20 teeth per inch is unified extra fine . Measured from the top of the triangle of the first thread to the same on the last thread . 
So 5/8 th unef hopefully. 
A engineering fastener company would know . Or buy a nut of this size and check it fits. 

Try this company. Liquid to clean brass doesn’t work well on carbon in the rimfire moderator . So got specific carbon cleaner to use in the ultrasonic bath - much better. 
https://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-and-powders

My redding dies sit in the bottom of the drawer only to be used when the Forster one started to put a bad ring on the ogive of 155 eldms in 308 . Had to give the Forster a good clean and lube the internal s a bit but now all ok again . I’m only loading for 223/308 so there’s the main set of Forster and a couple of hornady dies that get regular use and the L E WILSON mandrel s . 
cheers 
 

Wilson dies use a felt pad

Tech Line & Tips (FAQs)

Redding Die Lock Rings

Steel Strength Buffered for Thread Protection

There have been some concerned comments on chat boards as well as customer comment sections regarding an un-based fear that the Steel Set Screw in a Redding Lock ring can damage the threads of the die.

Please be advised, that in all Redding dies shipped from the factory the lock ring has a piece of Bismuth captured behind the set screw which engages the die threads as the set screw is turned in. This is more costly but far more effective than a simple brass screw, which can be easily stripped and therefore made unusable. Redding uses steel on steel for strength but places a piece of lead between the set screw and the die threads as a buffer to protect the threads from damage and provide a secure lock-up.

If you have further questions, please feel free to contact our tech line (607) 753-3331

is the little bit of soft metal still there if so don’t over tighten. If it’s gone your tightened down directly on the threads and it’s going to cause problems. 
I found a tiny bit of brass on the gun room floor , took me ages to work out that it came from my rcbs trimmer and by then I’d damaged the threads . Cleaned up the threads with a Swiss file , greased and put the brass pad back in. All ok now 

Thanks for the reply regarding stainless, that’s good to know. I have ASE Rimfire mods on both the 22lr and hmr and often get some flyers which I put down to bits of crud in the end cap as after a tap out in the field the accuracy comes back to normal. 
I’ll keep your designs in mind if I need to change my mods . 
Good luck 

My 17 hmr mod needs regular cleaning to get rid of lumps of powder residue that can clog up the baffles/ end cap . Using it in cold weather ends up with the inside being very wet so something that can be taken apart and cleaned would be my preference.

Have a look at Chris Parkins review of the new CZ. Looks pretty interesting. Maybe a bit heavy on the trigger . 
cheers 

Great bit of gear lads and lasses. Bargain. 
 

Just for info 

Sistema 1 litre boxes make great bullet storage ideas . Hold 500 185 bergers or a thousand 223 77 grain Lapuas . As pictured also good for kids crayons 

I’ve only noticed this problem with the new dark blue boxes of lapua brass the older lighter blue boxed brass were good to go straight out of the box, then they got the full works on their first resizing. 

Hi there 

my last sets of 308 and 223 brass from lapua have also been rather tight on first reload. So had to mandrel size the rest and go back to a normal redding seater die rather than my micrometer Forster one which was leaving a bad ring at the contact point on the bullets ( 178 eldms ) . Also needed a good bit more chamfering on the inside of the neck to get a smooth bullet seating. Lyman vld type tool works well. 
Lapuas quality may have drifted a bit with all these wars going on?? 
They just take a little more preparation. Buy in bulk there’s shortages coming again . 
cheers

Does it have a safety too ???

Plus one for what lapua said .

 I use ultra short pm2 5-20 x50 for the 22 lr , 17 hmr and the 223 . 
The hmr and 223 have a very close zero so that is on a spuhr quick release mount. The other one is permanently on a 22 anschutz for bunny control and zeroed at 45 yards so is also spot on at 25 . I have a copy of the p4 fine ret with my drops marked on sellotaped to the front flip up cover. Mostly used in the 10 to 14 magnification range even on the close targets. 

Finally there’s a 3-27x56 on the 308 target rifle. Great to spot holes in the target at 300 yards for load development. Before the above I would use a 6-24 x56 hawke , very good but second focal and don’t think it had a zero stop . Very happy using FFP for everything from bunnies and fox to longrange 700 yards with great results and some use upto 1000 yards. 
 

Dauntsey guns have good stock of hornady bullets. 
last primers were from forest lodge near Lincoln a four hour round trip for me . 
powders from bh firearms near Durham if your oop north anytime . 
Try some of the rfds who deal from home if the big boys don’t have stock and buy as much as possible. 
The shows might be a good place next year at the NEC 

Thanks for the info lots of lovely toys on that website. It’s gonna cost me some cash .

cheers

Looking forward to your review. 
where did you get that loading tray from please. , looks great. Might be something wifey can get me as she’s usually stumped what to do for Christmas.

cheers

Some of my favourite loads for 308 cal are nearly 2 grain s over what hornady specifies for their 155 ELD, these loads were worked up in small increments and have no pressure signs and are not compressed. 
Where will I stand if some jobsworth comes along and says Your using too much!!!!

Thinking this will be our main problem. We used to have to submit our load data at eskdalemuir years back. 
If going by the speed s on factory ammo ie 2660 fps for a Berger 185 us reloaders Will definitely be over the max compared to the manual’s. 
 

cheers

Not sure but it was inside info from one of his regular shooters. Lol

Thanks for the info did nt realise there were these types of legislation. I’ll keep my magneto a bit longer before making the jump . Richard Utting might be doing a review sometime?? .

cheers

Sounds like you’re good to go . A nice varmint barreled tikka with sako 55 grain soft points is a good starting place. 
Good luck 

You’ll need- any lawful quarry on your license then you’re not stuck to one species . Most land up our way in North Yorkshire seems to be upto 243 passed but I did get my 308 allowed for ALQ for deer etc instead of buying another rifle . Less rifles but ones that can do many roles keep the Feo happy. If it’s a small area of land a hmr works well upto a 100 yards ?? . Give the Feo a ring if you’re not sure, they re very helpful in our area. 
cheers

Valkyrie rifles do lighter springs for tikka rifles . I fitted a timney trigger to my t3x and am very happy with it but it doesn’t lock the bolt on safe so sometimes the bolt knob can catch on clothing and not be ready for the shot . 

Rice works quite well in my caldwell bag that fits over a car window . Plastic chip would be very lightweight it’s like what’s in beanie babies. Or polystyrene beads if needed to be superlight.

Enjoy your new toy mate it will come straight to your door. 
Had to read up on the software updates regarding calibration and the flow setting s . Also adjusted the run up times for main feed to slow feed and the transition times/weight s to get it to work better on N150 . 
N135 was great with standard setting. 
Start with all the dots at midpoint .

used the memories for n135/140/540/150 powders. 
Make sure the scales are well warmed up before you use them. An hour turned on beforehand will help. 
cheers