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Miseryguts

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Posts posted by Miseryguts

  1. Hi,

    Clearing out the loading room:

     

    44Magnum/44special

    400+ 200gn LNRFP bullet       £20.00 +£6.50 postage

     44 Special

    44 Special Factory Crimp Die and 44 Special Powder thru and neck expander die

    £15 incl. postage

    94 once fired 44 Special cases tumbled and sized FOC with Dies

    Or the whole lot (bullets, dies, and cases) for £30 + £6.50 postage

     

    223 brass cases all tumbled, sized, trimmed and bevelled. All ready to prime and load

    Mainly once fired, some(few) twice fired

    100 Remington OAL 1.756-1.758

    100 Winchester OAL 1.755-1.759

    100 mixed Remington(80) and Winchester(20)

    Individually: per 100 £12 incl. postage. Whole lot:  £28 incl. postage

     223 BRASS NOW SOLD

    Ammunition boxes

    3 MTM Case guard flip top rifle case. Green.  RS-50 £6 + £4 postage

    2 MTM Case Guard flip top rifle case. Green.  RS-100 £6 + £4 postage

    Whole lot £12 + £4 postage  THESE NOW SOLD

    Postage at cost without a packing charge – don’t moan at me, moan at Royal Mail

    Or if anyone passing near Usk, can arrange collection

    PM if interested

    M

     

  2. 5 minutes ago, 264wm said:

    MG,

           do the  extractor  plungers fully depress? The  images look as if the  plungers are binding on the head.

     

    Hi, the extractor plungers do full depress when manually activated, but as I said before, the springs are pretty strong.

    As you say, the marks on the cases are caused by said plungers. Having lubricated the bolt, things are getting better, so I am happy (if that is the word!)  that the problem has been caused by binding of the extractor plungers and extractor claw. I have now been able to check head space and all that seems ok. So now off to range to let some rounds off

    Thanks again to all who have taken the trouble to make suggestions

    M (slightly less miserable in wet S Wales)

  3. OK starting to see the light

    Rifle and bolt have both got the relevant proof marks

    As per advice above, large dollop of gun grease (well  I think it is, I have had it 20 years and the writing has rubbed off) on the lugs, extractor pins and the extractor claw and it is stating to load a lot easier - but nothing like my TX3.

    I think that the problem is a) very strong extractor springs, b) a slightly off extractor claw, and c) you have to have exactly the right technique

    The extractor pins are still scratching the case as the bolt rotates into the closed position.

    Any one recommend a good grease?

    M ( a little happier, but still not satisfied in still wet S Wales)

  4. Thanks for all the suggestions., and thanks to all who took the time to make said suggestions

    to answer some of the questions above, as in my previous posts

    The empty cases are brand new and sized in a brand new F/L sizing die

    I have tried standard ammunition - Winchester

    I will be returning the rifle as soon as the owner returns

    I agree that Sauer are crap at QC and how the hell did the proof house test it without chambering a cartridge!! - or doesn't proof require firing a proof load any more?

    M (pretty pissed off in wet S wales)

  5. 3 minutes ago, ejg223 said:

    Bring it back, I would not touch a rifle out of that factory. On German forums they suggest that Blaser/Mauser/Sauer only proof the odd rifle (in house proofing ) ….. I think that is true.

    edi

    I am rapidly coming round to that - but how does one stand on the exchange - this rifle is now on my ticket - do I have to get another variation?

  6. 1 hour ago, Ronin said:

    Clean the chamber and barrel - there may be some debris in the chamber causing the ammunition not to chamber properly 

     

    If the chamber is clean and free of debris ,,,,,,,and the ammunition still will not chamber without a fight 

     

    Take the rifle back to where you bought it and ask them to check headspace with go / no go gauges to start with

     

    Is there any marking on the shoulder of the cases you have tried to close the bolt on 

     

    Have you tried any other factory ammunition in it other than what you have in the inages 

     

    Any 308 proofed with SaAMI / CIP gauges should accept any factory produced ammunition that comply with SaAMI /CIP 

     

    Yes, before I took it to the range I cleaned it and had a look down the bore with  bore light. The ammo is winchester and the cases are PPU sized in a F/L die.  Have ordered a Head Space bushing but they are out of stock at 1967 Spud. When I push the bolt forward on the case, the bolt stops about 2mm short. If I then exert straight line force on the bolt, it goes fully home, and closes fairly easily. If I then raise the handle, it goes back down easily, but if I extract and start again, then force is again required. This leads me to think it is a problem with the extractor not sliding under the rim? Or am I completely wrong and its all down to the chamber headspace being wrongly machined?

    1 hour ago, Popsbengo said:

    I'd be burning up the tarmac back to the dealer who sold it you!  Brand new? That bolt looks horrible - maybe just the light?

     

    Yes, its the light and lack of pixels. Sadly the dealer (also a friend) has gone on Holiday  til next Saturday

    M (still pretty miserable in S Wales)

  7. 19 minutes ago, bradders said:

    As Pops says, what action/rifle is it?

    Factory or custom build?

    Also are those ejectors moving freely?

    Brand new factory rifle  - Sauer 100 Field shoot 308 win calibre, and yes both the rifle, brass and cartridges all say 380 win

    the two ejectors have very strong springs but seem ok movement wise, it takes a bit of effort to depress them, but if I remove the bolt and use  a case I can depress them and clip under the extractor fairly easily.

    The bolt chambers the case, but unless I whack the bolt down, the case stays in the chamber when I withdraw the bolt. If I whack it down, then it all extracts. It is the whacking down that is giving the brass damage, but why I am at a loss

  8. Hi, this one is outside my experience.

    New rifle,  took to range with some shop ammo, unable to close bolt.

    Came home inserted bran new full sized case, could close bolt if I whacked it with heel of hand (loth to do that with live cartridge!!)

    Attached are photos of brass transfer to bolt face, and scratches to cartridge bases.

    Head space problem would surely just knock the shoulder back?

    M (even more miserable now)

     

     

    20190805_115302.jpg

    20190805_115855.jpg

  9. Hi, starting a new project  - decided to have a go at the longer range stuff (have shot my 223 up to 300 yards for a few years ) and take delivery of a new rifle in 308 Win tomorrow. Any recommendations for a good starting point for bullet weight for 600 to 800 yard stuff? Have only got H335 powder in stock at the moment, but will be sourcing something more suitable soon(N140, N150? or N540, N550?).

    Rifle is Sauer 100 Field shoot with 24 inch barrel. got a die set, brass, and some 150gn FMJBT  on the way, so looking forward to having a play shortly!

    Any pointers, recommendations etc welcomed

    M grinning in sunny South Wales

  10. 2 hours ago, martin_b said:

    Can anyone recommend ( or has for sale ) a target scope with parallax adjustment for targets anywhere between 20m and 100m. 

    Not looking to spend a fortune as I'm just getting started in the sport. It will be primarily for bench rest, but maybe a bit of LWS and 3 position as well.

    Hawke Airmax - cheap as chips, does the job, and is illuminated. Readily available retail and second hand. Mine is an old one with MoA turrets and a mil dot recticle(!) but they may have seen the light by now. I swap mine twixt air rifle and rimfire (QD rings)

    M

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