Catch-22

1 hour ago, Popsbengo said:

I see.  That's going to change then for barrels.  Am I correct to assume that moderators can still be NVD?

 

Good question - I’m not sure.

At present, all my moderators, spare barrels and spare bolts are listed on my FAC with no serial numbers. That, despite the US purchase, where each item had to have an ID and serial, seemingly none of that individual info found its way onto my FAC. The firearms licensing just followed their ‘old’ rules of NVD.

What things will be like from today, moving forward, I’m not sure. If I were to have another ‘spare barrel’ spun up, it may now need a serial and ID and placed on my FAC?! I suspect different forces will do things slightly differently perhaps?!

32 minutes ago, Popsbengo said:

Yes, I've read it.  It does clarify the guidance in so far as to take away the ambiguity of who is responsible to get the GP to submit feedback - it's the applicant and the applicant is responsible for any costs.   The guidance isn't asking the Police to make a medical judgement but rather to consider the advice of the relevant GP.   This guidance cuts both ways:  if the Police refuse a grant on the basis of a medical concern, they will need to explain just how that was arrived at, so, if the medical report does not indicate one of the reasons to refuse a grant then they have no grounds in my opinion and can be challenged.

All in all I support the checks an balances,  it seems proportionate to me in balancing the need for public assurance and the wants of the applicant.

With regard to your second point it was my understanding that for a FAC holder, any barrel that's chambered must be identified and on the FAC. 

Nope, I’ve got multiple barrels for my rifles in various calibre's and the ‘spare barrels’ get entered on to my FAC with just that: ‘spare barrel’ and the ID mark ‘NVD’. 

Same for my moderators; ‘sound moderator’ and ‘NVD’.

Its the action that has the serial written into the FAC.
 

1 hour ago, furrybean said:

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/statutory-guidance-for-police-on-firearms-licensing?fbclid=IwAR02zlJBFJuuF3ahZQCcJ8lIIhKdcFdk4_pQsC9yFV89vmnW19KQqp5FnGI

Has anyone read the new guidance? There is the change to the wording around the accessing of doctors information:

Whats confusing me is how Im going to manage the second part, with the ID mark on component parts. I have several spare barrels that get worn out and replaced. Does each of these now require and ID and a one to one variation by the new letter of the law?

Regarding your 2nd point about ID marks on component parts, I had to ensure this was so for items I had brought through customs from the US.

Before leaving the US, the import company (U.K. side) advised of this new legislation and said best get the ID marks done US side, as without them they may get seized.

In the end, the receiver, 2x bolt bodies, and all chambered barrels had an ID laser etched and comprised of; Impact (action manufacturer), Rifle serial, Type (barrel, bolt etc) and part count (e.g. Barrel #1, Barrel #2 etc).

However, this all related to a rifle and bits I was shipping over. Dunno if gunsmiths U.K. side will do all of the ID marks for U.K. builds though?! I suspect not.

Is the rail on top of the receiver part of the receiver (all one machined part) or is it a screwed/pinned rail? If the latter, try removing, checking there’s nothing between rail & receiver.

Also, If the rail is a removable type, check if it has an incline. If it does, check the rail is installed the correct way around, otherwise it’ll be angling upwards thus loosing you elevation.

Same for the rings, are they incline rings? If so, ensure they’re installed the correct way around.

CLR is fine on stainless barrels, just be careful if your barrel is blued as it’ll start to take the finish off.

After running some patches through the bore and everything looks clean, I use a dry patch to soak up any remaining CLR, then neutralise any remaining CLR with either some Hoppes 009 or Corrosion X, which I use a light film of to coat and protect the bore before going into the cabinet. 

Good piece about CLR here:

https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/evolution-barrel-cleaning

Best carbon remover I’ve ever used, and still use, is CLR.

ive tried all the usual suspects (Hoppes 009, C2R, Boretech xyz etc) but CLR actually works very wel.

Sadly it’s only available from the US and comes in large containers, but not overly expensive and will last a lifetime. Literally my first patch comes out foaming instantly, I can see even very stubborn carbon being dissolved with ease. My second patch comes out almost totally clean. Third patch is dry and comes out clean. Bore looks lovely.

Its apparently totally fine to use on stainless barrels, not that I leave it in there as I have no need - it cleans so quickly.

It doesn’t eat the copper though, but I use Sweets for that and only when my barrel tells me when I need to do so.

I got mine off eBay, shipped from the US.

Bargain for someone!

Good luck with the sale 

Dunno what underleaver you’ve got, but there are plenty of YouTube videos that show you how to slick up an U/L.

I found a bunch which helped with my Rossi 92. Polished all sear, trigger, raceway surfaces. And I installed a Palo Verde spring kit. With the Rossi, even just changing the ejector spring made a massive difference to the smoothness before polishing.

I’ve put around 900 rounds (.44mag) through it since the tweaks and it’s 100% reliable. All very simple to do - I suggest you just give it a go.

You will of course need someone to thread and proof the barrel though.

Done

Suggest you contact AIM directly. They don’t seem to list the straps as an aftermarket accessory. But I’m sure they can supply to you if you ask.

Deprime, clean, anneal, f/l size, trim, chamfer & deburr, prime, load, shoot

58 minutes ago, Happy plinker said:

Hello guys,
I was wondering if yous could help. I have a aim drag bag and was wondering if it's possible to buy straps that basically turn it into a ruck sack. If possible could you provide a link please

Your AIM bag will / should contain the straps already.

On the back of the pack, you’ll see two zips (high and low) going horizontal across the bag. 
unzip both and the straps should be in there. Use the clips on the loops inside of those zip compartments to fasten ‘rucksack’ straps. Done.

Hardness testing will simply tell you if it’s annealed or not. But testing over a chronny will show you how successful or not the annealing has been.

You still need to understand which ‘hardness’ value (time/temp) achieves the best for your reloading (lowering ES) and most consistent groups on target. Otherwise it’s still just plucking a number out of the air and hoping it’s the best (on target)…which it might not actually be.

👆And that’s absolutely correct.

Run some batches of cases through the annealer for different times and go shoot them over a chronny.

Like a Sine wave on its way down, You should see ES start to drop but then rise again. The batch of cases where the ES dropped before rising again is the optimum temperature/time combo for your annealing. Then just anneal all cases per that temperature/time 👍

19 hours ago, geek said:

Have you tried Country Sports Insurance | Public Liability, Legal Advice & Personal Accident Injury Solicitors | UK (ccc3.co.uk)

I am only a target shooter and I have taken out insurance with these for quite a while , but probably worth a look and not too expensive.

I too am with Country Cover Club (ccc3).

Haven't had to use them yet (hopefully never) thank goodness, so can’t comment on how good they’ll be when you need them.

9 minutes ago, DaveT said:

Great...I will give my 338 LM a long overdue outing!

Excellent!

However, bear in mind many of the MDRC aren’t keen on brakes.
Not shot with them on an MOD range, so might not be an issue there, but you must use a moddy, not a brake, if lighting up in the Tunnel.

Suggest bring a moddy to Warminster to be on the safe side.

6 hours ago, DaveT said:

Jim

Any advance on HME RCO for Warminster?

MDRC may have relevant quals ....only just joined so not sure.

MDRC does have an HME RCO as I understand. They frequently have a dedicated HME session at the Tunnel…perfect for getting sighted in and ‘practice’ ahead of a HME at the range.

I for one will be bringing my .338NM along to Warminster in Nov. 👍

Yeah the MME bullets are very good. And I like the fact that you’re supporting a local, independent chap, not some massive organisation based in the US.

Im not sure what twist your .300wm will be, but mine being an AI with a fairly slow 1-11” likes the 200gn a lot.

Personally I think the 208gn ELDM was just too long to stabilise properly. However that could have been the shape, rather than weight. I might ask Peter if he could do a 220gn Wimbledon bullet. However, the 200gn has shot nicely and will still do well at distance.

I liked VN165, nice and clean burning. Didn’t really get any pressure signs with it. Recoil impulse felt nice and comfortable, not sharp like some powders can be.

174gn PPU. worked best with my No4 Longbranch 2 groove.

I did try the 180gn S&B bullets but found the 174gn grouped better when I did the OCW test at 100m and also seemed to stabilised better and were more consistent at distance (300m).

Using Murom LR primers, PPU brass and Vhit N140.

Both air rifles now spoken for, subject to handover.

Many thanks 👍

Webley Tracker now gone, awaiting handover.

Diana 52 still here. It’s a great gun and I’m sure something a gunsmith could fix very quickly. It is free after all 😎

10 hours ago, garyw said:

iv had both of these rifles i also gave them away .good on you.

Thanks 👍

Excellent for getting youngsters into shooting & learning safety.

That’s right…both lovely air rifles are free if you want them. Collection Newport or Monmouth Tunnel club only pls!

Webley Tracker, 22cal, right handed, nice walnut stock with slight scratch/chip on forend. Comes with Webley sound moderator and 30mm (I think!?!) rings. 
This was my first hunting rifle, which I got for my 11th birthday. Taken plenty of rabbit and grey squirrel.

My late father’s Diana 52, 22cal, right handed. Bog standard stock, some use marks. Also comes with sound moderator (unknown make). Comes with 30mm (I think?!?) rings. 
There is an issue with this gun - gun will cock (cocking arm does appear to go all the way back) but doesn’t for some reason go forward again to close breech and fire. I think there’s something with the safety ratchet system which stops the breech going forward should you accidentally let go of the cocking arm as you’re charging the spring. Dunno. 

Anyhoo…both free if you want them.

Randomly came across a brilliant 70s Swiss infantry promotional video.

Brilliantly put together. Even the music is top draw!

3 hours ago, Jeffo1960 said:

Thanks for that, why I was asking as they do another one, bit more money, but it is heavier, will give one a try thanks again 

If you’re referring to the more expensive ‘Full Auto’ version, then you won’t need it - as you’re not firing full auto. 
Their regular moddy cover will melt if using on something like an M4 doing full mag dumps. Which you’re not, so don’t need to worry about it. 👍