Andrew

I hope so! I loaded and shot some last week! I have always believed the detonation issue is really "plugging" where the bullet is forced into the rifling and no further, sealing the bore . ~Andrew

3 hours ago, Shuggy said:

Thank you. I always worry about the usual dire warnings of going below published minimum loads!

THe HP White lab years ago did tests trying to cause the dreaded "detonation" that everyone fears. They has a hard time making it happen. Some powders, yes. The data will specifically tell you not to go below minimum. Most powders just give poor results. A buddy of mine accidentally loaded half charges of (I believe) H335 in his 17 Fireball and all he got was crap accuracy and sooty cases.

Am I the only one old enough to remember when loading data came with the advice to start 5% below minimum? Sure enough.~Andrew

On 9/13/2020 at 1:45 AM, Shuggy said:

Hi Andrew, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook lists a starting load of 20 grains of 5744 with a 200 grain bullet. How did you come to settle on 18.5 grains?

Because I started shooting it before Lyman produced any data. In the Cast Bullet Association it was a well known load for cases from 303 to 30-06 and 7,62x54. I juggled the load a gain or so each way. In a 30-06 I was shooting 19.5 grains, a 30-40 Krag Jorgensen 18.5. Same for 308.~Andrew

I have a lot of CZ's and yes, it would be 'easier' but the triggers always need changing out. The Tikka's take a quick adjust and they are done. My KSG chassis doubled the weight of the TX1. Five and change to 10 and change. I'm not certain a heavy barrel is any advantage.  That rifle squats on it's bipod and doesn't move.~Andrew

Good to hear.~Andrew

I have a pair of them, and recently bought one for my girlfriend because, once she shot mine, she HAD to have one. I have had ZERO issues with the three I have purchased, and my good friend and shooting partner has had no issues with his. I have no clue why the average shooter would buy one of these rifles and immediately toss the SAKO-made barrel. All of mine shoot well under MOA. My girlfriend shot hers last Saturday and put 10 shots into  a .32" hole at 50 yards using SK Biathlon. I have fired groups as small as .28 at the same distance with Federal UltraMatch.(R-50) Somewhere on this site I posted some 10 shot, 100 yard groups that hover right around MOA., fired on an outdoor range with our typical Montana 'breezes'. I believe in that same thread, I posted the account of my hunting partner, another friend, and myself swapping rifles and ammo to see if the SAKO Finnfire heavy barrel was more accurate than the T1Xs. We swapped rifles back and forth and used ammunition (s) from the same box or LOT, and came to the conclusion that there was no difference in accuracy between the two T1X and the SAKO Finnfire. Look it up.

BTW: I have a KRG chassis on the T1X I use for target work. Love it.~Andrew

Unique will also work. I've forgotten: Does  LOVEX make Accurate Arms's 5744? If so that is a certain winner once the bullet diameter is sorted. About 17 - 18.5  grains, NEVER a filler. I won many military rifle BR comps with that load adjusted a grain one way or the other depending on the cartridge I was using. I shot mostly Finns and Brits (they were ridiculously inexpensive in those days) and 18.5 grains with a 200 ish grain bullet, well fit to the gun and seated to kiss the lands, would often shoot as well as my eyes and skill would allow. I hope you get as much enjoyment chucking Pb from your Lee as I do my mine.~Andrew

I'd like that info too.~Andrew

On 9/3/2020 at 2:27 AM, RobinC said:

 

.22rf, crude cases, primers spun into the rim, small volume of powder (bigger variables), very crude light lead bullet, bullet seating? Its just jammed in the case.  I'm surprised they are as accurate as they are!!

 

You know very little about how 22LR is produced.~Andrew

5 hours ago, alpha1 said:

If you are serious about going down the cast bullet route you do not want hard cast bullets.

Forget the Lee expander get a Lyman Mdie and buy a copy of the Lyman cast bullet manual.

What is the definition of serious? I've got over 100 molds and 4 lubricator/sizers . I have at least 2 dozen rifles I shoot nothing but cast bullets through.  I have been shooting cast bullets for 45 years and did extensive experimentation with high velocity cast bullets from bottle necked cartidges for a couple of decades. I have competed in Cast Bullet Association cast bullet bench rest comps and won a few. I shoot very hard bullets most of the time and use a Lee Universal expander. I seldom use the Lyman handbook for load data. 

..And yet I consider myself a serious cast bullet shooter.~Andrew

Generically sized cast bullets are either great, because they offer the diameter you want, or they suck because they stick to 'standard' sizes like .309" for 30 cal, or .311" for 303 and the like.  I have a P-14 with a .317" groove diameter. You can imagine the lack of accuracy if I even shot a .312" through it .If you are able to measure a five groove slug, then that would be a good place to start as an absolute minimum diameter with light loads.~Andrew

The more jacketed rounds you put down the barrel, the more work it will be to rid the barrel of the jacket fouling which will cause leading and ruin accuracy. I don't know what your expectations are for accuracy but a No1 MkIII with a well fit cast bullet and loaded well will deliver (from a good rifle) minute of shooter error. "slugging the bore" of a five groove barrel can be difficult and ultimately, of less value than doing a chamber cast to include the throat diameter. If you order your bullets .001 - 0015"  under throat diameter you can forget the groove diameter of the barrel. My 1950's  No4MkII's have .310 groove diameters but shoot a .314" bullet because the throat is .315". IF you are offered a two diameter bullet (set of driving bands at the base, longish nose on the front) and a "Loverine" type with a short nose and a long series of driving bands the length of the bullet, choose the latter. An undersized nose will do nothing for accuracy. Better to have a longer series of driving bands than the opposite and an undersized nose.

Again, it all boils down to your expectations. If you mostly want to make the rifle go bang, anything will do. If you want to get serious about accuracy then, eventually, you will need to think about casting your own -which is a whole study in itself. I spent many days shooting my Lee's with cast bullets for fun and competition. I hope you have as much fun as I have had.~Andrew

3 hours ago, Kipper said:

I plan on just buying them,  I have little free time to reload as it is without learning how to cast them.. there resonable inexpensive from shellhouse for 500 and come gas checked etc.

Ill look out for that powder, so far I've been only told unique which works in the 44 also

What diameter bullet are you planning on using, and for what rifle? I have fired, literally, thousands of cast bullets from dozens 303's (From Martini's to No4MkII) over the last 4 decades so I have some experience with them. First hint: Get all the copper out of the barrel before you even start.~Andrew

I won't apologize for my wording. I meant it and, yes, it shows my absolute lack of compassion for invasive and destructive species. ~Andrew

The picture makes it look like a bent bit of metal but it is a substantial block with matching cuts in the receiver.

I was also surprised that there was no fan fare about it. I pulled the barreled action out of the stock to replace the trigger and noticed it when i was reassembling it. Unlike my standard American Grendel I bought a few years back -which required bedding and pillars to get to where it is now (excellent)  -this rifle has performed right from the box.~Andrew

I kill game animals quickly and humanely. But the likes of prairiedogs and feral hogs I have little feeling for. I do my best but if it's a lethal hit I won't waste another bullet to put it out of a few moments of misery. ~Andrew

Yeah. That's nutz.~Andy

On 8/3/2020 at 5:56 AM, Xtrema said:

Save your money and get a CZ 527. They make a varmint MTR for .223.

Excellent value for money.

Seriously ungainly wood. 

I have the CZ 527 American Varmint in 6.5 Grendel and the bedding has been updated to a V-Block system. I don't know if the MTR has the same system but i know that my CZ required no 'fiddling' to shoot well -other than getting rid of that single set trigger.  I hope CZ adopts this system for all their 527 variants. Very accurate rifles.~Andrew

1.5 billion in agricultural damage done every year by what is, basically, an invasive species. I think of them as 180 pound prairiedogs. Wounded and left to die is still dead and that's good. Canada has not controlled their feral hog population and it is threatening Montana.  They will be slaughtered whole sale and heartlessly if they turn up on this side of the border.~Andrew 

I used a Nightforce 20 MOA ring/base mount. Pricey but it took care of the  mounting and lack of a 20 MOA rail all in one go. (About $300 US) ~Andrew

I have one. You won't be disappointed.~Andrew

Been there. Done that! ~Andrew

Nothing in the front. That's why the CZ's are a popular gun to install pillar bedding on..  The latest varmint 527's are bedded like this. A steel V-block mating to a corresponding cut in  the receiver- Plus the blob of glass. This is a 6.5 Grendel Varmint model. Shot fabulously right out of the box. The standard weight Grendel a few years back made me work at it. I finally pillar bedded and free floated. Now it's one of the most accurate rifles I own.~Andrew

Good luck. I'll hold my breath.~Andrew

10 hours ago, No i deer said:

.....but the new deeper seating may cause pressures signs.

Unlikely.~Andrew