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yukon 6.5x50


dazzer

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so I have bought the Yukon 6.5x50 and have bore sighted it 25m and the adjustment for the elevation is nearly at max any thoughts

Hi dazzler, unfortunately it is a know problem with the photon.Either buy some sportsmatch adjustable mounts or do as I did and get some old negative film and shim the mount,I put 4 pieces under the back mount and hey presto!

Good luck

dave

Ps dusted mine off this weekend and shot a fox at 150m.

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Hi dazzler, unfortunately it is a know problem with the photon.Either buy some sportsmatch adjustable mounts or do as I did and get some old negative film and shim the mount,I put 4 pieces under the back mount and hey presto!

Good luck

dave

Ps dusted mine off this weekend and shot a fox at 150m.

thanks dave for the info

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There's a way to zero the photon without using adjustable mounts or shimming mounts.

This should be done with the scope already mounted on the rifle and the reticle in the X=0 and Y=0 position

Where the 30mm scope tube attaches to the front, main part of the scope which contains the sensor and the objective lens, you'll see two semi circular clamps (one of which is marked YUKON)

Each clamp has two socket head cap screws and the heads of these screws are filled with rubbery gunk.

Us a fine pointed tool to remove the rubbery gunk and then use an allen key to loosen the 4 clamp screws.

When the screws are loose, grip the front main part and give it a bit of a twist to break the seal between it and the 30mm tube.

Now you can wiggle the front part of the scope around so that the sensor is pointing to your POI.

It will take a little fiddling to get it lined up correctly and you'll need to fire a few shots along the way to see how close you're getting but at the end of the process it will be as close to perfect as you want.

Obviously you need to retighten the 4 screws and check that the POI hasn't shifted.

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

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There's a way to zero the photon without using adjustable mounts or shimming mounts.

This should be done with the scope already mounted on the rifle and the reticle in the X=0 and Y=0 position

Where the 30mm scope tube attaches to the front, main part of the scope which contains the sensor and the objective lens, you'll see two semi circular clamps (one of which is marked YUKON)

Each clamp has two socket head cap screws and the heads of these screws are filled with rubbery gunk.

Us a fine pointed tool to remove the rubbery gunk and then use an allen key to loosen the 4 clamp screws.

When the screws are loose, grip the front main part and give it a bit of a twist to break the seal between it and the 30mm tube.

Now you can wiggle the front part of the scope around so that the sensor is pointing to your POI.

It will take a little fiddling to get it lined up correctly and you'll need to fire a few shots along the way to see how close you're getting but at the end of the process it will be as close to perfect as you want.

Obviously you need to retighten the 4 screws and check that the POI hasn't shifted.

 

Cheers

 

Bruceh

thanks for the info however as I have just bought the unit think ill try the film shims 1st then buy some adj mounts if that doesn,t work

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so I have bought the Yukon 6.5x50 and have bore sighted it 25m and the adjustment for the elevation is nearly at max any thoughts

I had the same problem , there are 2 types of adjustable sportmatch mounts ,one that only adjust the height and the other is fully adjustable.

If you buy the mounts ,you only need to make small screw adjustments at a time .

Have you got a doubler?

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I take it that it's POI is low ?

If so, shim the rear ring , I use insulating tape, about 4 layers on the bottom of the ring ..

This has put both mine bang on - in fact one is on 'O' the other on ' -2' at 85 yards

 

Scope height will effect it, as will your chosen zero distance,

For both mine ( .223 & 17 Hornet ) I like a 85 yard zero, as my units are 3" bore to bore = this gives me flat shooting ( 0.5" ) out to 185 yards and only - 0.5 " at 200 yards

 

I don't use adjustable mounts as I find I don't get the desired eye relief .. I prefer to use QD 1 peace ' lean back ' mounts on weaver rails, so I can swap out to glass if I wish

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Hi guys I've sorted this problem by fitting 4 pieces of 35mm film now the sight pic is centre for a 50yard zero

I take it that it's POI is low ?

If so, shim the rear ring , I use insulating tape, about 4 layers on the bottom of the ring ..

This has put both mine bang on - in fact one is on 'O' the other on ' -2' at 85 yards

Scope height will effect it, as will your chosen zero distance,

For both mine ( .223 & 17 Hornet ) I like a 85 yard zero, as my units are 3" bore to bore = this gives me flat shooting ( 0.5" ) out to 185 yards and only - 0.5 " at 200 yards

I don't use adjustable mounts as I find I don't get the desired eye relief .. I prefer to use QD 1 peace ' lean back ' mounts on weaver rails, so I can swap out to glass if I wish

I take it that it's POI is low ?

If so, shim the rear ring , I use insulating tape, about 4 layers on the bottom of the ring ..

This has put both mine bang on - in fact one is on 'O' the other on ' -2' at 85 yards hi

Scope height will effect it, as will your chosen zero distance,

For both mine ( .223 & 17 Hornet ) I like a 85 yard zero, as my units are 3" bore to bore = this gives me flat shooting ( 0.5" ) out to 185 yards and only - 0.5 " at 200 yards

I don't use adjustable mounts as I find I don't get the desired eye relief .. I prefer to use QD 1 peace ' lean back ' mounts on weaver rails, so I can swap out to glass if I wish

I take it that it's POI is low ?

If so, shim the rear ring , I use insulating tape, about 4 layers on the bottom of the ring ..

This has put both mine bang on - in fact one is on 'O' the other on ' -2' at 85 yards

Scope height will effect it, as will your chosen zero distance,

For both mine ( .223 & 17 Hornet ) I like a 85 yard zero, as my units are 3" bore to bore = this gives me flat shooting ( 0.5" ) out to 185 yards and only - 0.5 " at 200 yards

I don't use adjustable mounts as I find I don't get the desired eye relief .. I prefer to use QD 1 peace ' lean back ' mounts on weaver rails, so I can swap out to glass if I wish

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Hello folks, new on here and noticed this post, so thought I'd offer my experience on this issue.

 

The Photon obviously has an issue with insufficient elevation adjustment, which gets worse the higher the mounts are.

 

I solved this by converting to a Picatinny rail and dedicated Photon mono mount made by Yukon. Even then it's up around the 20 clicks mark (max is 30), which isn't ideal, because the cross hairs stay where you adjust them ie for me it's low and right.

 

I use this mounting method so I can swap back and forward between the Photon and my Docter day scope for stalking.

 

Incidentally I use a NM800 with adjustable mount, which for foxing is well beyond what I need for shooting. I'm seeing eye shine way out beyond 600m. At sub 200m, it's a cracking picture.

 

Hope this inaugural post helps.

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Welcome lamp shy,I think the photon is tremendous bang for your buck,I also use an nm 800 and can see a lot further than I'm comfortable shooting.I have mine on a tikka with rail so can switch between day scope and nv.

Still smile watching foxes at a couple 9f hundred meters.

Atb

dave

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Welcome lamp shy,I think the photon is tremendous bang for your buck,I also use an nm 800 and can see a lot further than I'm comfortable shooting.I have mine on a tikka with rail so can switch between day scope and nv.

Still smile watching foxes at a couple 9f hundred meters.

Atb

dave

Same Dave, I've an M595 Tikka with a rail from Tier one, which keeps it nice and low. The range with the NM800 is unbelievable.

 

I've also aquired a Bushnell Equinox with a TR50 IR. It's good for scanning but no where near the Photon Nm800 combo.

 

Incidentally, nightmaster uk has a deal on the package just now.

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I went with the T67 mk2 , only because : the price& the pedigree, I've had T20's . t38, T50 and T67 ..

I was watching a fox at 800 yards the other night, called it right in to 150yrds ..

I always remove the little inner cap ( pin hole ) from the lens cap, as it improves the picture 10 fold .

 

I never got the official mount, I use a QD lean back 1 peice weaver mount, so it's easy on/ off & doesn't loose that much zero - 1 maybe 2 shots to check .. I prefer having my scopes at 3" bore to bore , so I get flatter shooting , but have never found shimming a problem , it's so easy to do & with practice you can almost get it bang on X- 0 Y - 0 ,

Add a green filter to the eye peice & away you go ..

 

The photon is a very under rated NV scope - it's a great tool

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I went with the T67 mk2 , only because : the price& the pedigree, I've had T20's . t38, T50 and T67 ..

I was watching a fox at 800 yards the other night, called it right in to 150yrds ..

I always remove the little inner cap ( pin hole ) from the lens cap, as it improves the picture 10 fold .

I never got the official mount, I use a QD lean back 1 peice weaver mount, so it's easy on/ off & doesn't loose that much zero - 1 maybe 2 shots to check .. I prefer having my scopes at 3" bore to bore , so I get flatter shooting , but have never found shimming a problem , it's so easy to do & with practice you can almost get it bang on X- 0 Y - 0 ,

Add a green filter to the eye peice & away you go ..

The photon is a very under rated NV scope - it's a great tool

Pic of my mounts etc. Sounds like you've a similar set up.

 

I tried Leopold QR rings & mounts, but the Photon was too far forward, hence the change to Picatinny and dedicated mount

 

Do you leave the front cap on at night (with the plug pushed out)? I've just took the cap off completely at night, but still messing with set ups.

 

Incidentally, I only got the NM due to the half price offer, the TR50 on the hand held is great too.

 

 

jto1uu.jpg

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Pic of my mounts etc. Sounds like you've a similar set up.

 

I tried Leopold QR rings & mounts, but the Photon was too far forward, hence the change to Picatinny and dedicated mount

 

Do you leave the front cap on at night (with the plug pushed out)? I've just took the cap off completely at night, but still messing with set ups.

 

Incidentally, I only got the NM due to the half price offer, the TR50 on the hand held is great too.

 

 

jto1uu.jpg

sweet set up its all new to me this nv shooting but at least im on target with it the next thing to sort is the ir the one that came with the package deal will not line up to the center of the nv unit as there is no adjustment on the lamp mount

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Pic of my mounts etc. Sounds like you've a similar set up.

I tried Leopold QR rings & mounts, but the Photon was too far forward, hence the change to Picatinny and dedicated mount

Do you leave the front cap on at night (with the plug pushed out)? I've just took the cap off completely at night, but still messing with set ups.

Incidentally, I only got the NM due to the half price offer, the TR50 on the hand held is great too.jto1uu.jpg

push the little cap out the middle.

look up ant supplies for an adjustable torch mount then get a small weaver rail off evil bay for a few quid.

Atb

dave

Ps skanny on here does a few ir torches!

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Hi,

Yeah, leave cap on & push middle out ..

My IR torch is mounted off a weaver rail on the tube, so it sits above the battery cover, on an adjustable mount ..

I found the balance better there, & easier to carry the rifle .

The only mod I have insist on having done is a green filter gel on the eye screen .. As it was giving me a headache & killing my eyes natural NV - you won't go back !!

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  • 3 weeks later...

push the little cap out the middle.

look up ant supplies for an adjustable torch mount then get a small weaver rail off evil bay for a few quid.

Atb

dave

Ps skanny on here does a few ir torches!

why do I need a weaver rail as well there one already fiited on the unit ??????

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why do I need a weaver rail as well there one already fiited on the unit ??????

Coz the weaver rail on the unit is crap

It's a plastic low profile single slot and most weaver base rings won't fit onto it.

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

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  • 2 weeks later...

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