.243happymeal Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 hi guys I just got a sako 75 hunter in .22 250 for a silly price it has a t8 mod fitted an externally has some light rust and a few dings in the stock, now for the bad news. It hasn`t fired many rounds but last time it was used was over 18 months ago and was left in the cabinet uncleaned since then, looking up the bore you can see a bit of muck but can`t tell if this is rust or fouling, cobwebs etc! Also the mod is on solid and I`m guessing may be rusted on. What would be the best way to start getting this cleaned up and see if it shoots? Anyone know of a decent riflesmith around tayside/fife that I could get to look at it. We `ve plenty of gun shops but most are shotgun orientated. Any help greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxshooter Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 hi guys I just got a sako 75 hunter in .22 250 for a silly price it has a t8 mod fitted an externally has some light rust and a few dings in the stock, now for the bad news. It hasn`t fired many rounds but last time it was used was over 18 months ago and was left in the cabinet uncleaned since then, looking up the bore you can see a bit of muck but can`t tell if this is rust or fouling, cobwebs etc! Also the mod is on solid and I`m guessing may be rusted on. What would be the best way to start getting this cleaned up and see if it shoots? Anyone know of a decent riflesmith around tayside/fife that I could get to look at it. We `ve plenty of gun shops but most are shotgun orientated. Any help greatly appreciated Are you near this guy? http://www.precisionrifles.com/About%20Us My geography north of Birmingham is appalling and doesnt get out much LOL Gettting the mod off so you can see how bad the end of the barrel has corroded would be a start. If you can undo the bushing at the back you can run some penetrating oil like freeway down the outside of the barrel and hopefully into the threads. A strap wrench as used on oil filters (not the chain type!!) might then give you the leverage to get it off. Then you can clean the barrel and see if its crud or corrosion inside Alternatively if the mod and or the end of the barrel is fubar just cut it off behind the mod bushing with a hacksaw. The crown will be shagged anyway so will need to be redone. You can get this done at the same time as getting the barrel shortened a bit and save a few quid. If the barrel is pitted to hell budget on £500 for a new custom barrel unless someone like Riflecraft has a good take off factory barrel you could get fitted for £200ish Mark edited to to appaling spelling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-NZ Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Kroil is a fantastic penetrating oil for loosening seized bits. I don't fancy your chances of salvaging it intact but good luck Chris-NZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 If the moddy is stuck tight then it wants a smith to get it off really. If all else fails cut it off and recrown the barrel. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 You lot are very ready with the hacksaw The right way is to put a cup full of engine oil in enough diesel fuel to just cover the mod in a plastic jug milk bottle whatever and put the mod and rifle in muzzle down of course and leave for about three days or so. By all means get an oil filter strap wrench from a car shop ( they have a wide nylon strap) and try wrapping it round ( having drained and wiped the mod) at the barrel end of the mod, you need to keep it over the end part which is stronger or else it will collapse the mod in. Get someone to hold the rifle and try undoing it ( use jerks rather than steady pressure ), if this doesnt work gently heat the mod where it screws onto the barrel ( screw out plastic bush of course)with a gas torch until it just starts to smoke, then put wrench on other end of course and jerking again it should come off. You can tell where the thread is as there is a seam round the mod at that part. It is more than likely that the barrel is ok when you have cleaned it so dont lose temper and get violent, it will cost you money, the mod is probably useable too, so violence could cost you 6-700 pounds. If you dont feel confident, just do the soaking then take it to the nearest rifle smith, Callum at PRS is one, but if you fill in your location ( nearest town or village, we may be able to suggest others. I have got mods off and chokes out of plenty of guns without making a mess of them this way. Dont be frightened to have another soak if the first time doesnt get it. Remember patience is more than a virtue, its a pocket saver too! Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldie Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 My father found an old webley junior pistol in a garage he was clearing out one day. It was in a tin of nails etc, that had been sat under a hole in the roof. It looked like Davy Jones,s scabby bits.It was seized solid. I laid it in a biccie tin, and tipped a full can of plusgas in with it, and put the lid on. Opened it one week later, grabbed the barrel, and it cocked. Lesson in there, somewhere, just as redfox says. Sako steel is a damn sight better than most. There is a good chance all the damage may be, is a pitted crown, or maybe just an inch of bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.243happymeal Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 wow thanks fellas, talk about a speedy response anyone know where I could pick up some kroil? had a quick google but not much luck in the uk, or would plusgas be as good? cheers Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Midway.co.uk ?? or ....... The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid! Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)." __________________ ___________ My local gearbox mechanic uses ATF and leaves in a warm place for a week ...but with Acetone definitely not a job for the kitchen. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Reloading solutions Direct in Oxford have Kroil in various size cans. But Diesel is just as or more effective and half a gallon is cheaper than cost plus postage. Acetone is used in plus gas and has been for donkeys years as it is very thin it does penetrate well and hopefully takes some oil with it. So ATF and Acetone = Plusgas in reality it does work some of the time but evaporates quickly even in this weather and enclosing the rifle or just barrel and action to prevent evaporation would be challenging, you certainly wouldnt want to expose the stock or any plastic to the acetone vapour it would dry out the wood and make it or any plastic brittle!! Go and buy some diesel and get on with it Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamfarmer Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 talking of things rusty a favourite used on the farm for stubbon things to free off is a mixture of diesel and petrol or some kersone as forund in your heating oil tank immearse upto the thread and leave over night then apply force with a sharp tap. on the farm that normally equals a few well aimed blows with a hammer of suitable size then apply your spanner another option may be to soak as above then plug the mod exit hole and then imerse in boiling water thus getting the mod and its internals hot and the thread staying cool may work. remember hammer before spanner excepect after crowbar, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.243happymeal Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 once again thank guys, the mod is now marrinading in redfox`s mixture and I`ll give it a few days and see what happens. Will keep you posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.243happymeal Posted January 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 do good things come to those who wait? well after a week of soaking in diesel then giving it the big un with a strap wrench the moddy came off (intact) the bore is cleaned and all in all it don`t look to scary. There is some slight pitting in the bore but nowhere nearly as much as I first thought. Now the mounts are on order the scope is here and we need to see if she can still shoot. Thanks for all the advice guys (in particular Redfox)................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 Nice one,you have a usable mod even if you have to change the barrel. I bet you find it shoots fine, just dont go mad with the cleaning after you have had a few rounds through it as the copper will lodge in the pits and not bother anything. Redfox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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