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Loading gentle .300 Win Mag ammo


njc110381

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Now I'm getting so keen on this .300WM I've been looking up loads for it. I'd like to shoot it locally for Roe so I can get used to the gun and use it a bit more than I otherwise would. What I'd like to do is load a fairly mild load for it. Looking at the Lee data with the right powder I can get it loaded down to gentle .308 levels which is what I'd like. Do these less suitable powder loads still hold good accuracy? I've read that the best load is one that fills the case and provides a good steady pressure near max. Does using a less suitable powder reduce accuracy or just velocity?

 

I'm going to sell my .375H&H probably, which is why I didn't want a .308. Just thought I'd add that before you all tell me to buy one of them instead!

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With the magnum cases you need to be careful not to reduce the charge to the point where the powder occupies too little of the case causing erratic ignition and burn. I'll look up some of my old .300 win mag loads later. I did tend to use 165 grain Sierra GameKings and Reloader 22 most of the time and found them to be a good all-rounder even for roe but i'll post more info when I find it. JC

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There is a lot of wisdom in the warning about loading too little powder in any case but it entirely depends on the powder. With H4895 (f'rinstance) you can load down to 60% of maximum with complete safety and maintain fine accuracy... provided your rifle was accurate to begin with!

 

Back in the early 1900's the US National Guard units were still shooting the 1898 Krag Jorgensen 30-40 caliber rifles in match competition while the regular Army shot the Model 1903 Springfield with the 30-06 service ammo. At 600 yards the National Guard units humiliated the Regulars using cast lead bullets and 13 grains of an early smokeless powder.

 

I am a student of cast bullet shooting and know that extremely accurate loads can be had with reduced loads using cast or otherwise. Being able to adjust your loads downward is one of the forgotten benefits of reloading. I like making small game loads for my big game rifles so that I can stay in practice year round.~Andrew

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Now I'm getting so keen on this .300WM I've been looking up loads for it. I'd like to shoot it locally for Roe so I can get used to the gun and use it a bit more than I otherwise would. What I'd like to do is load a fairly mild load for it. Looking at the Lee data with the right powder I can get it loaded down to gentle .308 levels which is what I'd like. Do these less suitable powder loads still hold good accuracy? I've read that the best load is one that fills the case and provides a good steady pressure near max. Does using a less suitable powder reduce accuracy or just velocity?

 

I'm going to sell my .375H&H probably, which is why I didn't want a .308. Just thought I'd add that before you all tell me to buy one of them instead!

 

 

I use 165 Sierra gamekings with standard 300 loadings and have had less meat damage on muntjac than my old 243 used to cause. Burn the powder

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  • 1 month later...
Why? Why not save it until it's needed?~Andrew

 

 

I think he means shoot full power loads and dont bother downsizing. Burn the powder rather than save a few pennies :lol:

 

Mark

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so I can get used to the gun ..... load a fairly mild load for it.....loaded down to gentle .308 levels

 

Reading between the lines on the language, and noting that this all seems to be about gun end (not target effect) I'd say:

Get a gun that doesn't hurt you :lol:

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I've got a gun that doesn't hurt me. It's not really the recoil that's bothering me, I just don't see the point in running something flat out if it's not needed. Better to have a big gun and load it lightly than struggle with pressure and push your luck with a gun that's too small! Sometimes I'll want all the power it can offer which is why I bought it, but most of the time it will be used in the uk and just taken out to keep the cobwebs out of the barrel!

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It's not really the recoil that's bothering me, I just don't see the point in running something flat out if it's not needed.

 

Uh-huh :lol:

 

If it makes you feel any better; I ditched my 300 a few years back -double the powder, unnecessary kick, harder to shoot well, animals no 'deader'. :lol:

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Uh-huh :huh:

 

If it makes you feel any better; I ditched my 300 a few years back -double the powder, unnecessary kick, harder to shoot well, animals no 'deader'. :)

 

 

Depends what you're going to shoot though doesn't it? I was quite happy with my .375H&H but the police wouldn't let me use it here.

 

For anything here a .308 or .270 is more than enough. Throw a Moose and a grumpy Bear into the pot and all of a sudden the .308 seems a little on the small side, as does the .300 in my opinion! It doesn't burn any more powder than my .375 did and I'm not going to be lobbing hundreds of rounds around with it so it doesn't matter. I really do just want to mild it down a bit as the power it offers is OTT for uk use.

 

Why do so many people stress about loading down? There are plenty of us trying with all our might to get an extra 100fps out of our .308s. A mild .300 will do that with relative ease and still have the potential to be stoked up when needed. The .300 is a very popular calibre in countries where the quarry bites back, and for good reason too. If we want to get picky my 6.5x55 can kill a Grizzly, but I'd rather give it some extra clout to make sure.

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I think what I'm going to do is just have a read through my reloading manual and pick the load with the lowest starting velocity. From what I can see the slowest start loads with 180grn bullets are similar in performance to the .308 so will be ideal.

 

All I need to do then is note the clicks on the scope between the zero for the slow load and the full power load so I can swap between the two easily.

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