Catch-22 Posted June 3 Report Share Posted June 3 Hi all. Im new to neck turning, and just about to start turning a bunch of cases. Ive got my PMA neck turning tool setup, following the instructions getting the cutter to just touch the mandrel to ‘zero’ the tool. However, I’ve noticed the cutter looks a little out of alignment, or there’s an angle. Seems when the cutter is just touching the mandrel, the top of the cutter is just touching, the bottom is slightly out. See photo. Is this normal? Is this ok? Should I fiddle with the cutter (came factory set)? I’ve tried playing with the mandrel, to see if it’s that, but seems I cannot change the cant of it when it sits in it’s ‘pocket’. Thoughts? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geezedtee Posted June 3 Report Share Posted June 3 As you look at the photo it is the upper part that does the cutting, it is not supposed to be parallel to the mandrel. However, you will have to adjust the cutter. There is a grub screw that you loosen. Insert a cartridge case onto mandrel. Move cutter to touch the case neck and tighten the grub screw. Depending on how much brass you want to remove you will need to fine adjust the cutter. Make you use enough lube on the inside of the case, more is better than too little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popsbengo Posted June 3 Report Share Posted June 3 It's meant to be like that, normal for a turning tool. May I ask why you feel the need for turned necks ? Do you use variable brass as I've always found Lapua to be nominal across a batch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch-22 Posted June 3 Author Report Share Posted June 3 36 minutes ago, Geezedtee said: As you look at the photo it is the upper part that does the cutting, it is not supposed to be parallel to the mandrel. However, you will have to adjust the cutter. There is a grub screw that you loosen. Insert a cartridge case onto mandrel. Move cutter to touch the case neck and tighten the grub screw. Depending on how much brass you want to remove you will need to fine adjust the cutter. Make you use enough lube on the inside of the case, more is better than too little. Many thanks. I wasn’t sure if the entire length of the cutter was meant to be parallel to the mandrel. It didn’t say anything about it in the instructions, so wasn’t sure if there was something out of alignment or not. I should also have said I’ve got the PMA tool with the micrometer dial on the side, which allows me to control depth of cut. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch-22 Posted June 3 Author Report Share Posted June 3 20 minutes ago, Popsbengo said: It's meant to be like that, normal for a turning tool. May I ask why you feel the need for turned necks ? Do you use variable brass as I've always found Lapua to be nominal across a batch Turning to make .284 Shehane brass for a .313nk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcampbellsmith Posted June 4 Report Share Posted June 4 This is how my Sinclair NT4000 looks. Regards JCS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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