shoulder bumping

[Berger]

what do you do to bump the shoulder back on your brass without full sizing,I use a redding body die but it full sizes the brass (not the neck thats controlled witha comp die)

[Alycidon]

You want to move the shoulder back the minimum amount you can.

 

I set the die up using the rifle like this.

 

Strip the bolt and remove the fireing pin and spring, providing the bolt will still lock down then just use the bolt without the pin but you may need to reassemble the bolt without the pin in it. You must remove the pin & spring otherwise the spring will give you a false feel.

 

Take a fired case that needs attention (heavy bolt lift or tight when camming down) and lube it. Put the die into your press, put the case onto the shellholder and raise it fully. Turn the die down so that it just touches the case, you will feel it contact.

 

Lower the ram, turn the die down 1/16 of a turn and raise ram fully. Lower ram, remove case and clean it up. Insert bolt into rifle and try to put the case slowly into the chamber. You are looking to JUST be able to feel the case shoulder bottom against the chamber as you cam the bolt down. The case at this stage will probably be still too tight, therefore remove, relube, turn the die down another 1/16 of a turn and repeat.

 

It may take 3 or 4 cycles before you get the die into the right place, once you think you have do a few more cases, you will find very slight variations in the amount of pressure required to cam the bolt down. Adjust the die untill you are getting VERY slight contact with most of them. One finger pressure on the bolt is best.

 

Then lock the die with the locking ring, use the Allan key on the lock ring to fix it into place then remove and clean it, reassemble the bolt and away you go. My PPC requires the shoulders pushing back about every 3rd or 4th load. I just do a whole batch when I feel a few getting heavy but as I usually load about a third of my cases at a time I am maybe a bit haphazard about it.

 

A

[Oly]

A,

 

Cracking response there mate. Reads really clear and covers all the bases.

 

Thanks from all those who find this response as useful as I have,

Oly

[Redfox]

The easiest way and most accurate, is to measure a couple of fired cases, you can buy the adapter and correct bush for the calibre/cartridge you are using, from Reloading Solutions direct or Midway uk, they were Stoney Point now called Lock N Load as they were bought out by Hornady.

The adapter allows you to clamp it on a digital vernier caliper and measure the fired cases, the normal set back you aim for is 2-3 thousandths of an inch. Once you know the length of the fired cases, full length size a fired case measure it and adjust your die up or down to get neare to the set back you want, do it again and re-adjust the die accordingly you can usually get it with 4-5 cases. Just use up the cases that you sized on practice loads they will then come right next resizing and it shouldnt affect accuracy anyway, just case life mainly.

Redfox

The Hornady headspace kit is pt no HK66 for the most popular calibres.

Midway UK stock number 479704, but usually cheaper at RS

Reloading Solutions Limited

6, Cherwell Business Centre,

Rowles Way,

Kidlington. OX5 1LA.

 

Telephone: +44-(0)1865 378200

[Berger]

You want to move the shoulder back the minimum amount you can.

 

I set the die up using the rifle like this.

 

Strip the bolt and remove the fireing pin and spring, providing the bolt will still lock down then just use the bolt without the pin but you may need to reassemble the bolt without the pin in it. You must remove the pin & spring otherwise the spring will give you a false feel.

 

Take a fired case that needs attention (heavy bolt lift or tight when camming down) and lube it. Put the die into your press, put the case onto the shellholder and raise it fully. Turn the die down so that it just touches the case, you will feel it contact.

 

Lower the ram, turn the die down 1/16 of a turn and raise ram fully. Lower ram, remove case and clean it up. Insert bolt into rifle and try to put the case slowly into the chamber. You are looking to JUST be able to feel the case shoulder bottom against the chamber as you cam the bolt down. The case at this stage will probably be still too tight, therefore remove, relube, turn the die down another 1/16 of a turn and repeat.

 

It may take 3 or 4 cycles before you get the die into the right place, once you think you have do a few more cases, you will find very slight variations in the amount of pressure required to cam the bolt down. Adjust the die untill you are getting VERY slight contact with most of them. One finger pressure on the bolt is best.

 

Then lock the die with the locking ring, use the Allan key on the lock ring to fix it into place then remove and clean it, reassemble the bolt and away you go. My PPC requires the shoulders pushing back about every 3rd or 4th load. I just do a whole batch when I feel a few getting heavy but as I usually load about a third of my cases at a time I am maybe a bit haphazard about it.

 

A

 

a bit of a long winded operation,personally I use the stoney point head space gauges to measure the cases and adjust my boday die to suit you only need 1 fired case

the question was to bump the shoulder back without full sizing the rest of the case,but this dosent seem possable

[Redfox]

You can do it to some extent with a standard neck sizing die, but it is defeating the object really, shoulder bumpiing is as you say for fl sizing and neck sizing doesnt really do anything to the rest of the case. For general shooting/varminting the fl size with minimum push back on the shoulder will give excellent accuracy and plenty of life out of the cases.

I can easily get 10-20 reloads out of my cases but I find that flash hole enlargement etc after 7-10 reloads begins to show in the groups so that is where I change cases and with the hotter loads primer pockets start to get loose as well, you pays your money and takes your choices.

Redfox