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new brass prep process?


Scotch_egg

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Folks I have got my first batch of new brass that I will be loading. What case prep do you recommend? I Always used once fired brass, so go through the full size die. Is this needed with new brass?

 

Keep it simple cos I am still new to this game. This is for my 7-08 deer rifle and me .243 for some varmint hunting. No paper punching greatness..........

 

Whilst I am asking should I get into neck turning?

 

cheers

 

Scotch

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What make of rifle are you intending to use them in ?

 

What make is the brass itself?

 

As you are new to reloading it is probable that you will be using a factory rifle rather than a custom.

 

The new brass should fit a factory rifle's chamber just fine as it is but just make sure it does. Even so put it through your die to just true the necks up and basically you are good to prime and load. Just check that the open ends of the necks have a chamfer on the inside AND outside, if not they will need one, there is a little hand operated tool from RCBS/redding that will do them for you easily. Learn on one caliber first and get that fully put to bed before doing the other one.

 

If you want to get marginally better performance from your brass then truing primer pockets and flash holes, turning the necks lightly etc will make your brass more consisitant and therefore an aid to accuracy. However learn the basic's first then you can expand into this at a later stage if you wish. Extra equipment is needed for these steps, maybe £100/£150 should about do it and most of that is in a neck turner.

 

If you are shooting a custom then the full brass prep is really needed IMHO to get the best out of it.

A

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Well the 7-08 has just has a walther barrel on her, thanks to Col48 and Steve Kershaw. I was loading for this in factory form. Had good results but it was reloads from factory ammo. I chamfer inside and out and did full case prep using everything in my lee anniversary kit including chamfer inside and out. I will be using remington brass. Will I need to lube, or am I just trying to cut corners!!!

 

cheers

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if your after accuracy you can not cut corners ..fact ..do each round step by step if you want true accuracy..if you then miss it was down to you not the round if done right ..i clean my brass every time ,the more you clean, quicker it is to clean them ..read every page on the net about reloading, learn every thing you can about reloading then put all you have gained and put it in to your reloading ..the more you tweek your rounds the better the accuracy ..guys on here that are shooting bug holes groups dont just throw there rounds together and they dont cut corners ..it takes time to build a good round, its the prep work that takes all the time not the throwing of the powderd or the seating of the bullet ..start as you mean to go on ;)

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if your after accuracy you can not cut corners ..fact ..do each round step by step if you want true accuracy..if you then miss it was down to you not the round if done right ..i clean my brass every time ,the more you clean, quicker it is to clean them ..read every page on the net about reloading, learn every thing you can about reloading then put all you have gained and put it in to your reloading ..the more you tweek your rounds the better the accuracy ..guys on here that are shooting bug holes groups dont just throw there rounds together and they dont cut corners ..it takes time to build a good round, its the prep work that takes all the time not the throwing of the powderd or the seating of the bullet ..start as you mean to go on ;)

 

 

That is spot on and wise advice.

 

You have a custom barrel so full brass prep would be benificial, you MUST lube the cases before resize, you only need a tiny amount and keep it clear of the case shoulders. I put a bit in my hands then roll maybe 5 or 6 cases together between my hands. I use a tumbler every time and wipe it off before I tumble them but I am not sure how your U/S cleaner works, still think it's a good idea to wipe it off anyway before cleaning.

 

If you fail to lube the cases one will get stuck in the resize die and require a special tool to remove it, you do not need to lube the cases when loading the bullets and using the seater die.

 

If you are intending to neck turn check with the builder the rifles neck size as it might just have a tighter neck than normal. This may however be stamped on the outside of the barrel. My 6mm for example has .270NK marked on it. I have always been advised to allow between .001 and .002 of neck clearance on a loaded round.

 

Once you have fire formed the cases then check the lengths with your vernier and trim if required not forgetting to rechamfer the ends afterwards.

 

A

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