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snow white

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Hi I have asked questions before on a another forum got not satisfactory answer when starting a new load how do you know how far to put the bullet in to the case. I have a stone point horndy setting tool to the lands it is 1.931.5 on ten average can somebody tell me how far please I am using n133 powder.thanks

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Hi I have asked questions before on a another forum got not satisfactory answer when starting a new load how do you know how far to put the bullet in to the case. I have a stone point horndy setting tool to the lands it is 1.931.5 on ten average can somebody tell me how far please I am using n133 powder.thanks

Follow the standard procedure-here is Gravatt and Sinclair "Precision Reloading and Shooting Handbook" (that's Sinclair International -very accuracy oriented).

 

OK Using the Stoney Point?Hornady OAL guage,and the dummy cartridge with bullet you wish to load,feed the bullet into chamber as instructions and lock the tool when bullet is felt to just touch the rifling.Repeat,and get a good few readings-if they are close,set the tool at the average (for that one same bullet-bullets vary a little,because of manufacturing especially the point-ogive-see below is generally much more consistent).

You can now measure the bullet in the tool from cartridge base to bullet tip with calliers/micrometer. It's essential to write this down carefully and that is your COAL,for that bullet,which is your basic reference datum.It's highly recommended that you load that bullet into an empty,no primer,no powder,case and mark it with bullet,weight,COAL for reference. This dummy round can now serve as a benchmark for adjusting your seating die,when adjusting the seating depth/bullet jump/how far off the lands/rifling. This dummy is set to just touch the rifling (zero jump).

It is bettter to then use a bullet comparator to measure Base To Ogive-the ogive being the point on the curved bullet wall where rifling contact is made.This is more consistent between bullets from the same box-which can,and do,vary as much as .015 in overall length,as a consequence of manufacturing method-different dies eg etc.

If you want to seat your bullets at a different depth,then set your seater carefully with your dummy round-that will be 'touching lands',then remove dummy and seat your loaded round to that setting,or adjust the setting to reduce the COAL,slightly-a micrometer stem helps a lot,as you can readily go down (or up) one graduation on the scale at a time.

How many/much you move the bullet into the case (or out into the lands-careful,pressure) is trial and error for your rifle/load.There are guidlines,though- G&S suggest .010 to .020 off the rifling for 22 calibre,6mm .01 off,30 just touching....but it varies,but do not ram the bullet into the rifling-pressure....usually just touching to somewhere approx .02 off as seating depth will work...seating depth is often a constant for a particular rifle,which helps once you get it's prefered seating depth.

Increase seating depth a few thou,for maybe 5 cartridge,check with micrometer,record and shoot,the another few thou out and repeat until you get the best depth.

 

REMEMBER-all these measurements are taken by you with your mass produced seating depth tools- they are good comparators-ie you can use to copare measurements you make-but thay are not readily comparable to someone else's measurements-they will have a different tool,even if a SP/H with slightly different machining,and a different personal touch/feel-all this is easily several thousands difference...and rifles are individuals- others measures might give a rough guide,but that's all.

Write it all down,and keep your dummy datum cartridge,it's your start point every time.

 

(check measurement: your 1.931.5 is a trifle odd,can't have two decimal points,and three figures after the point is accuracy enough-probably beyond that of the overall measuring system....just a detail,but it helps to be consistent.)

 

I hope this is clear,and helpful. Once you have your dummy "rifling toucher',it really is trial and error,though consider what others say,especially for similar rifles,AND of course that bullet (but it will vary,really and for above individual measurement variation reasons.Half a dozen seating depths should get you pretty close for most rifles. Good luck.

 

gbal

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If you have a commercial chamber you could simplify things by using the data manufacturer's seating depth (oal) as a starting point and working your way outward in small increments, if necessary, til you get to magazine length. If no seating depth is recommended, you can seat the parallel sides of the bullet to the base of the neck, maximizing neck tension and alignment provided by those expensive reloading dies.~Andrew

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Thank you very much. gbal for your help but what about the powder on the first rounds how do you know much. Been reading Richard Lee loading book but he uses American powder. Have got vith powder chart think I will have to work up from there. Thanks again.

 

Yes,assuming you are going to use Vihtavuori-which is a very good powder,and available- in a burn rate suitable for your cartridge,then V give recommended start (and MAX) powder loads for different bullet weights....in a modern good condition rifle,try something like 1.5 g down from max,and load up 3 cartridges in perhaps ,3g increments.....usually a good node will be found without pushing the max,and that is a pretty good load- top competition Fclass etc might want the absolute max possible,but not most of us-go for a decent speed and top accuracy; the last 100fps really makes very little difference to 'field/club' shooting,and wears barrels more. Once you have a good load,of course,it's possible to cautiously try increasing,if youmust.Get the 'banker' load sorted though,maybe with COAL length-especially if you want to use magazine feed-cartridge has to fit,and when powder load is decided,try varying the seating depth.Don't vary both at the same time,as you won't be able to elate any changes to either factor...Sort good powder load,then fine tune that load with seating depth.Not every factory rifle will be capable of sub .5 5 shot accuracy consistently,though you can try a few bullets.Richard Lee's book is fine,though understandably a bit geared to Lee dies etc,which are not 'typical',though many think 'good value.'There is quite a bit of basic info on the net too,and more specialised reloading books,for those for whom reloading becomes a serious hobby/obsession!Good tools cost £ of course.Enjoy,and just work systematically.

 

g

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