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Kit used to shoot tight groups ???


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I second gbals suggestion of shooting bags. I have used a dog gone good bag for over 10 years now, both at the range and for hunting. I have used both the medium and large bench bag but prefer the medium. They grip the rifle well and can also reduce some of the felt recoil on heavy kickers. No need for a rear bag with the medium and large bags.

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Its what you shoot best way and are used to,a high mag scope helps to, bench is best way a rest but if you are not used with this gear a bipod and rest are good

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There is one fundamental factor of the shooter's input that must be considered.

 

There should be no muscle tension in the system for 'consistent accuracy'

 

Muscles, especially in the the pectoral, shoulder, arm and hand region should be relaxed and shot process should be fluent without the need to 'hold' position.

 

This simple advice will help 80% of shooters with 'shooter related' accuracy issues.

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There is one fundamental factor of the shooter's input that must be considered.

 

There should be no muscle tension in the system for 'consistent accuracy'

 

Muscles, especially in the the pectoral, shoulder, arm and hand region should be relaxed and shot process should be fluent without the need to 'hold' position.

 

This simple advice will help 80% of shooters with 'shooter related' accuracy issues.

Perhaps the near limiting example is the Bench Rest Free Recoil technique,which pretty well eliminates the shooter's body movements/variations-but not,of course,his/her eye and brain,and a 2oz trigger minimises finger issues.Not all BR shooters adopt it in full,especially with more potent cartridges,though most have very light 'holds' by normal standards.

It supports (no pun intended) Dennis's points about the negative effects of (variable) muscle tensions,but of course,is only fully applicable with all the B R type supports-bench,front rest,bags,limited recoil, and so on...or ultimately,a railgun. That does not mean the principles cannot be applied to 'hold onto rifle' shooting. If there is strain/pain,something isn't quite right.

 

gbal

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Thanks to all who have commented i will try and put some of the advice into practice

because i must admit i do hold the rifle quite firmly on its natural point of aim on target

and maybe load the atlas bipod to much

room for improvement me thinks :D

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Great advice from above.

Its one thing making a tiny group and another to put a shot or more shots into the middle of a target. My interest now lies with Sporting Rifles and Varmint rifles in the field. Two things I do are: one zero on a fine no wind day; and second do it when not in a rush. Probably get that chance twice a year. I prefer bags over bipod but as the bipod is going to be used then I check that too. I also check my drops at all nominal ranges, there and back, so I'm sure of my drop; and then write it down. The rifle is then fully zeroed, I know what to expect the best it can do and I have a record of it.

Lots to basic marksmanship but basically for small groups and long range work it all requires time to settle down, get that heart rate down, and properly concentrate on your marksmanship drills'; anything less is snap shooting.

 

From then on the rest of the time its either me, me not settling down or not concentrating on the job at hand, or not reading the conditions. Its very rare to be anything to do with the rifle. I think my Annie 1710 .22LR hasn't needed to be adjusted for 12 years! Zero on a good day and then practice a lot when its not perfect; do it right and then the rifle will be shooting straight and the rest is what you make of it on the day. All a confidence thing, and regular practice makes a real difference because good and excellent are only mm's apart..

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all the above are good answers but to me practice and know your rifle and bullet inside out is the answer,ime a fox shooter but have an obsession with accuracy as well, i just use a bipod and lie on grass,i to would like a do at benchrest one day,but i bet it would take over my life as well,lol,

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