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Tikka T3 trigger adjustment


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I'm after some important advice on this as I don't want to get it wrong, knowledgable people only please!

 

I've just read the manual of my T3 and found the trigger adjustment screw. The pull on it feels far too heavy for me and I don't like it, the manual says it's 3lbs. I've given the allen screw one full turn lighter, but don't have a pull gauge to tell me what it's running at now. It feels nice (how I used to set my air rifles) but not overly light (it feels what I would regard as safe with room for error). I've put the gun back together, cocked the action (empty gun obviously) and dropped the butt on the kitchen floor from about a foot off the ground. I've done this several times with no sign of sear slipping so to me this means the gun is still safely within the accepted margins. Reading through this, is there anything you can see that I should have checked but haven't?

 

Cheers guys

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I'm after some important advice on this as I don't want to get it wrong, knowledgable people only please!

 

I've just read the manual of my T3 and found the trigger adjustment screw. The pull on it feels far too heavy for me and I don't like it, the manual says it's 3lbs. I've given the allen screw one full turn lighter, but don't have a pull gauge to tell me what it's running at now. It feels nice (how I used to set my air rifles) but not overly light (it feels what I would regard as safe with room for error). I've put the gun back together, cocked the action (empty gun obviously) and dropped the butt on the kitchen floor from about a foot off the ground. I've done this several times with no sign of sear slipping so to me this means the gun is still safely within the accepted margins. Reading through this, is there anything you can see that I should have checked but haven't?

 

Cheers guys

 

hi -

 

if you have a rubber mallet. then take it back out the stock and cock the action and give the tang (rear of the action) a good wallop with the rubber mallet.

all so one thing i do to make sure you are still safe is, when i push the bolt forward, and down i really slam it down hard a few times and if this still does not trip it,then it should stand up in the Field.

one thing though try it again when it is very cold as metal shrinks a bit when its cold,just to be on the safe side.

 

you could all so unscrew the Allen key right out until it does not hold the sear engagement,and then you will have a good idea how much further you could go,

the few i have played with have gone down to about 1lb with no problems

 

ATB

Colin :angry:

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A budget trigger pull tester can be made from a `Little Samson` 0-7 pound scale or similar from your local fishing tackle shop, mine has 2 ounce increments and has served me well for many years.

Whilst not being a precision instrument it is much safer than just guessing.

 

HWH.

 

TriggertesterCG270group003.jpg

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Far more important, without being nasty if you have to ask you should not be messing with it!

The consequences of getting it wrong with a cetrefire rifle do not bear thinking of and if it does go wrong you would be charged with manslaughter. Far better to get the local gunsmith to set if or you and guarantee the work. For in the field you should not be contemplating less than 2 3/4 -3 lb anyway.

Play safe and have no regrets.

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That's ok, I can see your point. I'm very confident I've got it sorted ok, I've been home gunsmithing air guns since I was very young and have never had a bad trigger adjustment go un-noticed. As you say though, I'm talking about a 2300ft lbs 6.5x55, not a 6ft-lbs kids air rifle. I wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. I'm 100% confident it's safe but thought double checking would be a good idea. I'll bash it about some more when I get home, but as I say I've been pretty rough with it already and I'm sure it's well within the safe pull weight. I'll do the scale thing too, I have one of those little fishing scales somewhere.

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No problem mate, if any doubt it is literally a few quid or free to get it checked.

One check is to slam the bolt from open to closed, (palm of your hand) several times to check for slam fires.

There are several gunsmiths on here who can help you further.

Redfox

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Cannot over stress the importance of safety here...

 

Another method of checking is mount the barrel horizontaly in a soft jawed vice and having first checked the weapon is unloaded, cock bolt and release safety, then induce some oscilations into the barrel (tap the butt with a soft slap) if the trigger fires, you know you have a problem.

 

Do this with safety on and off.

 

Very well respected smith told me this and it does work (especially on Remingtons)

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i thought i had said the slam fire and the hitting the butt in my post ;) .

 

o well i wont wast my time next time

 

ATB

Colin ;)

 

On any of my topics you say whatever you know bud. As others have said, I'm more than happy to read it twice. It's actually quite good when you get several people saying the same thing. I'm also open to posts that may sound a little harsh, better safe than sorry and if that's what it takes to get the point across then it's fine with me!

 

No time wasted here, I appreciate your reply (and everyone elses).

 

Cheers, Neil

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I put a great deal of time into reading about the available calibres! I hate to think how many evenings I spent wading through internet articles on various guns and ammunition before I settled on the 6.5x55. I picked it because of its ability to handle such a vast range of bullet weights from 80-160 grains, its killing potential on larger game for its size and the guns available in the calibre. Everyone who shoots one really seems to rate it for its knockdown power and accuracy, as well as being a very gentle round (doesn't feel that gentle to me!). I also wanted a Fox gun, and 6.5x55 is the biggest I was likely to get on first application for that purpose. .260 rem did come up as better according to some, but at the time I wasn't planning on reloading and ammo was scarce for it. I'm happy with it so far, it took me 10 months to get my certificate so I'm not changing it any time soon ;)

 

Back to the original subject, I've made a pull gauge with my fishing scale. It's reading 3lb 2oz now, so I hate to think what it was before! I was certain it wasn't too light, but it doesn't hurt to double check ;)

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As they are supplied to USA as well it will have been up around 6-7lbs, where it is is ok, wehave talked about it on here before and the consesnus was technique is the biggest thing, if you practise breathing and trigger pull of the actual weight for hunting/ varminting is less important than how you squeeze the trigger. if you are going for fox and deer use a bullet in the 129gr - 140gr, many lads on here swear by the Lapua Scenar 129gr and it will certianly stop any fox or deer. I use the 140 gr as I aonly use it for deer, although if charlie comes wandering past at anything up to 200yds he will be staying with me ;) as I am in woodland mostly it is unlikely I would have to shoot past that anyway.

Old sayingp practise makes perfect is spot on. There may well be others on here near you could offer a bit of help.

redfox

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I have a mentor who is helping me, he's pretty good. He's taken me out on his permission with the rimmy for experience, helped me get started with reloading and taken me to Devon for a week of stalking. He only shoots Deer with his 6.5, so he uses 160grn round nose soft points in his gun. I was amazed that when he wacked a Hummel in Devon a couple of months ago it still ran 250 yards! The shot was close and he slightly over did the hold over on it (about an inch) but it still wrecked the heart and lungs. I was amazed anything could run like that, especially when most of it's vitals slopped out like soup when we cut it open! I've been told a Hummel takes some stopping, and tracking it was great experience for me. He said it's the only one he's ever shot that's made it more than 100 yards, which did steady my confidence a bit.

 

I'm going to use 129grn Hornady SST for a start, Mikes 160s seem over the top for Fox. They seem a good mid range bullet with a good BC, and I like the idea of the ballistic tip rather than a soft nose which could get damaged and hinder accuracy. How does that bullet sound for Fox and Deer? About right? My mentor has never used them.

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Sounds alright, dont worry too much about tip damage, we played with that some years ago and deliberately knocked the tip over slightly etc and at 150 yds there was no noticeable difference in the point of impact, again long range 5-600 yds I bet it would have an effect, but for hunting, its mostly where you point it that matters :lol:

Redfox

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