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bradders

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Posts posted by bradders

  1. 3 hours ago, Re-Pete said:

    So are you saying this "rumour" implies that British proof marks don't necessarily mean that the gun has been proofed, ie tested, in the UK to the appropriate spec, and that the proof house just bang the marks on because it's a European manufactured gun and "they will have already done it" ?

    I find that VERY hard to believe............

    Pete

    It is,

    Go to the proof House and see for yourself. In many ways they are a bit over-stringent and that may not be such a terrible thing for the customer, but can be a pain for people like me

    Headspace can be the main issue, but you know that when it’s passed, it’s passed

  2. 22 minutes ago, Miseryguts said:

    OK starting to see the light

    Rifle and bolt have both got the relevant proof marks

    As per advice above, large dollop of gun grease (well  I think it is, I have had it 20 years and the writing has rubbed off) on the lugs, extractor pins and the extractor claw and it is stating to load a lot easier - but nothing like my TX3.

    I think that the problem is a) very strong extractor springs, b) a slightly off extractor claw, and c) you have to have exactly the right technique

    The extractor pins are still scratching the case as the bolt rotates into the closed position.

    Any one recommend a good grease?

    M ( a little happier, but still not satisfied in still wet S Wales)

    They are ejector, not extractor pins, sorry to be pedantic but it will help to explain the situation a bit better

  3. I use the Lanolin/Isopropanol mix, it’s the same as Dillon case lube, as well as some others are and hard to beat, just spray into a cardboard box and shake around then leave to evaporate for 10 mins

    Its cheap, makes loads and lasts ages

    all available from Amazon

     

  4. 20 hours ago, Catch-22 said:

    “...The cardboard ‘outer’ marked with the useful factory product code had been ditched by the retailer unfortunately but I’m pretty sure this is the Murom KVB-223M, a thick cup, tough ‘magnum’ model that is slightly ‘hotter’ than the older KVB-5,56M ‘magnum

    That wouldn't be because they’re still on the embargo/banned/ prohibited list for Russian arms and ammunition by any chance, would it?

  5. 16 minutes ago, Richard_w said:

    Thanks for the further advice Mark.

    What technique do you use to polish the chambers?

    In hindsight, .223 would gave been a better choice for the first product, I agree.

    .308 is popular for pest control in Australia, particularly feral pigs.  This is one of our main markets.  

    Looking at some other areas to reduce friction in the action- the bolt face for example.  May try a teflon coating here as well.  

    Nothing scientific, a split rod with emery cloth run at high speed wetted with a suitable lube to stop it clogging, either on the lathe or with a high speed cordless in a video the bench

    Don't go getting carried away Teflon etc, it’s not necessary, just get a working rifle first

    Find the lightest/most volumous brass you can to keep pressures down and don’t get too greedy on pressure

  6. 5 hours ago, Richard_w said:

    Thanks very much for that information Mark, I was hoping you would get in touch.  Nothing like real world experience and knowledge.

    I am in Tasmania, most of the work is happening in Victoria though.

    What are your thoughts around chamber fluting?

    I believe the pump-action Troy PAR AR type rifles are fluted. 

    And the POF ReVolt looks to have the their new fluted chamber neck design. 

    Have you tried the ReVolt?  Does the fluted chamber neck seem to have any advantage?
     

    Yes, there is not much we can do with the existing, nitrided, barrels, we will have to change the specification. 

    Do you hand-polish your chambers after the barrels are supplied, or will some barrel manufacturers do that if you specify it?

     

    I turn and chamber all my own barrels and polish the chambers after reaming to #320-#400 and ensure there are no marks in there

    I have no experience with chamber fluting, but a good chamber shouldn't be necessary. That said though, it's pretty hot where you are, esp Victoria, so that may be a factor

    One thing though, why .308 and not just .223? The smaller cartridge has many benefits over .3908 in a SP and is more than capable

  7. You need to get the chamber as polished/smoothed out as you can and also run it at near max or max headspace, and you also need to get away from the nitriding , at least until you have something reliable, but with regards to the nitriding that barrel will now be u/s as you won’t be able to do anything with it.

    A reamer won’t touch it now sadly. All nice ideas but a rethink is needed

    What State are you in out of curiosity?

  8. I don't mean to harp on, but this is getting ridiculous

    It reminds me of the days of PR (Practical Rifle) where you mailed in your entry form along with 2SAE's, one for CoF and one for results.

     

    So you'd shoot the match go home with no idea how you'd done, and then 3 weeks later the SAE would arrive to inform you you'd finished 18th or whatever 🧐

    In this day of instant access to stuff via social media.."could do better" would be a good phrase to adopt!

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