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pat

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Everything posted by pat

  1. Greg, Duly noted. If you or Ewen have any preferences for type of switch etc then please let me know :) Also, not sure if it would be helpful, but it looks like it may be possible to remote control both of the buttons, so you could turn 3dis and gating on and off without touching the unit [doubt you'de want to change the units remotely, but you could]. Avian, You're welcome - and looks like you have your setup sorted. Am I right in thinking that you can trigger a reading from within FFS without needing to touch the unit ? Or do you still need to trigger it manually (albeit quite stable) ? Cheers, Pat.
  2. Morning All! Ewen, you have PM Avian - congrats on the PLFR25C! In answer to your question, the remote trigger will allow the unit to be made to make a measurement without needing to touch it. Certainly it is the case with the PLRF10/15 that it is difficult, if not impossible, to trigger a reading without having the unit move a little due to the pressure that needs to be applied to the button. This can be mitigated to an extent by having it tripod mounted, but it will still move a little. The idea behind the remote trigger is that you can force a measurement to be taken, without needing to apply any force to any part of the rangefinder, so it will remain solidly on target. The ergonomics of the PLRF25C might be better in this regard and it may not move as much. I did not specifically list the PLRF25C in the list of compatible units for two reasons : 1) The PLRF25C is equipped with a Bluetooth interface which can be paired to a mobile device, which has the ability to remotely trigger a measurement by means of an App, hence it already has a remote trigger capability "for free" anyway so a remote trigger cable is likely somewhere between much-less-useful and useless. 2) I am not sure if the PLRF25C shares the same connector. The SEV78 / 901854 is listed as a cable for the PLRF25C to connect to a PC, it has a remote trigger and it has a connector that looks similar, but I am not sure that it is definitely the same. Rather than offer something that might not end up working / being right I felt it better to just not list the PLRF25C as a unit the cable will work with (but it MIGHT), whereas I am confident in the PLRF10/10C/15/15C and Vector IV being compatible. The only real benefit I can think of regarding the cable in the context of the PLRF25C is that it is a "dumb" / "basic" unit that doesn't rely on batteries or software to work - if you have it in your kit bag, "it will work" Cheers, Pat.
  3. Gents, Just a heads up. The P4F-MPOA reticle is relatively new - that's not to say that the scope doesn't have it, just that S&B did offer the P4F FFP with 1/8MOA turrets, so it is not safe to assume that the ret is deffo P4F-MOA just because it has 1/8MOA turrets [but it could, just saying to double check ] The P4F (non-MOA) ret is VERY fine - TOO fine for use as a long range varminting scope as you lose sight of the ret as the light fades (such a shame there isn't a 12-50x56-PMII/LP!). The ret drawing here https://www.schmidtundbender.de/downloads/category/225-p4f.html?download=980:p4f-12-50x56-pm-ii-1be shows the cross subtension as 0.02mrad (but then curiously says it covers 0.18cm @ 100m, so that's surely 0.018mrad). That places it at 1.8cm coverage at 1000m, 1.65cm (0.65") coverage at 1000yds. This would make a fine (pardon the pun!) target ret, and when paired with the 1/4cm clicks it's a real precision instrument when the light is good (though WHY they don't offer that with a DT windage turret baffles me, +/- 1.6mrad is not that much wind!). I digress. The P4F-MOA ret is not quite so fine. The ret drawing here https://www.schmidtundbender.de/downloads/category/906-p4f-moa.html?download=981:p4f-moa-12-50x56-pm-ii shows the cross as 0.03mrad but then also 0.1MOA (0.029mrad) and 0.29cm@100m / 0.1"@100yds. This reticle will thus cover 1" at 1000yds. The extra fatness of the central cross, in addition to the solid outer stadia make it much more useful for long range varminting as the light fades. Legend has it that F Class V-bulls are 0.5MOA. So the P4F-MOA ret will fit five times over into the V-Bull, and the P4F will fit 8 times over. I don't know if you need to be any finer than that for F Class. Usefully, both rets extend past the V-Bull (not like a floating dot that can get lost in there) so you will see the intersection of the cross and the perimeter of the V Bull. As an aside, my gut feeling for circular stuff is a dioptric setup - a ret with a central circle (not a filled dot) which is just ever so slightly bigger than the black part of the V Bull, permitting a tiny bit of the white to show. The eye is good at picking up circular (annular) irregularity / axial misalignment (also along the vernier principle). Such a ret would likely be a one-trick-pony though - great for F Class, perhaps slightly less adept at other disciplines. In any event, assuming your ability to hold it steady enough, I would imagine you could align to microradian precision with such a ret (though atmospheric distortion will be your nemesis!). Cheers, Pat.
  4. Morning All! One thing I found curious is the lack of a dedicated remote trigger for these units. There is a version that connects to a computer via RS232. There is another that connects to a computer via USB but doesn't have a trigger. IIRC there is one that connects to a GPS. But nothing that is JUST a remote trigger! To this end I did a little bit of investigation and can report that it is easy (and cheap!) enough to make such a remote trigger Question is - how many PLRF or Vector IV owners would like a remote trigger but never bothered because of the price and/or lack of a "simple" remote trigger ? For those of you that have the non-"C" version, which doesn't have the aperture in the rubber on the side for the port, fear not because the port is still there and it still works! This should cover PLRF10, PLRF10C, PLRF15, PLRF15C, Vector IV and any other model that has the same port. It might even be sensible to make the such cables as a two-part item - one part to plug into the Vectronix, and a second part which has a hand-operated switch, or one that has a foot-operated switch, or indeed perhaps an electronic trigger in a scope-demo-stock [seemed like a novel alternative to a tripod, which will be as stable as your shooting itself - if you can't range it, you can't shoot it, LOL]. Cheers, Pat.
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