markymark

Yep. Sold sorry 

Let me know if your interested in selling the avail 30 separately. Otherwise good luck with the sale 👍

Yeah that’s my point. Lots of people had issues while torquing up the rings to 20-25in/lbs as per ring manufacturers instructions .
Vortex used to have a slip in the box telling you the value needed. If it’s secondhand it might not be included. The newer vortex scopes are listing the recommended value in their manual now to stop this issue. Plenty of users have fixed there reticle or tracking issues based on just dialing back down to circa 17in/lbs. 

I would check this before anything else. If you do have a problem, thankfully it will be sorted by their excellent warranty. 

“Specific torque setting” is that as per ring manufacture or vortex scope recommendations? 

Some of the newer vortex come with quite low suggested torque values approx 17-18 in/lbs
 

What do you class as a cold bore shot?

Cold bore, cold shooter and clean bore?

Cold bore, fouled bore, cold shooter?

Cold bore, fouled bore, warm shooter?

I’ve found very little difference in my cold bore shots, but a significant difference with a clean bore. 
 

Most people confuse the two, but both often go hand in hand. Ie the shooter will clean their rifle and put in back in the cabinet. So next time they use it, it will have both clean and cold bore. I believe the first clean bore shot will be off due to the cleaning residue, oil being left in the bore. Causing a POI change. Also cleaning the barrel will remove copper fouling which help to fill the imperfections in the lands and grooves. As the bore gets dirty shots will fall to a more consistent to POI. Obviously when fouling reaches a certain level accuracy will drop back off again. 

Check out Praesidia & Cole Tac as well

Bump

Everything sold & paid for. Thank you everyone, sorry to anyone who missed out

Handguard sold pending payment 

For sale: Midwest Industries M-Lok Handguard, which will fit all Marlin 1894 / 1895 & 336 lever action rifles. With fit both models with barrel bands or end caps as I’ll be selling the hand guard adapter as well for use with barrel bands. 

Comes boxed with instructions however I used the supplied thread locker when I installed it so you will have to use your own. 

for more info please see:

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/product-p/mi-marmr.htm

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/product-p/mi-mar336a.htm

Also for sale should you like, a Hopic USA .38/.357 quiver/longbow (black / m-lok) & m-lok forgrip

https://www.hopticusa.com/product-page/lever-gun-longbows-38-357-and-44-mag

SOLD - pending the usual 

Miki - An interesting one, and something that will no doubt has been & will continued to be discussed for sometime more! 
 

I do suppose it comes down to which side you fall down on. I’m not doubting the .22-250, .243 and also including the .223 with the vast degree bullet options available are brilliant. I guess if you have the money, and shooting is your job or livelihood I would totally agree to get a rifle set up (rifle, scope, caliber & bullet selection) totally up for the task in hand and to use it as a surgical tool for that one job intended. 
 

A counter argument would be the whole beware of the man with one gun, he knows how to use it analogy. Although that isn’t me, I still have plenty! When there is such an extremely flexible calibers such as the 6.5CM in most cases they really can do it all. Target, ringing steel, deer & varmints. If your more of an occasional shooter (not professional game keeper etc) there is merits in knowing your one load inside out and having the confidence to engage to whatever distance you feel confident with, including any limitations the weather dictates at the time. 
 

On a personal note I still have my .223 and very much plan on keeping it and using it for the job intended. But I’m going through the process of shooting all my .308 off and retiring that caliber and trying to master my 6.5CM and keeping it simple. 

Couldn’t agree more with VarLR.

Miki - I assume woodlander was suggesting using a Varmint bullet designed for the 6.5CM such as 100gr Sierra HP or 95gr Hornady V-max etc. I disagree, I believe the 6.5CM is the perfect can do all caliber here in the U.K.  
 

Northern Farmer - Are you wanting a can do all load, one bullet / one rifle? Deer, fox and target, plinking etc? Because the 130TGK will no doubt do that all. However if it’s solely going to be a foxing rig then perhaps there is some merit in choosing a faster, flatter varmint bullet? 
 

Mind you, dead is dead. I don’t see Mr fox arguing the toss over the 130gr TGK. 

Well I had success using suggest coal: 2.810” so you might want to start with that. I have attached screen shots of suggested max limits for IMR 4350 & RE 19. 
 

Viht data also uses small primers. You running LRP or SRP brass for your creedmoor? 

The app suggest highest velocities will be achieved using RE 19, which looking at a burn rate chart is similar to Viht N160.  

I worked up a load using RS62 and the Sierra 130 TGK. Have you got an iPhone? 
Download the Sierra app and will give you all the load data needed, with a lot of the powders you mentioned. 
 

Hi Paul, yes it is 👍

Sold subject the usual to the man above 

Spuhr SR-400 rings. 34mm rings / 25mm height. Only 183g in weight. Boxed as new, including levelling kit. SOLD

https://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/spuhr-isms-two-piece-picatinny-mount-34mm-25-4mm

Harris bipod SBRM. 6-9” legs, swivel, notched legs. SOLD

More stuff to be added in the coming days.

This spec page might be more relevant then:

http://www.bushnell.com.hk/all-products/rifle-scopes/elite-tactical/ers-6-24x-50mm-g2dmr,-1mil#

Same as your friend. Off the scope, total adjustment from one end to another is 19mils for whatever reason get an extra click! 
 

Specs on paper say the adjustment range is 80MOA / 23.9 mils. Your actual adjustment will depend on distance at which you set your zero and if your chosen rail and or rings have any built in cant / elevation. 
 

Don’t forget specs on travel is from optical centre, which from about would be roughly 12 mils up & down. When it was on my rifle (.22lr) it had a 20MOA base, zero MOA rings. At its current distance it was zero’ed at its got 15mil left of elevation on the turret. Depending on what calibre, zero distance, rings and base it’s entirely likely you could get the same elevation travel as your friend. If you need more, you can always stack the cant on both the rings and base to lower your optical centre. 
 

Anymore questions, please fire away

Merci 

3 hours ago, Kevgun said:

I Just recently purchased a Tikka CTR 24" 8 twist .223 for this very task, unfortunately i can't use it, i haven't even thought about what to run through it, so if anybody has any ideas on a good place to start for a varminting load please enlighten me.

i have in stock already 

40 gr Vmax

50 gr Vmax

i am undecided what i should get in the 60 - 80 gr range any suggestions ?

Powder wise i have

N120

N135

N140

N160

RS52

i see no problems with Varminting stories, that's why i joined this Sight, i thought the clue was in the name, however it does seem to be more target shooting than varminting, which is a shame,

my take on it is, if you don't like it , don't read it scroll on by, luckily we are not all the same. 

i have received good info and help on here in the past from VarmLR we both run a Tac a1 and he helped with developing a decent load with 139 scenars.

anyway that's me.

 

Kev

 

Another vote for 77gr TMK with N140. Stunningly accurate but wish I had more velocity. Suppose not a huge issue when you know your drops inside out.