Which quad sticks

[rhhudson]

Hi, 

I'm looking at getting some quad sticks after moving from trigger sticks. I have got some of the garden cane diy ones but want some with the flat front rest to enable more adjustment. 

..... budget wise was looking for £100-£130 ish. 

 

Any suggestions as to what is best please. 

 

Thanks

[jcampbellsmith]

4 hours ago, rhhudson said:

Hi, 

I'm looking at getting some quad sticks after moving from trigger sticks. I have got some of the garden cane diy ones but want some with the flat front rest to enable more adjustment. 

..... budget wise was looking for £100-£130 ish. 

 

Any suggestions as to what is best please. 

 

Thanks

Persist with the garden canes. I've shot a few roe deer off the garden canes and also won some silverware. Regards JCS

[sam39]

32 minutes ago, jcampbellsmith said:

Persist with the garden canes. I've shot a few roe deer off the garden canes and also won some silverware. Regards JCS

This👍 

[Mick Miller]

I concur with the above. I've tried a few different sticks over the years and, hands down, my pimped garden canes win every time. I really do need to make a thread on how to construct these when I have time as I think the design beats just about everything else I've seen. Mine have sat out in the garden, resting against a hedge or shed for three years and are still going strong. No rust, no knackered bits. I don't cradle the rifle in the uprights, rather it sits in two webbing slings, the feet aren't screwed together so create a weak spot, they use traction engine belt to create a flexible, all weather hinge, the fittings that retain it also create a spike to maintain a solid hold on the ground and a great pivot point. The washers are shaped and blued to prevent corrosion, stainless fittings and nyloc nuts keep everything tight and rust free.

Best of all, around £40 in materials.

[rhhudson]

8 hours ago, Mick Miller said:

I concur with the above. I've tried a few different sticks over the years and, hands down, my pimped garden canes win every time. I really do need to make a thread on how to construct these when I have time as I think the design beats just about everything else I've seen. Mine have sat out in the garden, resting against a hedge or shed for three years and are still going strong. No rust, no knackered bits. I don't cradle the rifle in the uprights, rather it sits in two webbing slings, the feet aren't screwed together so create a weak spot, they use traction engine belt to create a flexible, all weather hinge, the fittings that retain it also create a spike to maintain a solid hold on the ground and a great pivot point. The washers are shaped and blued to prevent corrosion, stainless fittings and nyloc nuts keep everything tight and rust free.

Best of all, around £40 in materials.

That sound like a slightly more elaborate set..... if you don't mind could you post a picture? 

Thanks

[sam39]

Bungyee cord is good to tie sticks together with. 

[Mick Miller]

Bear in mind these are three years old, left out in all weather, well used...

 

The hinged foot, uses traction belt to provide a flexible, long lasting hinge. Leave one stud long to create a pin for extra grip.

The washers were shaped around a bar, then treated with cold blue to prevent rust (small outer washer wasn't). Nuts are stainless nyloc.

Webbing from an old kitbag stitched to create two slip over cradles. This means you can pan the rifle and the sticks are ambi.

Simple string and webbing loop means you can slide the webbing up/down to set the gap for whichever rifle you're using. This is a photo of the sticks, unsupported but with the peg pushed into the ground.

[rhhudson]

Mick Miller 

Thanks for that. It looks a lot better than the standard garden cane ones I have. I'm going to give it a go. Thanks

[Mick Miller]

The studs I use for the base are half screw, half m6 thread (I don't know what they're called). Washers at the top are essential, they prevent premature wear and provide a rubbing surface for the poles. The webbing can be hand sewn, you'll want a thimble as you need to press quite hard to get the needle though and invariably it pops through and then stabs your fingers otherwise.

When you get the poles there is plastic in either end. Leave this in, the top of your poles will be the pointy end, just cut some of the point off to create a more rounded end, the bottom cut flush and square and pilot drill to accept the stud screw thread. Use a washer to sandwich the belt. If you're a short arse you'll have to cut the poles down. Cut the top and buy some blanking plugs to cap the end and make a soft surface for the webbing.

The belt: Google 'Balata Flat Drive Belting'